roachy
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Posts posted by roachy
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Top job, thanks muchly
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well the one in my defender was a pull out push in job so i assume this is the other type, 3 bearing one. do i need to drop the crank to change it? if so could anyone tell me the torque settings for the main bolts?
Thanks
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Hi guys, i'm attempting a crankshaft oil seal in a 2.25 petrol series 2 and i thought it would be the same as the one in my 90 but it's not. can you give me some pointers?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
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Cheers Steve, i think i'll just have to give it a go and see what happens. got to find a milemarker now.
Did you know Bures pit is open on 19th?
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Right, i've done a little research and from what i can gather the TC locks when a steady speed is reached, then frees up when you accelerate or slow down.
So if i sit it at 2500revs in 3rd on hand throttle, it'll reach a steady speed and the TC will lock up and as long as i dont accelerate or slow down it should do as its supposed to?
Does that make sence or have i missed something?
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Good! Angle grinder out tomorrow, it seems.
LOL, for when all the biggest hammers fail!!
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I did this on my 1984 90, used the manual drop arm on the PAS box. it was VERY difficult to remove, i used a massive puller and hit the drop arm with a large hammer. But yes i can confirm it fits.
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to be honest i'm not really sure how an autobox/TC works so i dont know what will happen, i understand the basics but not exactly how it will behave powering the pump instead of the vehicle as the resistanc will be entirely different. Will it slow down as greater load is added then race when load is removed? I was hoping someone else had tried this.
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Don't worry too much, depending on your oil line sizes you won't need to use anything higher than 3rd at 2000 rpm, as a max, 25cc or 50cc/rev pump? If you rev too high and pump speed goes too high, the pump will cavitate and you hear a lout "whiring" noise, don't panic, just slow the revs down.
What pump you using?
Lara.
Well, the pto adaptor has got a 23cc pump with it but i have happened upon a 33cc parker pump so hoping that will fit, not sure as it has a tapered input shaft with a woodruff key, not sure what the adaptor has.
The pump has max pressure at 2600rpm so hoping for about 1:1 ratio through the box's do you know what ratio 3rd gives?
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Hi everyone, any help/info appreciated,
i've got a 300tdi auto 90 and have just purchased a PTO adaptor and hydro pump to power a milemarker or 2.
my question is how can i tell what speed the pump is running as i don't want to over do it?
Does anyone have any experience with this?
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I'm in the sudbury area of suffolk and all the ones i used to drive have got TRO's on them. i have resorted to going over the border, Essex council dont seem to like spoiling our fun as much. i have an old copy of Total off road that has a great 60mile route planed out starting from just over the border and me and my mates often spend a sunday following the route, takes a good 7hrs with all the stoping for pics.
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yeah, that's what i did wrong, didn't notice the lock nut untill after shownig it my large breaker bar, i suppose breaker is the correct word, ha. i found the lock nut before tryintg the other one. i'll have to turn another one up at work.
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i tried to adjust mine last week and it came off in my socket!
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Only being made in 15"s.
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There are several companys round the world that are developing smart mines. In that they recognise friendly forces and turn themselves off and then when they have passed they re-arm themselves. But we are years from that being 100% reliable.
F*** that!!!! i would not want to walk over that mine no matter who told me it will recognise me and turn off, you gotta have some trust in technology for that!!
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very good off road as they hold you in place, but to be perfectly honest they arent as comfy as the standards, also they make it harder to get in and out as theres not as much room between the bolster and the steering wheel, it's ok once your in but i think im gonna go for a smaller wheel. i'll take some pics in the week and post them up for you.
John
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Peter,
I have fitted a similar set of reclining bucket seats to my truck cab with success but a few problems, from memory the cobra's are fairly wide (mine are cheap replica ones and are a bit smaller), you will find that it's tight getting them in, the seat back is quite wide where your shoulders are and will touch the B pillar and trap the seatbelt, if you move the seat inwards you might find the steering wheel isn't in front of you. also you need to mount the seat as far forward as possible and with the seat leaned as far back as possible your still very upright, although mine is a truck cab and the seat hits the rear window, i dont know how much room you have before the bulkhead.
I'll take some pics of mine and post them up if you want? and you can see how tight it is, obviously anything's possible but you might want to go shoping with a tapemeasure and just see where you will end up sitting.
Hope that helps
John
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Horray, it works!! i drove it home today!!!
i got down the workshop this morning and i thought i'd start by bleeding the slave cylinder as that was the easiest option and it worked, i don't quite know how but the system somehow got some air in it?????
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i've given up for today, i'll take the slave off tomorrow and see what's up, i reckon if i just disconnect the hoses i can move the engine forward enough to see whats going on, it's sssssooooo deflating as i've been working night shifts and then coming home at 6am, sleeping 2hrs then down the workshop to sort the landy out. as so excited when it fired up at the prospect of being able to get some sleep again! oh well it'll all be worth it when it's done.
Steve, bures is looking doubtfull
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i put a brake pipe clamp on the flex and it went rock solid so master cylinder is ok. the thing is i didn't change the slave cyl and it was fine when i started which makes me think it's something i've done, i take it there's no adjustment? could i have let something fall out without noticing? i just cant understand it, i didnt change anything on the gearbox end except the release bearing and thats was just one off one on.
i wouldn't have this trouble if i'd put the auto in!
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i finnished my 300tdi conversion today, fired it up great, ran fine, tried to move it and the clutch pedal goes streight to the floor no effort. it's not disengaging, what have or haven't i done? i did replace the clutch and release bearing. please tell me i don't have to take it all apart again?
any help muchly appreciated
Thanks
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cheers for the advice fellas, i had heard that auto's were awesome off road but also that many people prefered a manual, as i already have the auto box i may aswell give it a go later in the year, i can always change it if i don't like it.
steve are you going to bures on the 13th? if my truck's finnished by then i'll probably make an apperance, see if i can break it, lol. i've only been there once, had to use the old tow rope a few times, before it snaped then had to enlist the assistance of the nearest unimog. Nothing like getting muddy on the weekend!!!
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sorry fellas i don't want to sell it yet as i still might put it in, if i change my mind you'll be the first to know.
JST i have heard mixed arguments for and against the auto, (that was the main reason for this thread but not many responses) for ease of fitment i just kept my lt77 for now but im not sure how good that box is. i'm probably going to swap it in the next year either for the auto or an R380 so still need to decide.
steve, i was also worried wether the starter would have enough grunt but the 300 one had a different gear so wouldn't work with the flywheel, anyway i turned it over yesterday and it seems fine, yey! also the flywheel is heavy as f**k so it should be fine, mabey a few grams difference but not enough to affect the running of it. where abouts in suffolk? im just outside Sudbury, do you get over Bures pits much?
please helpppp.. disco 200tdi clutch...
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
i had a similar problem on my 90, turned out to be a hole in the clutch pipe near the bulkhead, a jubilee clip had rubbed it through.