Jason
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Posts posted by Jason
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Do the warning lights on the dash illuminate when the ignition switch is at position 2 and then go off when you try to start? If so, could be a faulty ignition switch.
Some more specific details would be useful.
Everything lights up as normal when starting, when it dies there are no warning lights or anything. When you turn the ignition its completly dead, after about 5 mins it starts again as normal
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With just under 2 weeks until the truck goes into a container to India it has started playing up
Whilst driving home last night the engine just cut out, after a few minutes it started again. Same thing this morning, its as though I have turned off the engine and taken the keys out of the ignition. When you turn the key in the ignition its completly dead
Just been to the local garage and they can't do anything for at least a week
Anyone experienced this problem before ?
I have checked the ECU to see if there is any oil but it all looks ok
If I can't get it sorted it looks like the trip to India is off
Its a 2001 TD5
Thxs
Jason
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I presume these just work by making the loop only just big enough to fit over the knot?
It doesn't look all that difficult just to make one - even with my lousy knot-tying abilities!
Si
Yep thats exactly how they work
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Must admit after the shock of the cost of the black ones I forgot to ask the price of the other ones.
Will go back later and report back.
Will be interesting to see how much the 2,000 and 5,000 kgs ones are. Although the guy did say that there was about an hours labour in making a black one. Can't see how the labour costs will vary dramatically on the lighter ones though.
Regards
Leeds
The yellow ones are rated at 2500kgs, the price we paid including shipping was about 30Euro's
I have used mine on a regular basis and they are fine, I tend to use 2 on the hook at the same time to spread the load
Jason
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I have just replaced the shocks and springs on my 90
Opted for the same springs as you and bought the Super Gaz shocks from Britpart. Only been on a month but I'm very pleased with them
They have taken some stick out in the desert and hold up very well, the set up works very well when the truck is loaded up, bit of a bone shacker when its empty though
Jason
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Jason,
We have one in Musaffah, everything comes from Sharjah, they don't stock anything here, and they gentlemen have a very limited understanding of english, if you take the part #'s in, it's a lot easier. I have mates I work with going to the uk all the time on leave (we do a 56/28 day work/leave rotation) I have picked up a few items on ebay etc. My rebuild is coming along. What type of Landy are you driving in Dubai?
Cheers,
Tracy
Fair enough, know what you mean about not speaking English
I drive the devils engine according to some, TD5 90, personally I love it, had a few issues but then it is a landie
Do you ever get up to Dubai?If you do let me know there are a few of us who are out in the sand most weekends
Have a look at www.me4x4.com, local club with plenty of knowledgeable guys
Jason
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Like the idea of the mech lock, bit pricey though for what I want, disclock is good as well but i'd expect the shipping cost to get it here rules it out
Looks like it going to be the FIA switch or possibly a switch cutting the live feed to the fuel pump
Cheers
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Thanks for the info, I'm in the middle east, so I'll have to wait until I can get a couple of new seals via mail order!
Cheers,
Tracy
would that be paddock, britpart, etc for after market spares?
Tracy
Have you tried Gulf Stars in Sharjah, they seem to carry most parts and are reasonably priced
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Taking my truck into India for 3 weeks and need a way of effectively immobilising it
Was thinking a fitting a battery immobiliser switch, will this work? Or does the ECU need a permanent live feed
Any other ideas?
I don't want to activate the LR immobiliser, just in case
Cheers
Jason
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TD5 intercoolers to tend to crack, though that is fixable with alloy solder (we just bought some, and it works on radiators so should be ok on an intercooler).
The intercooler is only about 12 months old, so hopefully not cracked
Obviously a leak of some sort but may be worth checking/disabling EGR if fitted, as that produces a lot of the above sort of gunge....EGR was removed about 6 months ago
Been having a look under the bonnet today and it does not look to complicated to take both the rad and intercooler out. Usually put the car into a garage but going to tackle this one, anything I should be aware of ?
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Cheers Western I'll have a go and removal and cleaning at the weekend
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Noticed this today at the botteom of the rad, it has also blown up between the rad and intercooler and with the help of sand has clogged everything up
Picture taken with front of vehicle with grille removed
On further investigation I found the inside of the intercooler hoses to be covered in black gunge
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what the problem could be
Cheers
Jason
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looks more like brown laning......
where was that at? looks "warm" to say the least.
Jas
Tad on the warm side, about 40 degrees at lunchtime today, it was 24degrees at 0600am this morning
Pic was taken in an area called Hameen in the UAE.
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Green lanning Middle East style, and absolutely no water of any kind
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Jason,
I had the same problem, I think right before leaving for Cheeze land. There might even be a post arround describing it.
I strongly beleive that the problem was caused by the mechanics simply not knowing much about the TD5. All TD5 owners ought to band together and negiotiate with a garage to train someone on TD5 in exchange for your collective continued patronage.
I took it into AAA for a clutch. I forget the chronology but they couldn't start it because in their view the cranking sensor failed. New sensor was put in and then when I came to pick it up they couldn't start it. I had them do the purge right infront of me. Didn't work. They put more diesel in purged and it didn't work.
Long story short they jetted of to GS in Sharjah before closing, got a new fuel pump and eventually all was ok. I was very suspicous that the faiures were on their end. To their credit they did work through the night and on friday to fix it and didn't charge me for the labor.
Sharkey was kind enough to pick me up when the car wasn't ready so he might provide some weight in any argument if you used the same people.
Let us know the resolution and finnaly make sure they get it done before Eid!
Best,
Jason
Good to hear from you mate, I remembered you having a similar problem. I mentioned this today and it was brushed off, i think the statement went something along the lines of" Its a design fault"
Managed to get a fuel pump from Gulf spares in the end 450chips compared to 1850 for the 110 thats buggered as well
I will wait until Saturday morning, when hopefully they have fixed it before I start "negotiating"
Did you sell yours in the end?
Good idea about the TD5 mechanic but I don't think even Al Tayer have got any qualified guys. You have given me an idea, start my own Landie garage, find someone who knows his stuff and bingo
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Most Td5s (all except the very early ones) have an auto bleeding function, put the ignition on and pump the pedal to the floor and back 5 times the engine warning light will start flashing, it will run the purge cycle of 30 seconds on 5 seconds off 30 seconds on 5 seconds off, I think it does this 6 times then as soon as the light stops flashing, put the pedal to the floor and crank it till it starts. I think only the early 99MY vehicles don't have this function built in.
If there is fuel in the tank it will not affect the fuel pump, but if it is running dry then it will die fairly quickly! But only if the tank is completely empty, I'm assuming if it won't start they will have checked to see if there is any fuel in it.......
Thats the 1st thing I looked at when I went there this afternoon, as I had filled it up before I took it in
I was down at the garage for about 3 hrs this afternoon but they just could nt get it going, there just does nt seem to be much pressure from the fuel line. Had to bite the bullet and try and find a new fuel pump
Funny thing is though they had another TD5 in for a service and it developed the same problem
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Jason I serviced mine last week, and yep that about sums it up, leave the ignition on for a couple of minutes then turn it off, repeat this a few time and you should be away, the fuel pump will run a bit louder for a while until the air is entirely purged, I have heard of it taking up to a couple of days for the sound of the fuel pump to get back to normal, mine was about 1/2 hr, then the next morning it did`nt want to start first time, so went thru the purging procudure again and then it ran perfectly and still is.
Another thing to check is the flow sensor in the air cleaner there are a couple of sensors here, if they changed the air filter they might have left one of the plugs off.
Must say I am glad I do my own servicing, as I don`t trust these idiots out here.
Cheers for the quick response
I have sent them a copy of the purge procedure from the workshop manual
Cols when I see you I will tell you whch garage
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Just recieved a call fom the garage who are servicing my TD5
They have changed the fuel filter and now it will not start, it fires up then dies
They don't know what to do, anyone got any pointers
Would they have to follow the same start up procedure as if I had run out of fuel? And if they had not would that bugger up the fuel pump?
Funny thing is they have 2 TD5's with the same problem
Cheers
Jason
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Hello All, I,ve got a blanking plate and a new air intake hose for my 300tdi and started to remove the egr valve, anyone got any tips on how to remove the alan screws that hold the thing on the exhaust manifold. i've tried a normal alan key but i think it's gonna break before anything moves, i've also got a set of socket alan screws but cant get them in for the egr valve in the way. any ideas? B)
I had a similar problem with my TD5, plenty of WD40 and a big hammer, it took a while but it worked
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Jason.... I'll tell yer what.......
Do you want to try my Disco rims and 265 BFG's on the 90 for a weekend? I can put my Wolf Rims on the Disco.
If you like them..... you take me out on a session in Dubai.
If you don't like them......you take me out on a session in Dubai.
Howzat sound?
Let me know and we'll arrange a session with the ratchet gun and axle stands.
Streaky
That sounds like a win/win situation............................................for you, know where's the gas cooker gone
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First of all noone as far as I know asked Les to make this post. He or anybody else posts on here becasue they want to and as far as I aware there is no rule that anyone who reads them should show gratitude or otherwise.
If you take a look at the topics on this forum, they are about radical and non standard modifiction to trucks, namely suspension, winches, roll cage etc: stuff that is well beyond the Haynes manual one spanneer level and that is what make the forum worthwhile. So a post about something basic like this is almost taking the mick. Come on, what would your reaction be if I posted inbstrucxtions on how to pump up a tyre or which end of a hammer to hold before whacking something?
Just because I know how to change the oil on a car does not mean I am all knowing; I didn't claim to be. If people decide not to answer any of my posts, then so be it.
Anyway Les is a big boy, I'm sure he'll get over it; I'll refrain from posting to the beginner's maintenance posts in the future.
Everyone has got to start somewhere
If someone takes the time to post something like this, if you feel it is beneath you, then don't post a reply
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Didn't look very far then... We did.
Thats probably because you bought everything that I wanted
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i was wondering if any of you guys could help me out. after the whole mishap before, i want to find a way (if possible) to water proof my ECU. would it over heat it? does it need cooling? is there some kind of extension wiring kit so i can wire into my car under the seat? any suggestions would be great
thanx
adam
Adam
You can buy an extension to move your ECU from under your seat and connect it higher up, the other option is to waterproof the area under the seat where the ECU sits, a few people have dons this
I am sure someone will be along with more info, I don't have to waterproof things, not much rain and water where I play
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And was that with just the standard 90 battery?
If so that's not too bad at all for my needs, shouldn't need to go more than a day or two without recharging batteries and I will have one (or maybe two) big auxillary batteries on a split charge.
Aye an Engel would be nice, but ££££
Mark
If you are coming over for the DC this year have a look in ACE hardware.They are selling WAECO and they are very cheap
I am going to buy one at the weekend, I'll let you know what the prices are like, from memory the CF35 was about 100gbp
Jason
Britpart Super Gaz Shock Absorbers
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yep have them on my 90 and they have taken some abuse, as Streaky says the ride is a bit harsh when empty but alot of thats got to do with having heavy duty springs on the rear, I'm very pleased with them