pinkbeef
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Posts posted by pinkbeef
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I just changed the cooling fan on my Disco 1 300 TDI, easyist mod Ive ever dune. wish I had documented it but did not.
just one question what is the opening tempture of the thermistate when fitted to the raditor oil cooler side half way up.
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got this from RAVE cd
sorry forget that i just read the post right, DOHH
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£500.00 is far too much, toad and vipers cost around £150.00, as for fitting its all just maths. Im more intrested in any ill effects if any, from fitting a off the shelf system.
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I have a Disco 1, M Reg.
No key fob for the alarm, and the central locking is playing up.
Question: should I repair the alarm system or replace it with a new alarm system.
If I strip out the components of the original system, to allow me to use the existing wiring with a new system. Will this create any known problems.
If I do this I want to replace the immobilizer, alarm system, door actuators.
I know my Freebie was a real pig to deal with, can I look forward to another day of despair.
Doc.
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this is some thing that i too have been thinking about as my dads shougun has a fan fitted to it's intercooler
so i've been looking out for a fan but there are not many 7"fans about.
next time your passing a motorcycle shop have a look at the rad fans.
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A.....The engine will idle with RPM unstable. But any load to the engine (like moving in 1st gear) will stall it.
Forget about carrying a spare plug and trying for a decent spark. if it starts and ticks over it will have a decent spark.
The next time you feel the problem starting, pull into a garage and top up the car with petrol and start driving again. I know this sounds dumb but please try this.
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yer but what i mean is if the coil pack is of the type which has ignition amplifiers onboard, they are often bolted to the engine block as a heatsink.
The packs generate heat, and this heat is dissipated into the engine block.
If you unbolt the pack from the engine, then yes the engine will no longer heat the pack up, but the pack will continue to heat itself up, and could quickly exceed its design operating temperature and die as you've basically removed its heatsink.
Not saying it will definitely happen in this particular case, but its something to bear in mind.
It's a basic coil pack, no heat sink required. there is only 2 ways for the home mech to test the coil for impedance breakdown under heat stress, replace the coil with another, or place the coil in a place that's cooler than where it is now. I would tie it back away from the head. that said I dont think it is the coil now, but i would still test it just to get it off the list.
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Firstly; the cable ties have been used to replace the small plastic clip that was used, dont worry about it, cable ties do a better job. but as your down there check the bracket, they tend to rust badly.
Secondly; I see from the picture, you have the thermostate mod fitted to the car. check to ensure the rear thermostate was removed (some people leave then in, big mistake).
When you get the gasket off, if its the MLF type, get the head gas tested it may be a case that the headgasket was renewed, but the head is cracked.
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Hello.
Still a question.
I want to install the PRRT kit on my Freelander . I bought the kit Land Rover as seen on this subject:
http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery2/main.ph...2_itemId=559552
But I do not understand why the gentleman who is the subject autor changed his kit?
Is this the mounting for a Freelander?
Can someone tell me how my mechanic must install my kit correctly ?
Thank you for your help. JF
Sorry for my English, using a traducer.
If you have a Freelander 1.8, do not modify the kit. just fit it on.
The kit was made to fit the Freelander 1.8.
I have fitted it to my Freelander, it works OK.
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Just because it's a freelander I don't think any fault that pops up is automatically the head gasket
You need to think about things that could be affected by heat / vibration and can cause the running problems, I would bet on something electrical.
I agree with you, people just dont want to think further than the head gasket. "Oh Ive got a flat tyre, that will be the head gasket then". Its carp, and very annoying.
Q does the enging compleatly stall, or will it tick over if allowed to after 3 hours.
Q can you start the enging after it has stalled, before it coolse down.
check the plugs, HT leads, dist cap, unbolt the coil from the head and tie it back away from the head, carry a spare plug with you, next time it stalls, pop one of the leads off shove the plug in it and see if it has a good spark.
Id go with a heating problum, coils or a sensor of some sort.
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I have an OBD II reader and the softwear, but it wont connect, the fault im getting is the car is not OBD II compliant, which is why i need to know which scanner i should purchase.
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You need to check the starter motor works first;
if you look at the starter motor from the near side ( passenger side) of the engine compartment, you get a good view of the starter motor and the solenoid attached to it.
You will see a thick (8mm) red cable, which runs from the battery to the solenoid.
And a thin (1mm) red cable which comes from the ignition switch (via the ecu).
Firstly give the thin wire a little wiggle (don't break it), then try to start the car again, sometimes you get water into that connection which breaks the connection. If that does not work continue.
Remove the small red cable, it just pulls off, but is designed not to be easy to pull off.
Once you have removed the thin cable, ensure the ignition is turned off and the car is not in gear and run a cable from the battery live terminal + to the connector on the solenoid, (not the thin wire) where you pulled off the cable.
If the starter motor turns both the solenoid and the starter motor is working, and your problem lies elsewhere. If not continue.
The thick red wire is connected to the starter motor by a bolted connection into the solenoid , next to this connection is a second bolted connection which carries the current into the starter motor windings.
Get a piece of metal, or a pair of pliers and connect both the bolts together (which is what the solenoid does) you will get a big spark but don't be alarmed this is normal. If the starter motor turns, your problem is the solenoid . If the starter motor does not turn its the starter motor itself.
EDIT:
by the time i wrote this the problem had been sorted, typical.
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does anyone know which fault code reader, I should buy for a freelander 1 1999. Or where the type of dieanostic device I have on the car would be found.
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Keyfob Battery needs replacing, explosive device under car needs removing, or radio tuned into Sputnik.
word count 15.
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Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, that just spoilt my buzz,
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Ok,
The final result is in and it has now passed the MOT with no faults.
So it looks like the head was cracked, as the steam did clear up soon after fitting the reconditioned head.
All in all now I know what im looking for, the 1.8 petrol head gasket change is not that bad.
Next time ill just follow this plan:
1 Clean engine.
2 Remove head and clean mating surfaces.
3 Check hight of liners, if low in the block just replace engine. GO TO 10.
4 Have head tested for cracks, if cracked or damaged replace. Otherwise recondition the head.
5 Use break cleaner between piston and liner and vibrate the piston in the liner, to losean off any stuck rings which may be gummed up with oil/water mix.
6 Remove sump clean out old oil, renew oil filter and oil. renew the oil rail, replace sump.
7 Renew water pump remove rear thermostat, replace with thermostat mod.
8 Renew timing belt
9 Renew head gasket with the steel shim type, replace plastic dowells with metal ones, use new head bolts if required.
10 Finished.
A bit overkill, but for the extra cost, "I think well worth it".
A big "THANK YOU" to all for the input and answers.
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You may want to think about changing the oil rail about £30.00 and also get the thermastate mod from Land Rover £65.00.
whilst you have the sump of to change the oil rail, you will be able to clean all the carp oil/water mix in it. the thermistate mod is a must, in my view.
Oh yer take the back box off and cook it over a low flame to evaparate all the water in it, or you will be blowing steam out for days.
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Join the RAC, Red Flag or AA.
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Take the log book and your driving licince into any Land Rover Dealership and They will supply you with the code. While your there get the immobiliser reset code.
just hope the radio was not changed at some time, as the code will be differant.
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Ok so i got some images of the block and new gasket.
A cleaned block ready for the gasket
you can see the slight profile of the sleeve above the block
top front marker on gasket
head saver shim in place
now this is worrying, you can see the sleeve is not fully covered by the headgasket
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Stuck some radweld in it and ran it for a couple of hours, when i pull the head off tomorrow ill be able to see if the gasket was breached.
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Could be water in the zorst, as has been said it'll take a while to clear out especially with the FL backbox being huge and right on the end of the system, idling probably won't do it - a good motorway blast would help. Could also be inlet manifold O-rings as those leak into the intake tract.
As Dave Andrews said to me, they're not bad engines, they're good engines built badly
Im a bit worried about taking her down a motorway all the steam coming out the exhaust would creat a problem for other motorway users. well it worth a try ill leave it till early in the morning. Wifeys going to be real Mildly miffed when i phone her up from Corley services, asking for a lift home.
Im going to get my eddioscope from work shove it down the plug holes and see if i can capture some picks for you lot see what you thing of the bores.
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OK so i warmed it up, 15 mins to allow the frost to be melted from the front screen.
Then I took it down the road (500 yards), and the temp gauge dropped to 0 from halfway up the dial. at which point the steam stopped from the exhaust (not totally, but was reduced to a very small amount). Anyone got any idears.
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It might not be a pile of carp, you just need a little extra patience. Would it be better to exercise a bit of patience, or bung another pile of money at it when you may not need to?
Les.
Im going to start it up now, and when I get up tomorrow see if its still blowing white smoke or worse. ill drain the tank and only put in 1gallon of petrol to ensure it wont run for too long.
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Did you leave the gasket to settle for a couple of hours?
With the BGA gaskets we sell for them, they have an instruction sheet that reads along the lines of ;
reassemble, run engine to temp, then leave to cool completely with the bonnet up before retorquing the bolts. We have had one of the new gaskets fail because of this procedure not being followed. (Can't check exact wording, as i would have to split a gasket open)
I know of a good 1.8 K series head with valves if you need one....
I use the same procedure for any engine, run up to operating temp, cool down. re torque (if the torque is measured in lbs.). With the K engine the torque applied to the head bolts is measured in degrees so retorqing is not an option.
I've never had a cracked head before, which would explain why I've has such a disastrous time diagnosing it. Im looking for a head so have PM you.
Electric fan disco 1 300
in Discovery Forum
Posted
No, I mean what engine tempreture should the fan be set to switch on.