Young bobtail Rhys
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Posts posted by Young bobtail Rhys
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good luck with that
Is that a no go with that then?
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The vintage of these engines is much before Crazy-Looms that you find in new cars today.
Even when they have immobilisers, its usually a case of collecting the transponder and 3 or 4 wires and joining them up to the ECU harness.
I'd bet you wouldnt need much more than 10 wires to get the motor running, and thats including things like tacho and coolant temp outputs.
The guy thats linked above should be your first port of call, perhaps he can summarise the wires required for you!
The only thing is that I want to run the later 1uzfe engine, (1997 to 2000) as they have the variable valve timing and an extra 30bhp or so. Not sure if this engine is more of a pain as most people fit the pre vvt motor as it is more readily available and maybe simpler???
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Rhys, There's a guy over on LRO forum who stuck one of these in a RRC, apparently using the stock ECU it was just a couple of wires to get it going....
I personally wouldn't bother with MS for this, as it's a stock engine.
In fact, here's the link: http://www.lro.com/f...der=asc&start=0
If you hate wiring, then you won't like doing a MS install
*edit* Lotsa stuff here: http://www.lextreme.com/misc.html
Thanks very much for the info. I will try and get in contact with him over the weekend and see what happens. As the engine is going into a racer then the wiring can be minimal.
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I don't do wiring, hate it. The problem for me is finding someone with the time and knowhow of making the loom fit my application (comp safari) and then mapping the ecu to the spec that I will run the engine. Any volunteers?
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Okay......
Maybe a no brainer but it has been done, however would any of you guys be able to megasquirt a 1uz-fe vvt for me?
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In the process of changing my engine from a 1988 3.5efi (with zf auto gb) to a 4.2 from a 1993 lse. Now will the 4.2 fit straight onto the old 3.5 gearbox or is the bellhousing different to the hp22 gearbox from the lse to the point where it won't bolt straight on?
TIA
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You can get some 2" spring spacers for them including the air suspension model from ebay
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Right,
Believe it or not I have fixed the "problem"
I drained out the diesel in the tank and put some petrol back in along with a new set of plugs
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I am running 35/11.5 simex and have a 70mm lift, and a 50mm arch kit. You would need to fit a 50mm arch kit along with some extra backspacing to get your tyres to clear everything. I would say around 3.5" to 4" backspacing to get the 34's to clear.
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Simple, 70mm spring lift and 50mm arches. Done
All you need is to work out the correct backspacing on your wheels and they will go on a treat
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Ok thanks Nige, very helpful
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Nope, not measured.
How would you go about doing that?
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All fuel is fine, lots of pressure right upto the plenum, and plug leads are all in order!
I think this engine has hads its time now, I have a 30,000 mile 4.2 with gearbox sitting here so rather than spend any money on it, I will just remove it and put the 4.2 in. I was just hoping it would be a simpler job rather than internal parts so I could use her for a little longer as I wasn't planning to put the other engine in for a little while.
Thanks though chaps, appreciate it
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..........and there is still no go, I think technically and mechanically its knackered
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I will try that resistor pack now Nige
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Hmmmmm........
I think as now we are looking within the internal components of the engine I will just whip that engine out and wack in me 4.2.
Thanks for the info though
I may run a compression test though to see what comes up through that
Any more info is still helpful thank you
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How will I be able to test if the valves are all opening?
If they aren't, then it looks like my 4.2 will be going in sooner than I thought but I was on to do a challenge this weekend
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Right, not sure really where to start so here's the problem
ATM it won't start (3.5efi) but when it did, it started on about 4cyl, was blowing back through the air filter and pumping pure blue smoke out of the exhaust.
Things that work on it:
-Managment system
-Fuel pump
-Spark plugs, dizzy coil etc.
One of the problems is that the fuel is only getting as far as the plenum and not really giving the plugs a good soaking and flooding up. The other is the fact that some of the smoke was a little white tonight when it suddenly decided to start. So could be a head gasket? But why all the blue smoke and lack of fuel? Also the plugs seem to have oil on them and when I removed the air flow meter and pipe, both the plenum inlet and pipe was full of some kind of oil mixed with a bit of petrol guey gunk.
All seems strange to me as it was running ok the day before, (albeit a bit lumpy and a pain to start) but no signs of sudden death
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers
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Yep it is sorn and has been for about 2 years now, just looks pants without some plates
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The deep hawse is only when you need to clear a protruding object that is in the line of you winch rope?
I have got them because I like them, no other reason
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They are both scorpion racing, about 45-50mm deep
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I have been asked by a few people on here for some pics of the recent work carried out on my bobtail. The cage is p+p 51mm CDS and obviously an 8274 on the front and (eventually) a TDS 9.5 in the back.
Unfortunately it is not finished due to me wanting to do a challenge soon so still to be done is:
-Rock/tree sliders
-Rear storage, i.e waffles etc.
-Ground anchor mount for the front
-4.2 rover v8 with hp22 gearbox to go in
-Change the seats for a set of bucket seats as the roll cage restricts how far the seats go back
-Locate a spare wheel in the back somehow
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My uncle has just scrapped his soft dash.......was off roaded for about 18 months then decided no more.
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Thank you Mr Warne!
However, can I run my manual difflock on the back of that or do I need to run the viscous that is already on it?
Swapping Radius Arms
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
If you are going castor corrected then yes do one at a time but undo the front bolt from the opposite side to allow the axle to rotate but still remain in position and then use a small jack to help get them in and the bolt holes in line with the axle
HTH