B reg 90
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Posts posted by B reg 90
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Have you considered checking the gears for cracks with dye penetrant?
NDT Test Kit | Weld Defect Dye Pen Kit | Cleaner, Dye Pen & Developer (tbws.co.uk)
Dead easy to use and will give you a much better indication than you can see with eyesight. Ideally you would use fluorescent DPI, the rattle can basic version will do for your task.
Adrian
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Gazzer,
looked at one of those clamshell pullers before and couldn’t quite justify one.
what’s your thoughts on them?
which one did you buy?
apologies for the thread hijack.
adrian
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It's in the chassis. No one will be able to tell what year the back tub is (85' or 86!) You own all the parts.
In the words of Tom Cruse in top gun - 'don't think, do'.
Adrian
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6 hours ago, Anderzander said:
I’m in one of those chains of jobs …
to use the lathe I need to put a socket and a light in, before I do that I need to do some work on the roof, before I can do that I need to move a load of wood that’s stored against the roof, to move the wood I need to sort another garage out so I can put it in there, if I’m putting it in there then whilst the stuffs out I should really put the old stable mats in I got hold of ….
Does it work like this for everybody ?!
The mats were grim - so dirty and bacteria ridden that they were giving the horses bad feet …
however now I have that rather splendid steam cleaner … they’ve come up great.
Very nice to have under foot and insulate things from the cold.I’ve a couple more to go under the series one. My god they are heavy though.
Nice looking canoe!
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On 8/25/2023 at 8:35 PM, De Ranged said:
That indicator light is a good idea if its obvious, my answer because I have the compressor in a corner as far from me as possible (for clean air) was to run a 15amp extension lead to a plug next to the door and wire a switch so when I turn the lights on and off compressor is part of the routine
If your interested a couple of extra channels "Make it Kustom" very good with teaching sheetmetal and "Mark Presling" retired teacher who does shed stuff both put out regular content
And I already watch both those channels! My earlier point is reinforced!
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On 8/24/2023 at 3:55 PM, steve200TDi said:
Oh yes, got to love a bit of inheritance machining!
Steve
You can tell quite a bit by the utube channels someone watches! There seems to be great commonality among Land Rover enthusiasts.
inheritance machining is excellent.
I also like cutting edge engineering
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8 hours ago, muzaz said:
Not exactely what you need, I built a fixed over head gantry crane out of 100x50x5 i beam to take out the engine. One advice I'll give you regarding the carriage, if its not geared it will want to centre itself when under load. So the gantry needs to be level.
Carriages are u channel with bearing rollers.
Nice effort!
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The push bender shown will bend roll cage tube. BUT the tube will flatten slightly. I remember there being an allowable flattening ratio in UK MSA regs. When I made my roll cage with one of those benders I was slightly the worng side of the ratio limit. However the scrutineer was 'helpful' as he liked the quality of the rest of the cage.
So it will 'work' and for the reported price above they are good value. But don't assume you will automatically pass formal scrutineering if that is in your plans.
Adrian
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Nice work!
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Superb effort. That’s not a simple job to do right
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Looks superb. But I don't like to think about the cost - another thing making cars stupidly expensive to maintain,......
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Make it bigger!!!!
Planning is not that big an expense (£650 + £500 for your 2 moths extra storage) in the the grand scheme of things. You will never regret it being bigger, but will always curse it being too small for the want of £1150.
After that I'd look at insulation, good lighting and security. Depends on what your area is like, but it will look like a nice big target to agricultural thieves. Steel door 6mm thick with reinforced hinges, make sure that the walls don't end at head height so the gits can peal back the metal skin and just climb in, secure storage for your tools (especially the ones the f**kers can use to cut the 6mm door open from the inside). The finish off with an alarm/camera system.
Adrian
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Corrosion on the cylinder walls? Try using a mini snake camera to have a look through the injector opening.
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On 12/15/2022 at 10:40 AM, bishbosh said:
I can't believe nobody has suggested just loosening the nut and going for a drive.......
Once came back from Tom's farm in wales with a loose steering box arm that developed mid event. We stopped every 20 miles or so to re tighten the bugger. Seem to remember not having a big enough socket, so chiseling the nut around on the hard shoulder of the motorway....
Obviously I would not do that these days.....
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Interested in your rear 4 link set up. How have you done the top links as the chassis end to get enough link angle?
Looks a top job by the way.Adrian
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4 hours ago, Daan said:
Yes, I can back drive the winch by hand, so I f try to rotate the drum, the shaft spins. To make it legal for international comps, there is a disc brake on the winch shaft, which is on a one way sprag clutch; So the caliper is always on, but it only works when the winch spools out. However, in reality, I hardly ever used this.
The self brake problem is over rated, I think. On the last event I did in Wales I had this conversation the evening before it started, and there was a punch on top of a vertical hill. The consensus was that it you cannot do it with your winch and everyone came over when I attempted it. I did the usual; winch up with the wheels assisting to get me up. At the top, when I was near the punch, press the clutch and the brake pedal. It stopped. What people don't seem to grasp is that if you apply the footbrake when drive assisting, there is connection between the winch and the wheels. So even if the wheels would not be able to hold the car, the winch is now also braked via the prop shaft being held by the rest of the drivetrain.
So we took the punch, selected reverse, put the transfer box in neutral, and did a controlled decent on the winch via engine braking. No drama.
I always use wheel assist when self recovery winching; with the 9:1 ratio, the speed of the wheels is around a factor 6x the speed of the winch. Speeding up the winch to wheel speed would effectively mean winchng in 5th gear which would give me very little control. Right now, it is 1st gear for controlled, heavy pulls, and second gear for fast light winchng.
As Toenden pointed out, you would use wheel assist at tickover, 1st low, and the engine cannot even deliver the power to the winch to do this.
To me, the winch assist problem does not exist; even in in Russia in the swamps, where it was predicted the wheel assist would not work due to too much wheel spin, i never had a problem with it. Once you break through the top cover of the swamp, you are unlikely to get it back on top.
I think for an 8 day winch event with very big pulls, it eventually comes down to reliability of the winch.
In Croatia, on the last day there were 8 cars at the start line (from 32 starters). Majority of cars had retired due to failed gearboxes (automatic) and burn out winches. Even hydraulic winches I have seen failing in this kind of event. The one I know of to get hydraulics winches to work for a long prolonged time is Jez.
So to me, what I have works, and I have no intention of changing it.
Daan
Daan,
I should have clarified that the comment was aimed at hydraulic winches where the overrun issue can cause cavitation in the winch motor.
It’s not an issue on a mechanically driven winchagree with you observations on auto boxes and electric winches
Adrian
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WRT worm drives being one way or self braking.
They can be but it depends on the gear ratio and if they are stationary or turning.Stationary - the lower the gear ratio the more likely it will spin if loaded in reverse (load on winch line, no drive to winch). This doesn’t happen on a H14 (48:1 ratio), but might on Daan’s 9:1 winch
Under load - a worm gear is very unusual in that it has a sliding motion between the gears. All other gears have a rotating motion. The sliding means that when stationary the oil ‘squeezes’ out and you get high friction between the metal surfaces. Start turning the gear set ( with a reverse load, I.e hanging you 4x4 off the winch), then oil gets between the gears as they start turning, friction goes down and the gears will transfer load in reverse.
I have done the gear calc for an H14 - they are only self braking in reverse under light reverse load. They will not self brake under heavy load.hope this is of interest
adrian
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The other consideration is what your desired winch performance is. The 'specification' for my 'not yet finished' system was borne from a discussion on the way home from a TAY trophy event in either 2005 or 2006. We had come second (with Bob Seaman and John Jennings), heavily assisted by my superwinch 525 PTO winch. We think we did 60 winches per day on the 2 day event. I used to run that winch in 5th gear as fast as I could - It was way faster than an 8274 and would do high speed full load pulls. It did however have a number of disadvantages like, high drive shaft vibration, glacial pay out speed (fixed with an air operated freespool) and a total inability to winch and drive at roughly the same speed - the wheels would spin at > 3 x winch speed in low 1st. The later was the killer. No issues if you are in the Argyll forest and have 100's of trees to winch from but bugger all use if you have limited anchor points. We kind of fixed that by building a massive ground anchor. But still it was fundamentally limiting.
So, I decided I wanted 8274 unloaded speeds at full load on the bottom wrap. That means 45 - 50 HP to the winch.
Once you start looking at this you realize that with an electric winch you just tickle the throttle to drive the wheels and all the winch power comes from the batteries. If you want a hydraulic system you need to be revving the engine, to say 1500 rpm, to get the torque required to drive the wheels and put 50 HP to your winch. However, the 1500 rpm engine speed increases the winch speed required too match the wheel speed no matter what diff ratio you go for. Basically, the drive train gearing is OOM 3x too high to allow you to drive the wheels at the same speed as the winch - you need an Ashcroft underdrive to make this work. These days maybe there is an atlas 4 speed option that would do the job. Even then you are putting serious power to the winch. You can either choose:
1/. low pressure really high flow rate, this causes:
- Installation/packaging difficulties (hose bend radius's, massive pumps, massive hydraulic motors, etc) - I'm talking WAY bigger than mile marker stuff.
- Massive valve blocks
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high weight because:
- Large volume of oil
- Pump needs to be big
- hydraulic motor needs to be massive to get the speed you need at the winch (with an H14 48:1 gear ratio). This is then impractical to fasten to the winch
2/. High pressure, low flow rate:
- Small(er) pump
- Small(er) hydraulic motor that will realistically attach to the H14
- Smaller pipes/hoes
- Lower weight
- ££ expensive components
The killer for option 2/. is the costs. However, when you go much above OOM 150 BarG you jump to hydraulic equipment that can take 400 Bar. So you might as well use it's capacity/capability if you go for it.
What would I do differently if I were starting again? - I'd buy an electric winch off Jim and fit that. It will be cheaper and simpler. When I started my system design and buying parts Jim had only managed to make a prototype 8274 free spool top housing. Electric winches had not 'come of age' in terms of competition performance. Now a days don't waste your cash - go for a high-performance electric winch.
Adrian
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I was going to run without an oil tank.....
Suppose I'd better justify that. Oil tanks do the following for you:
- Allow oil to de-aerate
- Allow for oil expansion when hot
- Act as a means of increasing the oil volume such that the bulk oil temperature does not rise as fast as it would in a closed loop circuit. This means that you can size a cooler for the normal duty point and allow short term higher duty points to be absorbed by the bulk oil. The cooler then lowers the temperature later when the duty cycle returns to the lower normal.
What they don't do:
- Radiate much heat. If your duty is continuous then the cooler has to be rated to remove the heat input. If not after OOM a few minutes the oil will overheat. A bigger oil tank will not meaningfully increase cooling, but it will result in the time to overheat increasing. Not much use if your duty cycle is a constant 100%.
'Most' hydraulic systems are either static or bolted to slow speed industrial excavators and the like. Basically, little shaking and movement of the tank. In a 4x4 (especially at speed) the oil in the tank will be thrown all over the place. So, in my opinion the main function of de-aerating the oil will be compromised in a 4x4.
I'd like to claim the inspiration for the way I had intended to go, but it came from a 'Pirate4x4' thread - 'Hydrodynamic buggy'. The build thread seems to have been deleted. But look here for a full hydraulic drive crawler (Hydro motor at each wheel, engine driving a BIG pump only). See links below & search for hydrodyamic buggy on Pirate.
Why point you too this, well the circled device in the screenshot is the 'oil tank' (it's not a tank - it is just a fluid expansion tank and air catcher):
Basically, oil is drawn from the expansion device, goes to the pump, pump discharge goes directly back, via a cooler, to the expansion tank. It is fully closed loop; the expansion device is just a 'bulge' in the return line that easily allows for any heat derived expansion. It also acts as a high point for any air, but once the system is set up and fully purged of air then it will be fully air free. The cooler needs to be rated to the max duty cycle though. However, if it can be made to work taking the full power output of a 6.0 ltr V8 without overheating, then it will work with a small hydraulic pump.
What is the advantage:
1/. Lower weight
2/. oil aeration is not possible
3/. System will work at any angle
Links to buggy info:
Off-Roading On Another Level: Jeff Friesen's Hydrodynamic Buggy (offroadxtreme.com)
Adrian
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Lower pressures drive a bigger pump to deliver the torque you need. Think you will end up at either slow speed and lw pressure or higher speed and higher pressure
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This is/was my project with the winch - chronic fatigue kind of stopped the job 10 years ago.....
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Go for a bent axis piston motor on the winch - you can get 8,00 to 10,000 RPM out of them. A bit like this:
To keep weight down you need to run high pressures, like 400 BarG. That forces you to use fancy valve blocks and the like.
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On 8/12/2022 at 9:18 AM, Stellaghost said:
I don't have any.......
So I might have to disagree with that ...........lol
Regards Stephen
Stephen,
I will rephrase - perfectly possible to do with out one. But a damn site easier and quicker with one. So depends on you concerns about efficiency WRT to your personal assessment of your time cost. There is also the attraction of tools. Apparently if you die with the most tools there is some kind of prize?? Also if you have spent the cash it stops the wife wasting it on a new car she doesn't need as the old one still moves.
Adrian
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Fireball - if you buy from the euro web site orders under a £100 seem to sneak though with out VAT and import tax being added. Well that was my experience last year - placed 3 orders. Don't blame me if that doesn't work any more!
Help !!
in International Forum
Posted
Try here:
Spring Alignment Dowels / Bushings | SPIROL
Adrian