drovers

Got feed up with this been chasing most of the day. Dash out just in case of shorts, tracked cables redraw diagram, the green wire joins the Cental locking to the Delay relay. 0 volts on this the whole time. Gave up in the end, disabled the delay circuit and rewired the courtesy lights. Happy now :-)

Weird... Last week the interior light decided to reverse their actions...... Ie Turn Off as soon as car Unlocked, then Turn on and stay on when locked by the central locking! So did all the norm, isolated all the door switches and tailgate. Same problem... Went to the "big Yellow interior light relay" swapped it, then swapped it with a standard so didn't have any delay... Still same fault Lights on when locked by central locking Lights off when opened by cental locking. So question is... looking at all wiring diagrams in the Big Grey Range Rover original Bible manual , then on RAVE, and as a last resort even looked at the Haynes book of lies... I can not see how the Cetnral locking connects to the Interior light delay. Does anyone know or have some ideas on how to check /diagnose this ? Many thanks Mike

Thanks for all your replies. Really helpful Now, if anyone has a good unit they want to sell......

Help please...!!! Have restored a S1 1951 80 inch, and having difficulty finding out if a series 2/3 overdrive unit is compatible with this vehicles original gearbox. It all looks the same at the back as a S2..... If anyone can inform me would be grateful If anyone has a good condition unit non whiny etc. Please let me know, cash waiting... Near Pershore Worcestershire Many thanks Mike

Thanks Guys, I started with P76range and rechecked the timing with a strobe, previously I'd set the timing with the Vacum disconnected and set it to 4 degrees advance, with the vacume tube attached as per p76...I only saw the mechanical advance was working..... I'm pretty embarrassed about this as I just ASSUMED the new distributor was good, but the diafram in the new vacaume advance and retire was U.S. If i'd bothered to suck on the tube attached to this unit rather than just test the rubber tube I would of sussed this out!....and saved a small fortune in time money!- The garage swear box! ITS HUGE! Thanks for all your help. I'm now advanced to 8 degrees and moving like she used to! Will "never" assume again! Thanks again Mike

Any ideas on the following...its now really bugging me re my 3.9 1990 classic V8! Between 2000-4500 engine is really gutless. If i kick the acceslerator to the floor she'll stumble for a bit, then go off like a rocket...(well a slow rocket, but i'm sure you know what I mean! ) Starts fine hot of cold History:- Had intermittent cutting out, and mis-firing/mubberling- turned out to be the Distributor amplifier. Then the old distributor fell apart with the mechanical advance and retire, (springs where shot), and the distrutor shaft above the mechanical advance and retire kept rising up making the engine stop dead. Replaced whole distributor...(not with the original Lucas) but a patent one from M+M4x4 @ Martin Hussintree UK.£149.00 (This had new Vacum advance and retire plus a further new ignition amplifier, rotor arm and distributor cap) Cleaned the Stepper motor at the rear of the Plenium chamber, swapped the ECU for the fuel injectors, replaced the fuel pump, replaced the fuel pressure valve positioned just below the stepper motor, Checked the timming with a decent strobe (with the Vacum advance and retire disconneceted and set to book 4 degrees) Checked for air leaks, all rubber hoses are sound. Made sure that the Mass air sensor is NOT earthed. Swapped all spark plugs and leads Has anyone had probs with patent distributors from M&M? Have been told it might be the alternator?? Is there a easy way to test the soleniod at the rear of the Plenium chamber? (Cant find what the resistance values should be) Any advise or way to diagnose this appreciated Regards Mike

Thanks for all the advise. Transmission all back in now and no rattles and is fine. Nasty bits where "transfer box intermediate shaft and bearings which wear badly on these boxes" "the phosphor bronze bush which can fracture around the step on the middle of the layshaft" Thanks for all your advise and encouragemnt Replaced loads of other bits on the way, As per your comments, there nice to work on and I won't shy away from a early series box again!! Mike P.S doesn't leak any oil.....yet!

Hi Giles Had same prob as you albeit a 3.9 efi not 3.5 efi Got a lot of good help from Fridge-Freezer and ideas from others really helpful. My post and answers:- http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47394 In the end. I could not tie it down to One specific thing, but things just got better as I went through and replaced bits. Main bits that really made a diff where, Ign Amp, Fuel Pump and Breathers on tank. I did not have to swap the ECU but that was going to be my next thing if none of the above in the post fixed it. Check earths as well as these can be a real person I'm not that keen on!! Sounds like the fault left my wagon and infected yours!! Hope you get to the bottom of it, Mike

Thanks for all this advise. Its been really helpful. Gone through the wiring loom with a multi meter and really given it some hassle by pulling pushing and bending the loom , especially where the loom bends or goes throught the body work and is clamped..ie fatique points, all this was done with the engine has been running. but she didn't miss a beat (Had most the dash off and the carpets up etc.) Last night took out the rear floor and........ The top of the fuel pump looked likes its got really hot at some point. as the connectors look burnt. (But I've always hear the fuel pump running when she stops.) I'm going with a new pump as advised in the posts. Plus have found that 2 of the 3 vent tubes to the expansion tank where bloked. so have cleared these. Will post results this intermittent prob has really been annoying to say the least. But huge thanks for all your comments. Will come back ASAP Mike

Over the last months my G reg Classic...which I've owned for 8 yrs and love (well used to...) Has developed a nasty habit of the engine completely cutting out, for anywhere between 5 sec to anything upto 10 minutes when warm or hot. Sometimes she just "mumbles" if thats a word! i.e will drop to around 1000rpm, it you press the throttle down then she cuts out , on release it will "mumble" back to say 1000 revs... Sometimes she recovers and carries on perfectly...other times she really gets the Ar$e with me, and follows up a mumbling session by cutting out as mentioned before..B!tch !!! When the engine runs it's perfect, poweful, no adverse engine noise, no smoke, an absolute gem. So I've been chasing an ignition and/or fuel fault. These are the parts I've changed and in order! New Ignition Coil New Spark plug leads ...just for the hell of it, could of been the coil to distriutor breaking down etc. New Distributor cap and rotor arm New fuel filter. by rear off side wheel New fuel relays under the Drivers seat New advance and "retard" as the old had gone senile! Had the distributor out, and all looked fine. Springs etc all connected and ok. New distributor amplifer module Check that the Airflow meter was not earthed, ie throught the air filter housing which has rubber mounts fixing it to the inner wing. When she cuts out I've tried disconnecting the Airflow meter then the Throttle potentiometer just for the hell of it, then the electrical connector to the Stepper motor at the back of the Plenum chamber. All makes no effect to her wanting to start!!! When she feels like it, she'll re-start and pretend that nothing ever happened....(now that reminds me of someone!) Iv'e just finished having a blitz on testing Earths! all seem to be OK. Getting feed up.... I do not have or know of a way to test the Fuel pump pressure accuratley or the Fuel pressure bypass switch. I tried running with no filler cap, just incase of an breather problem and vacum in the tank. I'm just about to remove the rear floor panel or cut a hole in it to get to the fuel pump. (Don't want to drop the tank out) Other suggestions have been Alternator/ ECU / Shorts in loom Or a just devine intervention that God and Land Rover don't like me anymore.. Any advise would be greatly welcomed...(And no, I don't want to Scrap it!!) Drovers

Thanks for all the info and advise. The OLLR.net gear box guide really helps to make sense of the old Land Rover WS manual, that assumes you have done it all before! Cheers for the link Rusty-W Checked all I could in situ. Noise still coming from the Box. So the whole lot is now out and starting to spread out across my garage... They come apart nicely....All in all it looks pretty tidy so far...Mind you I havn't put it back together yet! Thanks again for all the advise, when I find the "rattley bit" I'll post a reply!. Cheers Mike

Any help regarding the following would be really appreciated. I have an original Series 1 1951 80 inch. It has a later 2.0ltr engine which I've rebuilt BUT I know very little of gear boxes... Problem with my gear box is as follows:- When driving and when I let off the accelerator. i.e on the over run in 3 or 4th The gear box and/or the transfer box makes a high pitch metalic rattle, bit like a loose panel or a broken internal exhaust baffle. If I apply power it stops. This noise has only started recently but is getting progressivly louder and more regular. Sorry for such a brief description, but is there a common fault that might explain this noise. I've been told that Lay shafts are weak Basically I do not know enough about gear boxes (Probably a good time to get involved now) Any advice appreciated, or the name of someone who knows / can rebuild S1 boxes "nicely" One comment a guy made was to swap it for a SII box, but I'm not sure if there are changes in ratios or fitting issues. Help much appreciated Regards Mike (Worcester/Gloucester Area)

Many thanks 80Inch, Yes the link still works...and yes I'm £95 worse off! Thanks again! Drovers

My fuel gauge was always showing full, and it wasn't the tank sender, or a short/open circuit to the gauge causing the problem... As its only a simple fuel gauge, and I had a soldering iron/hammer and No Fear of the electrickery... I took it apart...BIG MISTAKE! I broke 2 of those "little wires" on the inside coils and don't know where they go! SO....Does any one have a wiring diag for one of the small round fuel gauges and info on what the coil resistances should be..... OR better still a company who can repair it!!! At the moment the gauge now reads empty...I prefered it when it read full ............. Drovers!!!!