orangemach5
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Posts posted by orangemach5
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Hi all,
After fitting my new EGT gauge this morning i am a tad concerned. Whats the max EGT for a Isuzu 4Jb1??? The pump has been tweeked by the previous engine owner and im running about 12 psi of boost. Theres a slight bit of black smoke at full throttle. At current the temp easily reaches 1000-1100 degrees F at WOT and about 500-600 just about half throttle.
I havent fitted an intercooler yet, but i dont think it will change the temp much. I ran methanol/water injection on the previous engine and the system is still in place, do you think that will help the EGT much if i use the system again??
Cheers
Paul
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LOL i thought that might be the case
.Cheers
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The old mans 95 Softdash 3.9 has a complete sports exhaust system fitted with tub manifolds and decat y with lambda's. It will NOT go through emissions at the MOT. We have cheated and fitted dickie seats and so its classed as MPV and doesnt require a cat for that year
.I always use 20/50.
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Hi all,
The front diff on my truck has started to go south, i have the complete rear diff that i removed to fit the arb and so i know its good. Question is i have been warned that you shouldnt use a diff thats been on the rear on the front or visa versa because of the direction of running its done during its life. I cant see it making much difference but its got me thinking!
Will it be ok running the diff the oposite way??
Cheers
Paul
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Creepy crawlers are still quite noisey though! Hankook do some 305.... somethings that are roughly 35.12.5, think they are called RT03's. Should be quiet, depends how agressive you need the tyres though!
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Ask Simon from X-eng, they do a groovy anodized one just for the job!
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If that 16-18 is measured across an otherwise good condition battery then yes you have a duff one.
Steve
Hi Steve,
thanks for the reply. It registers 17.5 volts on both Optimas
! I spoke to the supplier and he said they cant high speed test them because of the oil fed vac pump on the rear, he is kindly sending me out another . So Ill fit that and see what we get. The last thing i need is 2 fried Optimas!Cheers
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Hi all,
Engine is all in and running well finally!!! I put a new alternator on, having wired it all up it charges fine but at higher revs it overcharges (16-18V!!). I would of thought it would be a reg problem but the alternator is brand spanky. Its the 80amp version with the 3 pin plug on the rear. Any ideas before i go on a rave to the supplier
!!Many thanks
Paul
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I have seen washers fitted between the clutch cover and flywheel on izusu conversions before so I presume this could be a issue with the conversion.
The washers I saw appeared to be slightly thiner than standard m8 washers though.
I was once told that a landrover clutch plate was thicker than a izusu clutch plate hence the washers.
I have allso seen izusu flywheels "skimed" flat and then a landrover pressure plate fitted, no spacer washers.
If you watch the forks of the pressure plate move as you tighten the pressure plate bolts you will see a small movement at the bols makes a huge movement at the fork where the thrust bearing pushes.
I have made 3 of my own adapter plates for short bellhousing lt77/series and I did not use spacers on the pressure plate.
somebody on here should be able to tell you where the rod lies relative to the gearbox bellhousing with a std landrover, yours should be in verry close the same position.
would it be worth making up a new pushrod rather than dismantling the engine and box again?
Cheers for all the replies guys!!
I had thought about making a new longer pushrod, but i think it will either bottom the fork out on the inside of the bellhousing or possibly push the thrust bearing partially off it guide and put it at a funny angle. I think ill get some 1mm washers made up and remove the bellhousing and mock up with the engine o the floor rather than wrestling with the engine hoist endlessly
. If i have no luck i shall have to give CPE a ring like Jes has suggested! Dont suppose anybody has their phone no. handy??Cheers Paul
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Hi all,
Just in the process of fitting a 4JB1 to my rangerover which has the long stick LT77, i bought the engine with a conversion kit already fitted and attached to another LT. When i split the supplied box from the engine the ball that clutch fork pivots on just fell out, it had been snapped and the just placed back in
. On closer inspection of the engine 2 of the 6 bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel had been snapped and were still in the flywheel (I hate welding bolts out!) 
. So as im sure you can imagine im now thinking that the guy who looked after this before was slighty uuummm careless should we say. I Ordered up a valeo 130 friction plate and a new Isuzu clutch cover. When i removed the cover it had your everyday m8 flat washers spacing the cover from the flywheel (1mm spacing approx), i removed them as i thought it could of been another bodge from the previous owner. All fitted and theres no clutch on the pedal, removed the slave cyl and the rod that attaches to the fork is just level with the hole in the bellhousing, so the slave cyl cant reach! Am i right in thinking that the rod should poke through by 1-2"?I know there are a fair few on here who have done the conversion and so could you tell me whether the washers are part of the kit and should be fitted. Im assuming that the 1mm spacing lets the pressure plate springs extend further to make contact with the thrust bearing but will a 1mm spacing really make the rod move those 1-2" out so the slave can make contact?
Sorry it long winded!
Any helps much appreciated
Cheers Paul
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Is the belt nice and tight? Could be the belt slipping under load.
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Does it smoke at all? It could be a diesel knock you are hearing rather than the tappets, might be worth checking the inj pump timing.
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When i had this problem on the old mans 200tdi i used a drift and a Mer to crack the solenoid off and then it wound out with the spanner easily. When i removed the solenoid i found lots of swarf stuck to the plunger as Western says. We stuck a magnet in and cleaned it out but it only lasted a few days before it done it again, new pump it was! Its amazing how they can break up like this, im told its because the of the sulphur level in the diesel these days??
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After the 2nd engine i would of been up in arms demanding money back, thats shocking!!!
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Forgot to mention ref cheap vane compressors! Hydrovane compressors are the dogs, but they are £1200 upwards!!!!
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Ive been thinking of doing this myself, but i figured to make it worthwhile you should build a machine with at least 2 maybe 3 pumps! The problem you come across then is running them on startup, you need a capacitor drive motor. My current compressor which is 14cfm and 3hp which works out 2 1/4KW and wont run off a 13A supply, i had to add a stand alone 16A supply. Dont know what your power situation but bare this in mind! If you get a cheap used compressor from say fleebay which has a buggered pump then you could use the motor and resevoir along with the pressure switch relief valve for an easy build!
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As long as the Oil light goes out within 5 secs of starting theres nothinbg to worry about, oil when thicker will take a bit more to prime so the cold could slow it down slightly. As regards to the running fault, i would place my money on water in the fuel or even a nasty spurt of fuel. I would take all the turbo hoses off and check them and also since the pipes are off you might aswell pull the intercooler out and flush it clean!
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Were you stuck in a deep hole with bumper water level recently? Im assuming you just found muddy water and not actually mud in the housing??? Theres never a perfect seal between the bellhousing and the engine and depending on how often you remove the bung it can build up. When i fit an engine i always put a small bead of silicon sealant on the mating surface and it helps. As regards to cleaning i would leave the bung out and drive it for a while to dry it out, i wouldnt try to flush with water as it may result in muddy water contaminating your clutch and you dont want that.
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12 months on and I have a vibration, at first I thought it was the tyres or maybe a UJ but now I am thinking it might be the DMF because when you depress the clutch pedal, the vibration goes and with the cover off the battery box I can hear it coming from around the gearbox area.
Anyone else had DMF vibration.
I have never felt a DMF vibration on a Td5, but i have felt it on other cars and its quite often accompanied by a rattle or metallic knock! I find it hard to think that i could of failed in one year!
Ive never been a fan of DMF's so if it was me i would get a sprung centre clutch plate and fit a solid flywheel and do away with the dual mass system completely
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A mate bought the 350A Anderson plugs and they are waaaaaayyy to big for Landrover use bloody mooosive, i think they would quite happilly start the HMS fleet!!!
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Ive always used a good quality 10/40 semi sythetic in the Tdi's. Engine life span is greatly dependant on the service history and driving style! Looked after well and any engine should clock up high miles without a problem!
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Hi all,
Ive been looking into a clutch for when i put the new engine in my RR, im after the 130 clutch kit as its stronger.
Its an Isuzu 2.8 going in but it has a 19J TD clutch, correct me if im wrong but i believe this is the same as 200tdi. Been shopping online and I can only find the 130 clutch kit for the 300tdi, is this the same fitment as the 200 19J TD etc???
Cheers
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I use glass beads, i find them a bit too tame for stubborn paint and rust etc, but as said on here earlier they give a great finish on aluminium.
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I have got a intermitent fault with the front drivers window. Recently replaced the regulator and all working fine but suddenly stopped working, the switches are all fine any help please????
Did you just replace the regulator or the motor aswell? I assume you have checked the fuses?
Take the door panel off and check you have a feed at the motor plug when you operate the switch, its probably a sticky motor. Usually a wack will free them up but eventually it will stick again so its best to source a replacement!
! I spoke to the supplier and he said they cant high speed test them because of the oil fed vac pump on the rear, he is kindly sending me out another 
!!
. If i have no luck i shall have to give CPE a ring like Jes has suggested! Dont suppose anybody has their phone no. handy??
. So as im sure you can imagine im now thinking that the guy who looked after this before was slighty uuummm careless should we say. I Ordered up a valeo 130 friction plate and a new Isuzu clutch cover. When i removed the cover it had your everyday m8 flat washers spacing the cover from the flywheel (1mm spacing approx), i removed them as i thought it could of been another bodge from the previous owner. All fitted and theres no clutch on the pedal, removed the slave cyl and the rod that attaches to the fork is just level with the hole in the bellhousing, so the slave cyl cant reach! Am i right in thinking that the rod should poke through by 1-2"?
Max EGT???
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Cheers for all the replies, going to fit an intercooler anyways as i think it will be better for the engine in the long run and give a slight performance increase too.