Spongie2a
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Posts posted by Spongie2a
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The chav in me escaped...
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not so much overheating just really down on power.
The idea is to get as much air and fuel in fast, burn it and then get it out even faster.
Seriously change your systen
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Mine is like this:
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oh and RE: drilling flywheel, you shouldnt need to re drill flywheel at all as there should be a SIIa 9.5" flywheel or you could use the SIII flywheel
But then again I've never looked at a v8 too closely, my current 9.5" clutch did come off a 3.5v8 though and it was not re drilled...
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There is nothing stopping you using a series 3 box, just change the slave cylinder for SIII one and all is well.
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Out of the turbo you want an adaptor to clamp the disco front section into the turbo. then a 90 down and over the chassis rail, sweep the front pipe from the disco down the footwell, below bulkhead outrigger, flatten out under the floor into discovery back box and out just below the door infront of the wheel.
Job done, 1 Front pipe and 1 back box.
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Hey dont knock it... I've seen SII dash fitted on Defender bulkheads!!!
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I have no experience of either type bulkhead only what I have heard from others.
Pegasus parts do not accept poor quality from what I've heard.
they are seriously keen restorers.
I have not seen a Ashtree bulkhead, but I have been told by someone who has that he was not impressed. He has done better repair work on bulkheads himself and that the "low temperature galvanising" appears not to have been very well adhered to the metal (bulkhead too lower temp so zinc didnt fuse with the steel)
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series 2 and series 3 have a completely different clutch plate arrangement
SIII has a multi fingered plate 9.5"
SIIA has a 3 sprung centre which locates onto a metal bearing surface. 9"
some IIas have a multi fingered plate with a metal ring in the centre, this is the HD 9.5" SIIa clutch
the clutch slave is different and is on the drivers side (UK) for IIa and on passengers side (UK) for series 3.
HTH
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if you dont trust a £1000 restored bulkhead then go for a £1000 brand new bulkhead from Pegasus parts
http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/prod_334114-346500-GLD.html
Thought they were cheaper than that :S
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I got the 38mm diameter water pipe i required from unipart. They may have the size of pipe you require?
Cheers, the nice man sent me a text to say my engine is on its way and should be here either Thursday or Friday... so now I have but to wait...
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Got an oil seal here which hasn't got a part number on the package.
Its a brown coloured oil seal with:
BAFVI1UD3 SLSF DRWX67
44.45 X 69.85 X 14.5
(assuming ID, OD and Thickness as that appears correct)
slightly bigger than SII/III gearbox oil seal (as I have one here)
Any ideas?
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Hi chap, yeah aware about the holes needing counterboring for the ladder girdle.
intercooler now here so have pipe size off of that, engine later this week... then the rush to get finished
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hi angus im using disco rad, trouble is Neither Rad, Intercooler or engine have arrived yet and im trying to do some shopping prior to the pallet arriving...
Ta
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Q: what Diameter hose is required for Radiator Top/Bottom hoses and Intercooler Top/Bottom hoses on a 200Tdi Disco into series set up?
Planning on using convoluted hose for cooling and straight silicon hose with steel formed pipes for the intercooler.
Ta
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It takes the screen demister
pipework, which just pushs in the top of the heater housing and onto the stubs of the metal vent boxshth
Steveb
No chap re read the post,
not the demister housing, the bolt on the side of the matrix that is not holding anything in place
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Clutch pedal is down when it pops like this.
I'm due to be TDi'ing in a few weeks so I'm not really too fussed just like to know what is wrong.
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Its casting is part number FRC1809
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My clutch was slipping rather excessively so I adjusted the rod a few turns on the clutch slave. Since doing this on start and stopping the engine the clutch is making a unusual Popping noise.
Any ideas what this may be? Have I over adjusted it or something?
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SORTED:
The Spare Fob has never worked as one of the switches is broken off the PCB, however...
The main Fob on closer inspection turned out that the battery holder had a dry joint which wasnt contacting...
and Ta Da no Fob.
Resoldered and working lovely... for Free
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My Dads Discovery has now started having the alarm problems,
tried using the fob to unlock the discovery, wouldnt unlock. Using the key unlocked the door but imobiliser wouldnt come off.
Door would then lock on the fob but not unlock.
If you open the door on the key the Alarm goes off...
If we ASSUME that the problem is the spider and we fit the bypass for the Imboliser would we be able to unlock the discovery using the key and not have the alarm constantly going off or is our problem elsewhere?
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1 TON FC 16" 6.5" 2.25" - 3.25" Varying part nos
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Sorry gremlin, I feel a bit thick here. (Because I am, I'm sure)
But what part of the hub have you machined off to allow the disk to be fitted.
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CIS you are kidding! wanted £3k to insure me, at 17 on a 1967 88" Diesel
I went to Footman james, for I believe around £1000, but was TPFT
They are insuring me now, but earlier this year quoted me (at 20) £302 on a 1973 300 Tdi 5 Speed Series 3 109" not bad at all.
HELP - Series brakes driving me mad
in Series Forum
Posted
what flexi hoses have you got rubber or braided? and how old, they may be ballooning