Tom.H
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Posts posted by Tom.H
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I’m thinking of doing the odd comp safari event next year in my Defender 110
I’ve spent much of the Christmas period trying to work out what more I’d need to do to get my 110 to survive an event.
The piece of information I’ve not be able to find is regarding the chassis strengthening involved. Obviously on vehicles like a Tomcat the space frame welded onto the LR chassis gives a huge strength increase.
Being a 110 the chassis is deeper than a 90 and the full external roll cage will also help. I’ve noticed a few vehicles have a bracing going between the front the rear suspension arm brackets on the chassis. A few other vehicles I’ve seen have plating to the sides of the chassis, where it drops down at the front and back to the middle.
My 110 uses Devon4x4's King Racing suspension (remote reservoir damper/ hydraulic bump stops) which should deal with comp safari racing. However I’m slightly concerned about the chassis/spring mount brackets; has anyone seen these with added bracing?
Is there any other chassis areas that should be reinforced?
Axle trussing also seems pretty common, the end flanges of a Salisbury axle seem extreme;y thin, has anyone seen any sort of axle failure on a Salisbury
I’ve really struggled to find answers to my questions over the internet; the world of comp safari racing seems very hush-hush.
Many Thanks
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I have removed the three bolt plate on the transfer box (red circle) and have been able to remove the diff lock selector shaft and move the shaft it bears on forwards and back. Apart from this very little can be seen
Obviously if I could remove the plate on the side of the transfer box (yellow arrow) I would be able to determine the issue however this is not possible as the gearbox prevents the fixings being undone.
I can’t see what I would achieve removing the 6 bolt cover (circled green) as I believe this only allows access to the low/high range mechanism.
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I own a 200tdi Defender 110 which has done 190,000 miles and from what I know has its original transferbox
After fitting a front Double Cardan propshaft the vehicle developed a grinding sound on overrun above 50mph.
The grinding sound was avoidable as long as I didn’t jump of the throttle quickly or if I applied only a slight throttle so I left it as I was for a couple of 1000 miles.
I determined this grinding occurred due to a worn front transferbox output bearing and changed it however the issue was not resolved.
After using the vehicle off road I noticed I could not engage the transfer box diff lock. After removing the transmission cover I confirmed the difflock selector shaft going into the transfer box rotated (three clicks through its travel) and the shaft it bears on inside the transfer box moves forwards and back.
My theory is that the grinding sound I have been hearing has worn away the teeth on the locking mechanism of the diff lock.
I just wondered if my theory was feasible and if anyone could confirm this would be the consequence of running a transfer box with a badly worn output bearing for a long period?
Many Thanks
Tom
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Thanks for the reply.
My 110 is pick up, I took the measurements unloaded and with barely any fuel, so yes it is very light at the rear.
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Hi
My 110 200tdi Defender has standard springs and seems to be far higher at the rear than the front.
I’ve taken some measurements and I have 2” between the bump stop and axle at the front and 5” at the rear.
The front springs look fairly original; do you think this difference in height is due to spring sagging?
Has anyone recently fitted some original springs to their 110 and would be able to tell me what measurements they get?
Thanks
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Thanks for you help! I think I will buy NRC4171 as I'd really like a third mount on my rockslider before its used in anger.
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Evening
I recently fitted a set of Terrafirma rock sliders to my 1993 Defender 110 pick up.
The rock sliders have three brackets on each side. One goes to the bulkhead outrigger, the other goes to main outrigger (just behind the cab) and in my case there isn’t one for the third.
There seems to be an unused bracket on the chassis the same distance along as the third bracket on the rock slider however there is nothing to fill the gap.
I’d like to fit this bracket if it exists and wondered if anyone knew anything about it?
Tom
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Evening
Looking for some new wheels and wondered if anyone had purchased or could give me a review of the Challenger steel wheels available from 4x4 tyres. Being a copy of Mach 5's I'am concerned of there quality however the price is far more manageable.
http://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/defender/16inch-7inch-challenger-black-steel-wheel-p-1571.html
Cheers
Tom
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Anyone an ARB historian....
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Thanks for the reply, did arb just renumber the same locker? Its seems plenty of places still stock rd20's, which one am I best of buying?
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Just a quickieI have a 1993 110 Defender, I’m planning on fitting a ARB locker to the sailsbury rear axle.ARB seems to offer two diffs for a 3.54 Salisbury axle, one being a RD20 and the other an RD161.Does anyone know the difference between these two diffs and which one is more desirable?ThanksTom
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Thanks for your help, am I correct in thinking this switch has 4 pins at the back?
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I cant seem to find the correct fog light switch for my age of vehicle.
The vehicle is a 1988 Defender 110 High Capacity
The vin is SALLDHHVEA349842
If someone could provide me the part number for the switch for the rear fog light it would be great.
Cheers
Tom
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Mid September I’ll be starting an automotive engineering degree at Oxford Brookes.
I will be in accommodation however due to the location of the university there are no parking facilities on offer.
How this is at all Land Rover related! 
Well.... I own a 100” tomcat which was built and provisory owned by ‘MikeTomcat’ a member of this forum. I am after a safe and secure place to park my vehicle in the nearby Oxford area, preferably in Wheatley.
If anyone in the area has or known’s of anyone who might have a suitable parking place could you please let me know
07813 590048
Thanks Alot
Tom
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Hi
I’ve got a 110 TD5 Defender and a weird squealing/machining sound has occurred.
I first thought it was an auxiliary belt pulley but it doesn’t occur when the vehicle is stationary or when the engine is rev’d.
The sound only occurs when the vehicle is moving and under load. If I dip the clutch and coast the sound does not occur.
It occurred after a light green laning trip. My 110 has always had a problem with jumping out of difflock when it’s in a cross axel’d situations. The last lane I did it jumped out of difflock quite harshly.
It was used as a tree surgery vehicle before I brought it and I suspect it has been used in low range and difflock a fair bit. It has done 130,000 miles.
Because of my greenlining issue and the fact it only occurs under load I believe it’s likely to be an problem with the drive train.
Does anyone have any clues??
Cheers
Tom
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Hi
I have a 2000 high capacity Defender
The pickup area seems to have some repair/inspection plates on it. Both of these plates are at the front of pick up area, one in the left corner and one in the right
I’ve got a hole elsewhere in my pickup and one of these plates would cover the area perfectly.
Can these plates be brought and if so what is there part number?
Cheers
Tom
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I am 17 years old; I passed my test 6 months ago.
I am insured on a 110 Td5 High capacity with the National Farmers Union.
Since it’s a High capacity is classed as a light goods vehicle which allows me to go under the NFU’s Commercial vehicle policy
Full comprehensive with a limited mileage of 10,000 I am paying £1400
As already mentioned the number of seats in the vehicle majorly affects the cost of insurance.
I friend of mine is insured on a Discovery and the cost of his insurance with it registered as a 2 seater instead of 7 made it half as much.
Buying a vehicle which can go under a commercial policy seems to lower the cost of insurance
If you looking to buy a Defender I think the 110 High capacities are about the cheapest ones to buy. I think this is because of the demand for them, Out of all the Defenders who wants a 3 seater 110 pickup, apart from maybe business?
Hope this helps
Tom
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Hi
I am about to buy some harnesses for my vehicle.
For MSA speed events (Safari / XTC) what are the regulations?? Do the actual belts need to be MSA or FIA spec? What's the minimum width for the chest and lap belt?
Cheers
Tom
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The Vibration is quite bad. After replacing the mount I notice that the transfer box was pushed against the chassis. With it now moved away there is an improvement however I still think it’s no way as smooth as a normal land rover 90
I don’t know where the mounts are from. They aren’t new and were basically picked out from a box of odd mounts. The reason I didn’t start off with new ones is because they were left in when the brackets were welded onto the chassis and I thought they would have melted
They don’t seem to have become damaged from being welded however I am up for replacing the mounts with new ones.
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Hi
A quick question:
How Does the rubber used for transmission mounting compare to the rubber used for engine mounting?
Transmission mount Rubber
(Part number: KKB103120) http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2913/KKB103120-MOUNTING-RUBBER.html?search=mounting%20rubber&page=1
Engine mount Rubber
Part number: ANR1808 http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2870/ANR1808-ENGINE-MOUNTING-RUBBER.html?search=ANR1808&page=1
I only ask because I’ve completely ‘re done’ the engine mount brackets on my vehicle. They used to use the rubber from radius arms bushes and not surprisingly they didn’t absorb much of the vibration. The bracket I now have allow me to use normal engine mount rubber used on rover V8 and TDI’s
I thought there would be a vast improvement in vibration however there isn’t. I picked out the mounts I used from a box of gearbox/engine mounts. Basically there might be a possibility I’ve used transmission rubber instead of engine mount rubber, as they both look familiar
Does anyone know if the transmission rubber is stiffer than engine mount rubber? Could this the possible reason why there is no improvement in the vibration going through my vehicle?
Old mount
New mount
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200 tdi engine from a Discovery
Don't actually know what its called but its the pipe which goes from the turbo to the injector pump. The one that as the turbo produces more pressure the injector pump works at it needs to deliver more fuel
Cheers
Tom
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I keep on putting this behind me.... However I really need to get it sorted?
David: It seemed in your previous posts that in my circumstance you would recommend I use the transfer box ECU for a manual box.
I am aware that one of reason was because the range switch on a manual is done via a button whereas on the auto it done my moving the gear selector over to the ‘low gate’
Are there any other differences between the ECUs apart from this, It seems as if they need exactly the same Inputs.
It seems I can achieve all the inputs apart from one..... Gear position
As my vehicle runs an auto box from a Discovery 1 it doesn’t have an XYZ.
The XYZ switch on the P38 auto box reads of the selector shaft, which moves when the driver changes gear with the selector
I was thinking I could just buy a complete XYZ switch for a P38 auto box and imitate the movement of the selector shaft by moving it by hand. This would allow me to give the correct signal to the transfer box ECU (That neutral is engaged).
I don’t know whether using an XYZ from a manual would make it any easier to achieve the neutral signal required by the transfer box.
Would this work or am I off my head??
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Go on: www.shiply.com
Kind of works like an auction were courier companies give you a price.
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I wasn’t even aware that borg warner transfer boxes were used in other land rovers.
The reason I am using the one for a P38 is because it’s offset to the opposite side to land rover axels.
Which means with a rear mounted engine the props will line up the diffs on a standard axle.
I am still up for the idea of a different box, especially as I’ve just found that the viscous coupling is sized (£300)
How this is at all Land Rover related! 
Power steering cooler – pre or post pump?
in International Forum
Posted
Hello
I’ve just fitted a 10 row power steering cooler to my rear engine Tomcat. I’ve fitted the cooler on the lower pressure side between the reservoir and the power steering pump.
Since fitting the cooler and starting the engine the pump make's a horrendous sound and the reservoir overflowed.
The symptoms lead me to believe the cooler is restricting the flow to the pump. Is this just down to fitting to smaller cooler or should I have plumbed the cooler between the steering box outlet and reservoir?
Thanks
Tom