Andy_LR90
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Posts posted by Andy_LR90
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Fantastic, Two answere in the time it took me to have a brew and get warmed up a bit, I can now go back out and try the above, many thanks
Andy
PS yes new nylock nuts.
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Hi
I'm trying to refit my track rod after removing one end to allow me to get the radius arms off. When refitting the track rod pins back to the hub mounting, the nut is spinning the whole pin and I can't get it done up. What do I need to do?
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Can anyone recomend a good specialist Land Rover mechanic in the Brigg/Scunny area, need to get a bit of professional help!
PS not Duckworths.
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My starter has been playing up for ages and I knew it was knackered, so I invested in a replacement which was bought paid for and, stored on a shelf in the garage for the last 3 months. The existing starter finally quit this week outside Wickes in S****horpe in the pouring rain. The fact that I had a new one on the shelf at home was only a small consollation.
There can be few this more useless than the new replacement part not fitted.
What instinct drives us to carry on knowing that something is going to break sooner or later? In my / this case pure idleness!!!!
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New one fitted, thanks to all who posted for your help.
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it'll be the coating trying to fold on itself during the in/out slide of that section causing the stiffness/jamming. when you fit the new prop make sure the slider is at the transfer box end.
Are you sure? I ask as the old old one was fitted with slider near diff end. It's a 2.5 petrol, year 1986, Ninety? Can some one please confirm as new one has already arrived from Paddocks. Can't see it in the workshop manual.
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I wondered what the plastic coating was called, yes its peeling and damaged........so new one on order today
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I have my front propshaft off to do the CV joints. When I try to slide the propshaft on it's splines it's very stiff, all cleaned out and greased up but still stiff. Should the splines be easy to slide or not? I'll get a new one if needed but want to be sure not wasting my money.
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You probably have a short somewhere. I dont think it is the starter; but you can test it this way: Switch everything electric off, unbolt the earth cable and measure the current between the negative post on the battery and the earth cable. A better idea, if availble, would be to use a clamp on amp-meter. Otherwise you might want to start the measuring with a simple 12 volt lamp - as a multi-meter normally wouldnt like big amounts of current going through it.
If the current flow between the battery negative and the earth cable is anything more than a few milli-amps,then you have a short circut somewhere - probably in an unfused connection. That narrows to cables running to and from alternator and starter.
Tested the current as above and I had .57 amps with nothing on, found it to be the 12V lighter socket, so pulled the fuse on that and no current draw with everything off, so do you think I have a short on this circuit then?
BTW 1986 2.5 petrol 90 with LPG
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My 90 has been playing up and I've had the battery on charge overnight. When cranking it over this morning I thought I could smell burning and on checking inside...........I found ..the earth cable, which is a length of braded cable not insulated but it was burning / melting it's way into the battery casing.
Is this ammount of heat normal and is it just that I need an insulated earth. Or is my starter drawing far too much current?
Ideas, suggestions please?
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Had the same problem on mine recently, the instructions from this site were excellent. I did master and slave cylinders at the same time the parts are cheap and you know that the whole lot is sound. Slave is a bit of an arse to get to though!!.
Thanks to Les Henson for his time spent producing the exellent instructions
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Just another point on adding acetone, acteone is miscible with water and any water dropplets in your tank or filter will be picked up and carried in the fuel. OK for a small quantity but not good if there's a lot,
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Thanks Steve, just checked and I get 260mm between the spring mounts so I guess it's standard.
I have got 5 of these 33 x 12.5 R16s to clean up and spray. They foul the radius arms on full lock so I'll need to adjust the lock stops. They fill the arches pretty well. Although if something inbetween the tiny ones and these monsters comes up on e-thief i may be tempted.
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Have a look and let me know what you think, has this been fitted with a lift kit?. I can't tell from the springs shocks etc as all are unmarked, by that I mean unlabled, they are browny rusty etc.
The tyres are 205 R 16s
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hia,
Last week I contributed to a thread on this very subject
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23390
I think the upshot was that you shouldn't put too much store on VIN numbers for early 90/110s
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Just checked mine on the new 90 and I find the same, got a A (1984) for model year in the VIN code but on a 1986 vehicle. Is there a batch with replaced older chassis? interested to see if anyone here knows. 
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This forum is Great! just had same problem as you, with instrument lights, did a search on here and bingo, check the switch! I'd never have thought as all my previous experience is with military vehicles.
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Thanks for the replies, given me something to think about, LPG system needs a once over as the fuel pump does run all the time and switching fuels on the LPG control doesn't turn it off. Also may consider upgrading to electronic ignition.
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Hi
I just aquired a 1986 90 with the 2.5 petrol engine. It has a LPG conversion which works very well. The previous owner said he ran on LPG full time but I read somewhere that this is not a good thing, I tried switching it to and from LPG /Petrol but this causes much coughing and spluttering. my question is can you run on LPG full time? if not I'll need to sort out the stuttering, secondly when running on LPG should I disconnect the fuel tank pump to save it running all the time?
Track rod ends
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just for the record I used the bar against the radius arm method but I like the idea of the jack to apply pressure, in future thats the way to go I think, THANKS EVERYONE