BigMac1
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Posts posted by BigMac1
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Morning guys and gals.
I've come to a deal with a mate who's got a the bits to change my 90 truckcab into a van. The problem is i've got to remove it from the 90 he's scrapping. Is it just a case of unbolting around the tops of the doors/windscreen and then from the rear tub?
Is there anything I should look out for? Im guessing the bolts will be tight and rust for the door hinges aswell.
Thanks in advance
Mick
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Paddock's,
There only about £10 - £12.
Mick
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As long as the crank and cam are timed up it won't do any damage, if the pump timing is too far out it will either run lumpy or not at all. Don't think the pump should be advanced that far though.
Sounds like yours has more problems than mine, lucky me!
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Not sure about turning the pulley, not had the timing cover off mine yet and not done a Landy belt. But I'd agree with lrfarmer about turning the crankshaft until piston 1 is at TDC, then checking the timing mark on the pump is lined up.
Cant wait to put a 200tdi in mine, but funds are holding me back and finding a decent donor. Need to get it done asap as im finidng more and more problems, seems to use more oil than fuel. Dont you love em'
Mick
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Not knocking your comptence but when you changed the belt are you certain none of the pulleys moved?
Black smoke is quite often excess fuelling. If the timing is slightly out this could be the cause.
Mick
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Be different and have a mixture of both!
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If you want them both out I'd lift them out together. Just try putting part of your sling near the bellhousing to help distribute the weight. Saves undoing all the bellhousing bolts while there on the car.
I think I read your taking the slam panel and rad out? If not I'd be tempted to split it as you could damage the rad.
Good luck!
Edited because I can't spell.....
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Haha, Sorted it!
The power cable from the starter to the ignition feed had come off! not sure how it had done this as it's a ring terminal and has been starting fine. Must have been my fult when I changed the starter!
Thanks for the above help guys!
Mick
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Right, the vehicle, 2.5TD 90.
I was out offroading today and got stuck in a deepish muddy water hole. I dipped the clutch to try reversing out after two or three attempts before and it cut out immediately. No dash lights would come on. The battery was fine, 13.4 volts, and I tried a jump lead from the negative on the battery to the engine to rule out a bad earth.
Can't seem to find a fuse blown either. I'm guessing it's something to do with the positive lead from the battery? Anyone experienced this problem before?
In the end we put a live to the fuel solenoid, bump started it and drove 15 miles with no lights or wipers etc. Needs must I'm afriad.
Mechanical stuff I find easy, electrical stuff baffles me so any help appreciated. Might give the auto electrician we use at work a call if I'm unsucessful.
Cheers
Mick
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The Clarke Premium roll cab is only another £20, that's on ball bearings. I've never used any of the Clarke tool boxes but had a look while I was in and they seem good quality.
I've got a mixture of a Halfords and Snap On box set up at work. The Halfords one is on ball bearings and slides lovely. The Snap On is on friction rollers and sticks fairly often if it's not oiled. I'd personally chuck another £20 in and get the premium version if you can afford to.
Alternatively if you can get or borrow someones trade card for halfords you'll save a few ££'s. Also the draws on the halfords boxes come out really easily should you need to, helps for moving a large box on your own if it's full.
Just my £0.02 worth.
Mick
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I've got a 1/2 sealey one that was on offer from one of our parts companies. Cost me about £16, I've used it 5 days a week, about 3 to four times a day depending on what jobs i've got and it's been great. I've had it about 8 months, being calibrated about 3 months ago. Not sure what they do to calibrate them as I've never asked or wtahced, will do next time.
Last I heard about Halfords tools, they were made by Facom, who I *think* own/are Britool aswell. Either way Halfords Pro range is excellent, try and get yourself a trade card to save a few ££'s, had mine for about 3 years and saved anything from £2 to £50 depending on what you spend, but well worth it.
Mick
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I did mine at a golf course as a groundkeeper. It was a good fun two weeks actually. The best thing I did was turn up on time and work hard and do anything they asked. And at the end I was offered a job if I wanted it when I did finish school and got £50 as a thanks.
I'm now working for a contracting company that maintians council vehicles as an apprentice mechanic. The range of vehicles is good, anything from small vans to trucks, tractor etc etc, prefer the trucks though. Everyday is normally different with different jobs on different vehicles so a good chance you'll broaden your knowledge.
I think you'd be better working somehwere like a local council if you can. You might end up taking some crappy jobs for a day or so, like a tea boy. but eventually they'll let you loose. Saying that haulage firms are also good to work for and learn as they don't turn a job down, and there not rush jobs as it's their own fleet. Factory times are quite often a joke.
Good Luck!
Mick
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Don't know of a on-line EPC, but I'm happy to supply a copy of mine if anyone wants it.
Western, does your EPC disc cover the 2.5TD and 200Tdi models? If so I'd be interested in a copy.
Cheers
Mick
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Personally, after driving both for at work I prefer the TD5. The new Puma, doesn't seem to have as good engine braking and there seems to be less room in the Puma. May be because it was a truck-cab version, I'm not sure. There's just something about the Puma that i don't like but I struggle to put my finger on it. Good excuse to do some mileage in it next time i can.
This was what I posted on another forum back in February!
Since then I've driven one for a bit longer, maybe 15-20 miles or so and the following is what I can add:
- 1st gear seems totally useless on the road, unless for towing but maybe that's just me.
- It was the truck-cab again and there isn't a lot of room, infact less than my '89 truck-cab 90.
- The dash sticks out too far and cuts out almost half the N/S wing mirror (this could have been because it was the truck-cab and the seat wouldn't go any further back). Made reversing a 20ft Ifor difficult.
- Personally I don't like the interior, doesn't look like a Defender to me.
Hope this helps.
Mick
- 1st gear seems totally useless on the road, unless for towing but maybe that's just me.
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Yep!
We do them everytime the vehicle comes in, no matter what vehicle it is, truck, van or 4x4. There in every 12 weeks as its part of the contract for the fleet anyway.
I grease my own props everytime i've got the vehilce over the ramp/pit for one reason or another.
As they say prevention is better than cure.
Mick
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Using a spare input shaft is always easier but if the LT77 box that you were going to cut it from is any good i wouldn't bother.
I normally do thigs by eye and feel, there are three gaps around the pressure plate where you can feel the edges of the friction plate. Get it so these all feel evenly spaced nip it up and check its not moved. Worked everytime for me so far.
If your not happy that way you can buy a universal clutch alignment tool from most motor factors for about £10.
Mick
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Thanks for that Litch, a mod in the pipeline me thinks!
Mick
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Litch,
Where did you get the removeable steering wheel kit from and how much was it, if you don't mind me asking? Does it use your original steering wheel or do you need a different one with a sperate boss?
Any details appreciated,
Cheers.
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At the minute i'm looking for some sort of security devices aswell.
Alarm is one of the main ones i'd suggest as its noise i an attraction many people making a potential thief think twice. Ideally you need many little things you can think of just to slow a thief down either so they give up or until someone has a chance to see them.
The Clutch Claw is a great idea, but unfortuanltly for anyone who knows what their doing it really isn't hard to drive without a clutch. As for the brake, the roads arent that busy at the times vehicles normally go missing or it could just be driven onto a trailer or low loader around the corner.
I was thinking along the lines of a line locker to lock the brakes on but this isn't ideal keeping the brakes under pressure for long periods of time.
Some people have used a heavy duty chain and padlock fron the steering wheel to a pedal but bolt croppers would make short work or a poor chain/lock. Removing the steering wheel with a pop ofd steering wheel is a good idea as you cant drive easily without one of those!
Any futher suggestions i'd like to hear as i think vehilce theft is becoming more common these days.......
Regards
Mick
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Worth a try back-bleeding if the above doesn't work. Get a small squirty oil can with a piece of windscreen washer pipe over the end. Open the bleed nipple on the slave clyinder, put the other end of the washer pipe onto the nippe and pump the oil can 5-10 times, this pushes the air in the system into the master cylinder allwoing it to escape. Then try bleeding it normally.
Beware
the master cylinder can overflow when doing this and brake fluid eats paintwork. Also when laid underneath, dont get the brake fluid in your face as it stings your eyes and doesn't taste nice.....The joys of midnight darkness and a carp torch.
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Steve, I'll be pricing the parts up later when i go into work. I'll let you know how much they come to and if you want me to get you some I can.
Cheers
Mick
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My rear axle breather is blocked on my 90, and won't clean out with the airline. Basically I'm going to replace it and extend the breather so i thought i might as well do the whole lot and do it properly.
I've seen the kits on eBay but i can get most of the bits for free through work, the joys of being in the 'trade' i suppose.
What thread are the axle breathers? Are the G/box and T/Box the same thread?
Cheers
Mick
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Thanks for the help guys and the welcome Guppy.
I'm no stranger to the spanners as it's how i earn a living, just landys at the moment. Used to have Suzuki SJ's and Vitara's.
Anyway, I got in from work about half hour ago and whipped the starter off. Connected it up to the jump starter and the solenoid definitly works but the starter doesn't spin. I'll be phoning round for one in the morning. Lucas wanted £140 plus VAT, and thats at trade. I know Craddocks and Paddocks are about £75 - £90 but I'm going to try local and save on the high postage.
Cheers
Mick
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Thanks for confirming that Western.
Regards
Mick
the master cylinder can overflow when doing this and brake fluid eats paintwork. Also when laid underneath, dont get the brake fluid in your face as it stings your eyes and doesn't taste nice.....
LT77 quiery....
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Evening all,
Tongiht I've noticed my LT77 box has been difficult to get accross the gate into reverse, all other gears select as they should. It first happened last month whilst offroading, although no deep water was driven through.
My first port of call in the monring is to change the gearbox oil. But, I was wondering if anyones had this problem and it turned out to be a fault on the 'gate' mechanism?
Any ideas welcome.
Regards
Mick