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Gingerlandy

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Posts posted by Gingerlandy

  1. Im doing mine in about 4 weeks, im just waiting all the information to come through. I was really shocked by the cost. The test fee is £115 plus training fees, which for the course i am doing ( 12 hours traning inclusive of trailer hire but in my own vehicle) is around another £600. This does seam to be a rip off but is the average price i have found. Also the course i am doing is for people with experiance of towing and not for begginers or the cost would be even more and involve around 30 hours of training. I have towed trailers of all sizes since i passed my test at 18 in 2000. I had no idea of the trailer laws and nor did the company i worked for where i did most of my towing.

    Sounds quiet tough even only did test few years earlier seams so unfair! Looks like there is no way round it, I would simalr to towed all sorts as grew up on a farm. better just bite the bullet and get some proper lesons

  2. 3500kg gross rember not the actual weight at the time 3050kg (is the gross) for a 110 defender and a trailer with a gross of 750kg not an empty 3500kg (i use to think that as long as you were under 3500kg then you were ok but you are not) this realy means that you can only realy tow them little trailers like what halfords sell i am one of those who realy needs to take the test as i do push my luck some times been saying that for

    Has any one taken the trailer test recently I need to get round to it at some point and was woundering what it involed

  3. Hi all

    I am looking at upgrading my Disco with various parts for general off road usage. Nothing to hardcore, just mainly greenlaning and a few pay and play days (more the greenlaning side though). This is a pretty standard 300tdi at the moment, only having the EGR removed.

    As a general rule I don't want to go over the top and I have an idea as to what I think is needed and what I think just looks good.

    My thoughts are as follows:

    Needed

    1. Rock sliders - On a pay and play it was very apparent that the sills get bashed so I figure this is a good place to start. Jackable ones?

    2. Off road tyres - Slipped a bit on a pay and play (already bought some of these though ;) )

    3. Diff guards

    Nice to have

    1. Winch bumper and winch - Looks cool but it also will help on greelaning and recovery. Also the stock bumper got a bit knocked on a pay and play.

    2. CB Radio - For communication between cars when out green laning (again, already bought)

    3. Lifted suspension - 2" max I think. Heard many stories conflicting with each other about what you do and don't need. If I went lifted I would probably get corrected radius and trailing arms, double cardon prop shaft for the front (will a TD5 Disco 2 fit?) as well as lengthened brake hoses (your thoughts are welcomed)

    4. Heavy duty rear bumper - So it would take the knocks. Jackable?

    5. Steering guard - Is this really needed?

    6. Snorkle - Again it looks cool, but is it really needed unless you are wading?

    7. Remove the anti roll bars - Increased articulation, but what other impact will this have?

    8. Rear tank guard - Currently has a towbar so this will offer a little protection possibly?

    If I were to just get heavy duty springs rather than a lift kit, would these give a little lift and be better generally than standard springs? Do I even need a lift?

    Should I remove the tow bar and get a detachable one instead? If I do that, then my departure angle will be increase, but the rear bumper may take a bashing and require a heavy duty one.

    Please, your thoughts are welcomed.

    I would really advise rock sliders as did not have them on my disco on a trail and recked sill was u shaped, replaced sill with box section which has sorted that weakness. That and two inch lift kit she nice bit of kit now

  4. hi ,my '86 3.5 efi now has the oil light coming on when on tick over after thr engine has been running for a while,the engine is a bit noisey and done 99000 miles,should i try a thicker oil as i dont know whats in it at the moment.also how difficult is it to change the oil pump gears with engine in situ.engine still has plenty of power but worried about the light a little.

    cheers

    ian

    Just a idea have you changed the switch with a new one as that may be at fault had a simliar problem with a old tractor and was just the switch.

  5. Ok may seem like a silly question to some, but to someone like me who hasn't done off roading before, your information will be greatfuly received.

    On a 3.9 efi auto with LPG what preperations are needed for mild off roading?

    All help appreciated

    Cheers

    Shaun

    Rock sliders are a must for most off roading. My disco now has a banna shaped sill and bend door bottom. Going to remove sill comlpetely and replace with some nice box section. If you hunt around you can get them for under 200 quid well worth it for the protection

  6. the vc i'll have is out of a borg warner, so unless yours is borg warner it wont be any good for you.

    I have a spare bw transfer box from 1993 range rover. Going to use old transfer box on disco with second hand box auto box so its just sitting on my work shop floor just name a price

  7. Yes they are the same.

    Tranfer boxes are interchangeable, but are different lengths so take care to ensure your propshafts still fit!

    Jon

    So if I use the LT230 i should not need to change the props?

  8. Does any one know if a auto box from a 1993 range rover will fit a k plate v8 disco auto. It has the later borg warner transfer case on it. Can this be swaped for the LT230 or just leave the Borg warner on ?

  9. Gaurdian are fantastic to deal with, I've yet to hear a badf word said about them. While the floor is out swap the a frame bush as it's a pig to do from underneath. HD springs and dampers are a great idea, if you do fancy any off roading a set of diff gaurds (around £25 ish each) and a front steering gaurd (£80ish) are great upgrades. And very cheap. Weld and upgrade everything, the sills are best replaced with box section steel 60*120*1400 x3mm thick, very easy to do and quite cheap, so now worries abouthaving to replace them in the future, I have just done mine and I have never welded before, I had the help of a few mates to guide me through techniques and done a bit of practice pieces. I have only just done my inner sills and front floor and back floor.

    If you want anyhelp putting a to do list togther just say.

    I would recomend being very hard and writing do a list of all parts that need renewed and all parts that need welding, once you've got it you can then cost it up and see what can be replaced with stronger items or upgraded.

    Regards Andi K

    Have you got any picsof the sills being replaced ? just bent my old sill and was thinking of replacing it with box section as well.

  10. As Mr Monster has said - depends on the year of your Discovery... The k-plate disco I had was a 10spline rear axle, so yes, that should fit fine - best to count the splines on the end of the halfshaft to be sure tho.

    Mark

    Thanks will keep me going till the next one breaks !!!!

  11. Trying to find my head around the SVA

    I am building a 100 inch hybrid using a range rover chassis and defender body panels. I would like to keep the vehicle registration if possible.

    Using the DVLA web site, registering radically altered vehicles section, we have the points system.

    I am using the original engine, chassis, suspension, axles, transmission and steering assembly. Using the scoring components, I have 9 points, not using the chassis points.

    With the highlighted text below, am I correct in thinking that any modifications to the original chassis, the vehicle will then automatically be allocated a Q plate?

    From DVLA Site

    Allocating a vehicle registration mark

    The vehicle must score eight or more points to retain the original registration mark. If less than eight points are scored or a second-hand or modified chassis or altered monocoque bodyshell is used, an enhanced single vehicle approval (ESVA), single vehicle approval (SVA) or motorcycle single vehicle approval (MSVA) certificate will be required to register the vehicle. A 'Q' prefix registration number will be allocated.

    Scoring components

    The following values will be allocated to the major components used:

    • chassis or body shell (body and chassis as one unit - monocoque ie direct replacement from the manufacturer) (original or new) = 5 points

    • suspension = 2 points

    • axles = 2 points

    • transmission = 2 points

    • steering assembly = 2 points

    • engine = 1 point

    Where there is evidence that two vehicles have been welded together to form one (ie 'cut and shut') a 'Q' mark will be allocated. ESVA, SVA or MSVA will be required.

    What, if any, modifications are allowed to a standard chassis [galvanising, addition of extra brackets, etc].

    I have contacted Swansea to query this point, but I get the standard non committal reply. Has anyone had a recent SVA test and had this problem or can give an informed reply?

    Many thanks Alan

    I have a Series 3 hybrid on rang rover running gear not sure how to get it on the road either might just leave it a range rover and run the risk. I would be interested to now how you get on with the SVA

  12. If you are using a series tbox and it is in the same place relative to the diffs then yes. If not then standards props will not fit.

    Its all range rover running gear sounds like series prop will not fit

  13. I reckon the windows in the rear would prevent you getting away with that. Easiest probably to whack a truck cab on it so it's a pickup, then sell it back on after ;)

    Got a truck cab on another landy hastle but might get it through the sva by the sounds of things

  14. They did say to me (before i went there) that i was welcome to drive it down, but if it failed, then you couldn't take it out on the road (unless you fixed it and they re-tested it), so there was a chance i could be stranded in Bristol docks.

    so i trailered it. They had to check the emmissions and stuff, so they just said to me to go for a drive around the trading estate in it to warm the engine up. a really friendly bunch of lads there, they were quite interested in it (the 90) actually, commenting on the galv'd chassis and stuff. think they quite liked it.

    mine was SVA'd as a 90 hard top, so i did the "commercial truck" test.... half the price and half as slack. it passed with a full external roll cage on. they said it would have failed (with the cage) had it been a "car" test... worth considering.

    So if I take the seats out my CSW Hybrid and put it through it will be less hastle as a commercial truck then can put seats back at a later date?

  15. You insure it on the VIN number (as opposed to the reg plate) and if you get stopped by the law you show them the booking for the SVA test.

    i admit, i was a little sceptical about trying that, but was assured by the SVA people that it's perfectly do-able.

    whilst i was at the place, several Japanses grey import cars came in, and none of them had plates on (although they did have tradeplates on some IIRC), the drivers obviously work at the docks where the cars come in, as they knew the SVA team well and it was a well oiled machine.

    Thanks for that will let you Know When How I get only a couple months building Left!

  16. Absolutely! A far better option, and not hard to fit either.

    On Tiny, my old 2dr pick-up, the choke had to be on for quite some time. Once I fitted the SU's the difference in driving and economy ws vastly improved.

    Will do that then rebuild them with new needles and seals a while ago see if that improves things

  17. All the Zenith Stromberg's I have had dealings with only have the choke on one carb, hence why they sound so awful when starting from cold.

    SU's on the other hand do have a link so they both choke.

    I have a set of sus on another engine may be worth putting them on?

  18. This could be so mainy things and any more detail you can add would help, year of R/R, misfiring, poor performance etc, you could check the basics like oil level in carb dashpots, are the carb dampers free to lift and drop or sticky, contact breaker gap unless electronic ignition fitted, plug condition, even the engine earths could be a potential cause, does the engine spin at speed on the starter or slow down after starting, I had a problem some time ago when the choke operating lever fell off the second carb, it would start then become a blooter of ! until warm

    It seams to turn over fine, the engine has been parked up for a while, it got an electronic ingition and I have changed the dizy cap and ht leads. I might clean up the next to see if this helps. Sounds like when it is trying start only one carb is working. Once it is going it is fine its just getting it going

  19. Changed the coil or made any changes to the wiring?

    Early engines appear to use a 6V coil with ballast resistor - during starting the ignition switch supplies 12 volts to the coil to aid sparking whilst cranking to counter the battery voltage dropping.

    If the LT connections to the coil are swapped over this will result in 6 volts for starting and 12 volts for running resulting in poor starting and a very hot coil whilst running and eventual damage.

    I have changed the wiring a bit as the range rover running gear is now in a series 3 Hybrid. Would the above be true for electronic ingnition as this is a 1983 model

  20. If that is an efi pump then the pressure will be way too high unless it is regulated. At a guess you should be running about 7psi for carbs.

    Steve

    The fuel pump is a Facet Electric pump would this produce to much pressure with out a regulator. There is a a return back to the fuel tank which is working.

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