Ben1982

Hi, Can anyone tell me if the propshafts on a 300TDi should slide easily on the center telescopic joint? I have had to remove the rear shaft and had been told that it should slide like a stiff damper to allow it to move over the pin in the rear diff but mines almost solid tight and will only budge with a hard hit from a hammer. Reason for removing the shaft was to replace the rubber coupling that looked like it had twisted and had split. What is the correct 'stiffness' for the shaft? Easy to slide or needing a wallop? Thanks Ben

Thanks for everyones suggestions, I have tried to reattach the clip but can't get it in, even using the suggested tool. I also have a fair bit of movement up and down on the clutch fork, I take it this isn't good? The fork will move all the way to the front of the bellhousing, but only half way to the back is this normal? Looks like removing the gear box/engine to have a proper look. What would be the safest/best way to do this? Been told I can, remove engine, tip engine back with it still in place or remove the gearbox. Any others? Thanks for everyones help Ben

1996 Discovery, 300TDI. I have been struggling with this for the last 6 weekends and would appreciate any help/advice. story so far. The clutch on the Disco failed whilst driving and it was found to be the release fork had broken through at the pivot point, took it to a mate who suggested he also replaced the clutch as it was starting to show signs of wear. Got it all back together but couldn't get it to completly bleed, air was being introduced on the upstroke of the clutch pedal. Replaced the slave cylinder, still not working, would bleed fine but then after a few minutes of driving would get air back into the system. Found master cylinder was leaking under the reservoir replaced this, still no joy. Eventually found a small crack at the end of the clutch pipe by the damper. Replaced the pipe but still not working. Finally found the new slave was overshooting its travel and letting air in past the seals. Reconditioned the old slave and now have the hydraulics bleed and air-free but still no clutch Pressing the pedal causes it to go straight to the floor and not return. If I connect a pressure bleeder to the system the clutch works correctly. The piston moves fine in the slave. Have found that when the guy refitted the clutch he didn't fit the clip that holds the piston rod to the fork, is this going to cause me a major problem? If I move the clutch fork in the bell house it moves freely but there is no resistance, should there be? How does the slave cylinder get pushed back in, or is drawn in by the return action of the master? My questions are: Does this sound like a hydraulics issue? or a mechanical clutch issue? If a mechanical problem is there an easy way to get to the clutch without dropping the engine/ gearbox out completly? I have several jacks but no engine hoist. Taking the vehicle elsewhere isn't going to be very easy and would prefer to do the work myself. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions Ben