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Maarten88

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Posts posted by Maarten88

  1. I've got a Nissan SD33 straight six diesel in my IIB, together with the five speed gearbox. Fits nicely with a small cut in the upper rails, ie the one on top of the chassis itself. It needed two custom made propshafts, which set me back €100 a piece. It now cruises at 90 km/h all day.

    It is the engine out of an 1980's Nissan Patrol.

    Hth

    Maarten

  2. After spending two days in bed with 'zinc fever', caused by some quick welding of zinc treated steel, I'm wondering what everybody uses for protection during welding. I'm looking for a welding helmet, as I am currently using a hand-held mask-not good. I only weld once in a couple of months, but enjoy doing it very much.

    Does anyone use special breathing filters, ie Adflo? , other masks? For the amount of welding I do, I find it hard to justify the E500 plus for a Speedglas + Adflo system..

    Zinc oxide is a tad worse for you than normal welding fumes, but they can´t be very good for you either, although I know one welder who swears by doing a bit of stick welding to cure his cold...

    So what do you use against welding fumes, filters or your nose.

    Maarten

  3. That refridgeration unit did cross my mind, but I know exactly what you mean when you say they're noisy... As my IIB is already 3 meters high, I'm a bit hesitant to increase that. Over 3 meters is also a new toll tariff in France, a country I don't live in but go on holiday quite often.

    I maybe forgot to mention my IIB is 24 volts, because of the Japanese engine. So if I could run the electromagnetic clutch of an inverter, and buy a 24 v fan, which I suspect will draw much more amps, I should be in business?

    Thanks again,

    Maarten

  4. Thanks for all the replies. I'm more inclined to go the scrappy route, I've got a 3.3 diesel engine, so I thing it can cope with the extra load.

    The electromagnetic clutch only needs a small amperage, doesn't it? So I can get away with a 12 volt system using a inverter?

    Regards

    Maarten

  5. Have checked upon the camper roofmounted airco's , they come in at around 1000 euros. Mostly they work on 220, or use a 12 volt inverter. I guess I could make that a 24-220 inverter, but it still would be a huge inverter. Also, there's the matter of the 1000 euros...

    Checked on the vintage air solution, seems pretty well made and the cost around 900 dollars. Still a lot of money. What is wrong with the RaRo system?

    Have to check that electronic/electro magnetic clutch.

    thanks,

    Maarten

  6. As I experienced last summer, when I took my 110" FC to Portugal, it gets quite hot in the cab. This gets quite tiring, and driving 3000 kms with the windows open and the vents full open is not quite relaxing as well. So, there are two options:

    A) Don't go anywhere when it's hot outside.

    B) Install some form of airco.

    I tried google, but haven't found a good write-up. As far as I can tell, installing it consists of salvaging a complete system, and installing that into my FC, and than having a airco place fill the system up for me. I'd need to plug in a separate vent system with a fan, as I currenctly don't have one.

    Is it that simple, and has anyone tried this before?

    Also, as my FC is 24v, the only electrical component I need is the fan, right?

    Regards

    Maarten

  7. I'm in the process of fitting a heater to my IIB, but first I need to locate a suitable place for the heater itself. How long can the heater hoses be to remain effective? Is for instance two meters too long? It is not a standard Land Rover, but a 24 volt Nissan Patrol heater, which was very effective in said Nissan.

    What do you think?

    Maarten

  8. Hi Donald, BTW (19%) is VAT, the BPM is around 30-40%. If you look at a 110 double cab, chances are that there is no BPM on it, as it might be classed as a commercial vehicle, which don't pay BPM. Also, in the Netherlands companies can claim back VAT(BTW).

    I think your supplier will be able to advise you on these tax matters.

    Maarten

    Hi all,

    I'm considering buying a replacement mota as I need to rationalise the fleet and less wagons means less backup for when ones goes belly up. This means one of the fewer machines needs to be more reliable. :rolleyes:

    I'm doing a bit of an exercise to see if there are still decent savings buying one abroad and importing it.

    My Theory:

    Advise Supplier that I want a UK Spec Vehicle and it will be exported to UK (Double Cab 110).

    I guess that means I won't have to pay BPM & BTW in Holland but have to pay UK VAT when I get it back here.

    Looking at dutch websites, I guess their prices already include their equivalent of VAT (which is neither BPM or BPW or have I got that wrong?) so I should be able to subtract that too?

    I am a bit confused about our own VAT - I thought it was payable on all vehicles but companies can reclaim of commercials... However, I bought a 90 from a Franchise a few years ago and they told me that I had to pay VAT unless they fitted some windows in the back...

    Any tips or suggestions from folk wiser than me, much appreciated!

  9. I'm a bit lost a the moment. I have a 24v camper project, and I would like to add a 12v leisure circuit. Nothing big (ie no winch), just a fridge, stereo etc.

    Can I use a 24v to 12v converter (big) with a relay powered by charge light, or do I have to install a second 12v alternator?

    Kind regards,

    Maarten

  10. The feeling I get from Ebay and the likes, is that LR's are more expensive in Holland. Disco's and P38 are mostly diesel, but there are some 4.6 HSE's around, some with LPG conversion. I personally would rather eat my 88 IIA than go to an official dealer. A usefull site discussing Dutch specialists and dealer is blubberweb.nl , where companies are rated. Please let me know if you need more info,

    Maarten

  11. Someone on a Dutch forum gave me this idea, to modify a wallpaper stripper (cheap) to take some sort of tube to resemble a proper steamcleaner (expensive) . I'd replace the steam pad with a piece of copper tube with a flattened end, with some sort of cover to avoid burning my hands. What do you think of this, and fpr what sort of wallpaper stripper should I be looking in terms of capacity, and power (watts) .

    Kind regards

    Maarten

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