chuff
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Posts posted by chuff
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If you have the option then buy a Hella brand socket - they actually work for more than a week.
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On 6/13/2022 at 10:24 AM, western said:
No spring shackles on a 90,110.
Nope its for the alternator adjuster link to engine block on a Defender spec 200tdi. As in the replies above.
On a Mercedes Sprinter.
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1 hour ago, western said:
It's a spacer tube not a bolt,
Bolt goes through it and holds the shackle bracket to the chassis.
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Awesome detective work. Cheers Lads.
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Doing the roof makes a huge difference.
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The OP picture- spacer looks like a chassis bolt from a Mercedes van. They are used to tighten the bolt to stretch to a preload.
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1 either side of the rear body behind the corner panels for the lights.
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I have used lanoguard spray and also use waxoyl regularly.
I mix wayoyl 50 50 with new oil, otherwise it flakes off after 6 months, personally I think it's carp and does nothing especially over even a tiny amount of rust. The lanoguard is different, it dries very sticky and clingy and goes on thin so it gets into the panel laps and penetrates surface rust. Lanolin doesn't dry out like petrochemicals.
Is it worth it? No probably not. The best rust proofing is oil and dust. Ever scraped around a gearbox or steering box? Factory paint still on the chassis there while the rest of the car is rotten.
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Princess transport vehicle👸👸
I never tracked down this plug, everything works so I didn't go looking for trouble.
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
This has all those colours on:
http://militarylightweight.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Fig 139 Circuit Diagram 12v model.jpg
Green/light green is to do with the flasher, purple is constant live, green/white is indicator.
Reckon it is for the hazard switch, think it was an optional extra on series vehicles, has your got a hazard switch?
Lucas wiring colours were pretty consistent for many years.
Mine is a coil sprung, the hazard is on the right below the steering wheel.
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
I've got a feeling I have one like this on our 110 but it only has something like two pins connected.
Found a pic but I'm not sure it's the same now.
Mike
I have this plug also, mine had one for the handbrake white/yellow being used but the others are blank like this.
I'll have a better look tomorrow and see if the wires go through to the plug inside.
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4X dark green
2x light green/white
2x light green/dark green
1x white
2x purple
My educated guess would be oil temp/ oil press and battery condition for a county v8. but is it??
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Hi,
What's this plug for. I've been looking at the diagram and I'm still stumped. It's never been connected.
Many thanks.
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I regularly use Lechler 29107 in black, it requires an overcoat- of your choice.
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You can narrow down which circuit is causing problems by clamping the front or rear hoses.
When bleeding a troublesome system proper ram the pedal down as fast and hard as you can, there's a good chance a big slug of air will come out.
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What's wrong with the existing latch?
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I smeared 3M 08509 windscreen seal in the crack/joint at the lower of my rear door handle. Let it harden a week or so and wipe out the excess with brake cleaner. My door has the smaller recess mind you.
Don't put epoxy resin in there, the doors flex and it'll fail then be Impossible to remove.
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On 9/18/2017 at 6:02 PM, jackmac said:
Hi all
Having a problem with a lack of vacuum assistance on my 300tdi 90 (conversion, running td5 axles with vented front disks for what it's worth) . Having to absolutely stand on the brakes to slow down, it's not great.
So far I've replaced the brake servo with a brand new one (not blue box, replaced o ring to master cylinder as well), tested that there is vacuum, tested the one way valve. Nothing has worked! Pumping the pedal until hard when the engine is off, then maintaining pressure as I start the engine and the brake pedal doesn't change at all. When I checked the vacuum I wasn't sure how strong it's meant to be, I found it much more noticeable with the engine a couple of hundred rpm above idle.
Incidentally I also noticed when I changed the brake pads a couple of weeks ago that it took a herculean effort to push the pistons back in, which isn't a problem I've had before. The caliper pistons don't look that bad to me either. Not sure if that could be connected?
The vacuum pump At idle should make a red swollen ring on the pad of your thumb and hurt enough that you remove said thumb.
The brake pedal should sink on start-up as vacuum servo assistance is delivered.
Exercise the front pads with a pry bar and someone pressing Hard on the peddle, they could be jammed and you only have rear brakes.
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On 11/20/2021 at 1:13 PM, Kaci said:
So we are having masive brake problems so when we are sat with engine off the pedal feels okay then we run the engine on a test drive and the brake pedal on first pump feels good then take your foot of and pump again and nothing we have changed the servo all the cylinders shoes checked the vaccine pump is all good and no splits in pipes I’m now completely lost any help ????
Have you rebuilt the Master Cylinder and put a seal in the wrong way round?
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Very happy with the finish from GalvanizeUK in Pontefract. Expensive, but they took the time and care to turn out an excellent product - I'm well impressed!
I would highly recommend them over any of the others in my opinion.
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Could somebody enlighten me as to where the Factory hi lift jack in a black bag goes behind the seats in a 90.
I have 2 steel strap hooks on the bulkhead, are they to do with it?
Many thanks.
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On 10/5/2021 at 1:24 PM, landroversforever said:
Probably worth your time having a chat with some of the Series/Defender restoration places to see who they use for stuff that's staying exposed and not painted.
That IS me.
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Holy moly that D3 is getting some treatment, I certainly wouldn't have the patience for that!
I have contacted UK galvanising, but might try a call to the others mentioned here.
The vertical rear light capping is indeed hot dip galv, its the worst I have ever seen. Was perfect smooth chemical stripped when it went there.
Any Spangle galv you see today on gates etc. is done in China!! Must be something to do with the lead content then.
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Location is cotswolds.
No it's bare galv for my old 90. Spangle is an effect of only zinc, lead and antimony is/was added as a wetter and run off agent.
I think the problem is the kettle temp not being high enough and it's solidifying instantaneously.
There must be one in the UK who still get spange!? We did it until 10 years ago.
Attached image gate frames from around 2011 - compared to this years offerings from the same factory.
Brake brake brake.... another probably bindingly obvious question :-)
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Clamp the flex pipes off in turn to eliminate each corner / rear. If the travel goes then that corner / axle is your problem. If it doesn't then it's up-stream.
Personally I would bet that it needs bleeding (don't be afraid to proper RAM the pedal down once or twice when bleeding to get trapped air out) or that britpart servo is shorter inside than the previous one and needs the nipple lengthened. I do not use britpart brake components.
There's most certanly nothing wrong with the valve, even if it doesn't work it still won't effect braking.