Gavin Hatton
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Posts posted by Gavin Hatton
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Thanks for that. As soon as funds permit I shall be placing an order.
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Hey All,
I'm in need of a new rear door for my Land Rover and am not 100% sure about the differing part numbers. Looking at several pictures I can't seem to see any difference in them but would not want to corrected when I came to fit it.
The door I am after is to fit a 'S' plate 1998 110 Hardtop. Preferably glazed but doesn't need to be heated.
Thanks,
Gavin
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No worries, thanks for the help. I'm managed to source one from a friend who's just fitted a mud dash and says it was in his 'to go to the tip' pile but will save it.
Thanks again,
Gavin
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Potentially I've got that kicking about in the garage having fitted a mud dash if you want one.
How much would you want for it?, if you could have a look that'd be great.
Failing that i'll order one up from LR Series, thanks western.
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Hey All,
I'm looking for the part number for the bit of plastic that covers the wiring in the middle of the dash in a Pre Td5 defender, where the cigarette lighter sits.
If it helps see attached image, the bit I'm after is circled (not my land rover, just one I found on Google Images)
Thanks,
Gavin
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Hey All,
I've been looking at Eberspacher night heaters for some time now and due to different people saying different things I've become a little confused.
Firstly I'm looking to get a D2, simply as there seems to be more of these about than the D1LC. The confusion comes from the fact that apparently some of these units will only run for 1 hour at a time before shutting down, where as I'm after a unit that will run continually.
Having read the Eberspacher manual for the 701 series 7 day timer it says it can provide continual running but a Eberspacher dealer on eBay states that a D2 he's currently selling with a 701 controller will only run for 1 hour at a time?
Anyone who has a Eberspacher night heater (D1LC or D2) that mite know otherwise please let me know,
All comments/suggestion and info welcome,
Thanks,
Gavin
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I don't know about the technical ins and outs but from examples I've seen having a side exit exhaust so far forward causes lots of sut and much to be left all over the body work rear of the exhaust exiting point.
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Thanks for the replies, I removed the charger from the battery when it reached nearly 16volt and given that the battery was supplied in and 'as-new' state from Equicar having being removed from a Land Rover, so the battery was filled as it should be and the battery then settled at 13.6 I decided although maybe not fully charged it was charged enough to go into the 110.
Having placed a second 110AH leisure battery on charge since the charger only got as high as about 14.5 before going into maintenance mode, so i think the higher voltage must be something to do with the larger capacity of my new starter battery.
All in all I've now got my new battery fitted and the Land Rover now fires into life much quicker and with only one shot of glow plugs, the result I was after.
Thanks again for the useful help/comments,
Gavin
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I'm using a Challenge Xtreme MCH12A as seen here
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Hey All,
I recently bought a new battery for my 110 and though I'd give it a charge with my mains battery charge in the house before fitting it to ensure it was in a fully charged state.
After having had it on charge for the best part of a day with no sign of the charger saying the battery was full I decided to check the voltage across the terminals (with charger attached) I was shocked to see there was 15.7v!
I then removed the charger and the battery settled at about 13.1v after a few minuets.
My question is does this sound normal, over 15 volt to charge a 12 v battery?
If it helps the battery is a Genuine Land Rover 950CCA seen here
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I have 285/75R16 fitted with no Mod's, no loss of steering lock and they're within the wheel arches.
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Hi
You can also get the heating pads from ebay.
I got the Waeco [sp] heated seat kit from ebay, it's the same as exmore trim sell only cheaper!
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I got them from a friend who bought them from a place that is no closed but could be sourced from any Ashtree dealer. I had to replace the passenger side glass and after speaking to Ashtree they recommended Carlyle Bus and Coach Ltd. I imagine if you speak to them they'll be able to better help you.
You'll need a different mirror arm to hold the large mirror heads that I had and the Hercules blind spot mirror (which I also had to replace at the same time) can be sourced here
There's a range of glasses that the mirror heads can take. In the photo above I've got standards but when when replacing them I opted for convex to further improve visibility, all glass have the option of heated or non-heated. The Hercules blind spot mirror simply clamps to the main mirror head, so there's no chance it can fall off.
I'll dig the mirrors out later and try to get a part number off of them to help you with your enquiries.
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I had a set of Ash Tree mittor heads and Hercules blind spot mirrors, they worked a treat.
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You could always move the original washer jet and install a second jet in the gromet'd up hole for where the wipers would go if your landy had the steering wheel on the other side.
It's a really simple mod (took me 10mins) and cheap, all you need is a second washer jet, some washer hose and a t-peice. All in all the job was done for less than a tenna.
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A friend of mines dad as a similar setup on his insurance as he if often ill, it's basically an 'any driver' odd on to his policy This means that anyone can drive his car third party with his permission, kind of the opposite of driving other cars third party.
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I too had this discussion with Adrian Flux. The 2 things I came away remembering was if you do drive a vehicle that has no further insurance on it and you get out, it is technically uninsured. Worth remembering maybe if you stop at a shop or in a garage.
The other thing was on my policy it says any motor car, so Im abit cautious to use it for driving a lorry or a van for example as there may be a potential hole there for them to pick at if you do have an accident.
H
I think that's what the 12L engine size thing is about, it would enable the use of just about all cars, but not other vehicles such as lorries etc.
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I'm with Adrian Flux for my Land Rover as being fully comp gives me the ability to drive cars not owned by me third party. I've spoken to them about this and they say that it can be any vehicle so long as I have an adequate driving license, the vehicle does not need cover from it's owner.
It mite also be worth asking about engine size restrictions as I can only other vehicles with an engine size not exceeding 12 liters, can't see that ever being an issue for myself but it may still be worth double checking as if your insurer has a similar restriction you'd want to know about it.
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Thanks for all the replies folks, some food for thought there.
I'm not sure I like the clear LED bars, would need to see a couple fitted in order to make a decision...
Does anyone, besides Ralph, have any photos of their light bars fitted, I'm very shallow
so its got to look good as well as being functional....Ross
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IKEA sell strips of LEDs for under kitchen cabinet lighting... I think its about £16 for a set of 4 x 30cm strips...
they are 12 volt and draw tiny amounts of power, and becasue they are flat strips you can stick it to the inside of your roof panel with industrial strength double sided tape...
Try £40 odd quid.
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/00119419
I'd be tempted except for the price.
BnQ also sell the same thing, though for the same price range.
Regarding the LED lights from VWP did I see someone on here do a write up about there installation of them?
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I made a bar which sat across the grille mountings, but behind the grille, attached at each side with two steady arms going down. This has two arms which poke out downwards through the grille and have the lights on the end. It all fixes with the existing grille screws. PM me if you want it, as it doesn't fit anymore. Postage for the bar, + £20 for the pair of Ring 55W spots that go on them!
PM Sent
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Hey All,
I'm seriously considering getting a La Salle headlining but before I take the plunge and order one I'd like to be able to see and 'feel' one fitted and as was wondering if anybody on here as one fitted that I could come and have a look at.
I'm in the Loughborough, Leicester area but don't mind coming to you to have a look.
Any help welcome,
Thanks,
Gavin
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I have some Series II 88" Hard Top panels that are no longer needed, I'm looking for around £60 for the pair. They are both very straight and in good overall condition. I'm in the Leicester area for collection other wise they could be sent by courier at cost.
PM me if interested.
so its got to look good as well as being functional....
Defender 110 1998 Hard top Rear Door
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
Does anyone know what the difference between these two doors is?
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Body_and_Panels/Rear_safari_door_-_unglazed_-_to_AA270226.html
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Body_and_Panels/Rear_safari_door_-_unglazed_-_from_AA242000_to_1A622423.html
I've looked at others on eBay to try and find any differences in the older doors vs the newer ones. It seems that the lock position is different and some come fitted for two hinges and some for three?
What I'm basically saying is would the 2007U door fit my 300Tdi (even if I need to make holes for the middle hinge) or should I opt for the 3007U door?
Thanks again,
Gavin