windnwaves

It's "Me" again, Got the tow bar fitted and wiring sorted. Now I was wondering what I needed to change to make it 100% legal. I have heard that to make a warning light for the indicators work on dashboard you need to swap a relay somewhere ( or do something else ! ). Any suggestions as apparently the boys in blue around my neck of the woods are getting a bit keen on checking 4x4's towing trailers and the finer details.. One or two accidents have happened locally with overloaded or "iffy" trailers so everyone is to blame..... I'm sure that my local LR dealer would help but I would like to check out the cheaper options, once I know what is required, first.. Thanks

HI, Yes it is the vehicle connector pinout I require not the towbar/ball one but thatnks for posting the PDF, I will save that for future use... Cheers Phil

Hi, Thanks for reading this... Just fitted a a none genuine towbar to my year 2000 FL. It has just a wire from the tow bar socket to splice into to the vehicle electrics. I have found the (I think !) connector that the genuine LR towbar electrics connect to, I just wondered if anyone can direct me to a "pin out" for the socket.. All the wires are BLACK ! If the connectors are available it would be nice to do the job properly and just plug in rather than "Scotch Lok" Thanks in anticipation Phil

SORTED !!! Hi Folks, Problem found and solved. It was the connector (black wire) that connects on to the lamp PCB. For some reason just that one had become distorted and wasn't making contact but the other 2 were OK.. I reformed it and now all is well.. Cheers Phil

Thanks for the replies folks... Will try and get the light unit out and have a look.. Not noticed any water marks on head lining so it may be just a bad contact... Thanks again... Will report back Ta, Phil

Hi folks, I seem to have a slight problem with internal lights on my 1999 1.8 petrol FL. It is something I've noticed for a while now but have only just got around to trying to sort out.. The interior lights come on when you open the door and go off when you turn the key and start the engine... If you then try and switch on any of the 3 front lights in the headlining, none come on. The one over the rear seating area appears fine... Any thoughts please.... Cheers, Phil

Not just me then, I have the same thing. Backing out of the drive onto the road I need to put on full lock and the Freelander stops even though it is down hill. Must keep my eye on it in case it gets any more of a problem. Phil

Nope no grinding noise, worked perfectly then half an hour later when I tried to open the door, it didn't drop properly.... Can't see anything obvious but taking the slack out of the wire seems to resolve the problem, just don't want to tension it up by some method only to find out that the cable snaps when it gets all the way down to the bottom !!!!!! Phil

Sorry about reposting this, stuck it on the end of a previous posting were it most likely will get get missed. My V plate 5 door has just started playing up with a back window problem If I pull the door handle the window drops but only around 1/2" , not enough to allow the door to open... I have found that I can just push the window down another 1/2" or so just by putting a little downwards force on the glass with the flat palm of my hand. it then stops solidly and allows the door to open. I have had the inner door panel off and there appears to be extra slack in the cable nearest to the door catch, if I try to hold the cable to remove the slack(around 1/2" or so) the window drops to the required position so electrically all seems OK I could possibly make a spacer to take the slack out of the cable by holding the outer sleeve away further but I would rather correct the problem rather than bodge it !! I've had a look at the LR workshop manual and I can't seem to find out anything regarding the wire cable operation. It just goes on about the window glass possition etc but nothing obvious about the arrangement for the wire run. Any suggestion of a possible cause / cure..... I was wondering if the cable may have a clamp somewhere at the end which may have slipped or similar but I can't see one.. Any ideas appreciated... Phil

Not really the same problem but still rear window mech related...... My V plate 5 door has just started playing up with a back window problem If I pull the door handle the window drops but only around 1/2" , not enough to allow the door to open... I have found that I can just push the window down another 1/2" or so just by putting a little downwards force on the glass with the flat palm of my hand. it then stops solidly and allows the door to open. I have had the inner door panel off and there appears to be extra slack in the cable nearest to the door catch, if I try to hold the cable to remove the slack(around 1/2" or so) the window drops to the required position so electrically all seems OK I could possibly make a spacer to take the slack out of the cable by holding the outer sleeve away further but I would rather correct the problem rather than bodge it !! Any suggestion of a possible cause / cure..... I was wondering if the cable may have a clamp somewhere at the end which may have slipped or similar but I can't see one.. Any ideas appreciated... Phil

Hi Blippie, Job Done, couldn't see the connector on first "quick inspection".. Took about 10 mins to do, not overly happy about how the front of the housing seats to the door with the MEGA gasket. If it whistles when traveling I may have to mod the gasket slightly but apart from that all is fine. New roof bars fitted at same time (10 mins)... If only everything was as easy.. Phil

Cheers Blippie I'll try to reduce abit of forum traffic by posting any mirror info etc on my original newbie help request.. powerfold would be nice but I'm sure I can just about manage to fold them by hand Phil

Cheers for the info, looks like I should be Ok on that. I've done a test run with the internal triangular trim piece, Removal tool at top not bottom, found that out the hard way but luckly did no damage to the panel.. It looks like the door panel needs to come off, at least the top needs releasing to allow acess to a connector as I didn't see one when I removed to small trim panel so I guess it's behind the door trim (unless you know different of course !! ). I'm Ok with regard the drill bits etc, worse case I have a reamer or a titanium cone cutter (maybe the cone cutter will be a bit OTT as it is good for 1/4" plate !) Thanks again Phil

Just abit of extra info: Looks like the Full length Roof rails for the 5 door are no longer made, phoned Sim's today Fitted new JVC CD/MP3/USB (memory stick etc) player on Sunday, just dropped straight in (As suggested it would by various folks on here - Thanks) Less than 10 min to to do the swap and load the radio memories. Anyone doing the swap, don't forget you will no doubt need the antenna adapter to go in the radio so the standard L/R antenna will fit. Right just need the new O/side folding mirror and Standard length roof rails... Done around 250 miles and appears to be doing just over 30MPG, not bad, possibly get better as I get used to driving a petrol again, first one in 10 years since my V8 90.... That did 18 mpg on a good run but the sound through a stainless exhaust system was EXCELLENT. Cheers Phil

Just as a matter of interest, were there any very basic mirrors fitted to the Freelander i.e manual mirror glass positioning and no heating element ? The ones on mine are electric adjustment for mirror angle etc, heated ( I saw the connections when the back FELL OFF ! ) but not able to fold in... I just wondered how many variations there are.... All I need is electric adjustment, heated but fully foldable.. Thanks Phil