[Temp gauge, Defender petrol]

I can’t get the temperature gauge to work properly on my Land Rover. My Series IIA has the 2.5l petrol defender engine. On the block there are 3 sensor terminals:

1. On the filter casing there’s a terminal, connected to the oil pressure warning light, which works.

2. On the n/s/f of the block, at the top, just behind the thermostat housing, is a terminal in a flat topped sensor, held in by 3 bolts, which is connected to the temperature gauge. When the engine is cold the gauge shows cold, and a test light to the terminal doesn’t light. As soon as the thermostat opens the gauge goes straight to hot, and the test light lights.

3. On the o/s/f of the block, at the side, near No 1 plug, is a brass hex with a terminal, not connected to anything. Test light = nothing, engine hot or cold.

So, have I got a faulty gauge, a faulty sensor, or is something wired up wrong? Is one of these sensors for an oil pressure gauge?

I’m trying to sort out a thermostatic fan. I’ve got a rad (from the Defender I assume) with a sensor/switch just below the top hose entry, which has 3 wires, black, red & white. I assume that red should be a +ve supply, black earth, and white should switch the fan (I’ve used a relay), but I can’t get it to work, and without the temp gauge working it’s hard to know what’s going on.

Can someone help please?

[Why does my temp gauge not work?]

I can’t get the temperature gauge to work properly on my Land Rover. My Series IIA has the 2.5l petrol defender engine. On the block there are 3 sensor terminals:

1. On the filter casing there’s a terminal, connected to the oil pressure warning light, which works.

2. On the n/s/f of the block, at the top, just behind the thermostat housing, is a terminal in a flat topped sensor, held in by 3 bolts, which is connected to the temperature gauge. When the engine is cold the gauge shows cold, and a test light to the terminal doesn’t light. As soon as the thermostat opens the gauge goes straight to hot, and the test light lights.

3. On the o/s/f of the block, at the side, near No 1 plug, is a brass hex with a terminal, not connected to anything. Test light = nothing, engine hot or cold.

So, have I got a faulty gauge, a faulty sensor, or is something wired up wrong? Is one of these sensors for an oil pressure gauge?

I’m trying to sort out a thermostatic fan. I’ve got a rad (from the Defender I assume) with a sensor/switch just below the top hose entry, which has 3 wires, black, red & white. I assume that red should be a +ve supply, black earth, and white should switch the fan (I’ve used a relay), but I can’t get it to work, and without the temp gauge working it’s hard to know what’s going on.

Can someone help please?

[Steering Wheel Replacement on IIA]

I went to change the steering wheel on my 1964 Series IIA, only to find that the very tatty original chrome spoked wheel is secured on the splines by a pinch bolt, rather than a big nut on top of the column. All the aftermarket wheels (Mountney etc) I've seen are made for the usual large-nut-on-top-of-the-column set up. Can anyone suggest where I can source an alternative wheel. My existing wheel is 16". I don't want a really small one, 14" or 15" would make a difference. Many thanks. Ed Mason

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[RHD conversion of LHD 101]

I'm new to 101's so sorry if this is old hat. How easy is it to convert a LHD 101 GS to RHD, & are parts readily available?

Many thanks guys

[Newbie with first question!]

Hi all,

just bought a 2.5TD 90 as a do-er-upper, already repaired the majority of electrical gremlins and am now starting to get the mechanical bits in order.

I was wondering if anyone can help with a query I have regarding the centre diff -

I have been driving the truck on A roads and dual carraigeways for 3 weeks now and the gearbox seems fine with just first being hard to select occasionally. The only problem appears to be the fact that the diff-lock doesn't appear to work! There is a nice positive action when using the diff-lock lever in high ratio and a lighter action when selecting in low ratio however the diff-lock indicator does not come on.

I have tested the indicator wiring and that is all fine - I can't work out a way to get the switch out through the transmission tunnel yet to test it, but I can see the selector arm moving when I try to go in and out of diff-lock. I jacked up the front offside wheel this evening and with the handbrake on and 1st selected I can rotate the front wheel freely whether I select the diff-lock or not! Surely with three wheels on the ground and the diff-lock engaged this should not be possible?

Am I looking at replacing the transfer box or is there another explanation for this?

I have had a trawl through the technical archives but can't find any threads relating to this problem - any help would be gratefully received before I start a search for a new box!

p.s. - great forum, I have already learnt a huge amount from the site.

Common problem on LRs where Diff-lock has never been used. From what you describe the diff-lock isn't engaging, but before you go any further, are you engaging diff-lock whilst moving? You can select whilst stationary, but it won't actually engage (or disengage) until you are moving, & can take a second or two to do so. Second, this is a Land Rover, so if it doesn't work first time, use more force. My recently acquired Defender needed a very hefty push to get the diff lock in & out, but I imagine its never been used. Its getting easier with use. When I get time to put it on the ramp I'll smother the linkage with WD40. I tend to shift in & out of Diff-lock, & from Hi to Low box when I'm crawling in traffic & getting bored, it exercises the mechanism, and its good practice trying to get smooth changes on the move.

[Where to put the spare?]

The 235/85 Spare on my 90 is on the back door, but I'd like to move it to preserve the door itself, and to allow me to mount a mirror to see the tow hitch to help hitching up a heavy trailer. At present the spare obscures my view of the towball. I don't want the spare on the bonnet, or the roof, so I'm forced to put it inside, where it takes up a lot of space. I'm wondering if anyone has experimented with creating a well in the floor behind the bulkhead, which the spare could stand in so it takes up less room. I seem to remember some military Series vehicles had this (or was it the 109?)

[wheels and tyres]

thanks for the advise guess these wil fit on the standard wheels?

was thinking about the lift kit for the future probably gonna start getting into more serious off roading and think the raised air intake sounds like a good idea as iv had water in the footwells already

there are a thousand things i want to fit to my 90 just not sure where to start

joined to hopefully get to speak to some people with some experince to guide me in the rite direction and not waste money on stuff that imight never use

guess other than that its kinda a learing curve

Wouldn't spend a fortune at this stage. If you look on e-bay under Land Rover tyres you'll fin lots of choice of Mud Terrains already on wheels from people who are upgrading. Get a set of Mud Terrains and you'll notice the difference straight away off road. They will be noisy on tarmac, and not as grippy, but as long as you don't go for anything extreme like Simexs they are fine. Note alloy wheels use different nuts to steel wheels, so if you swap one for the other you'll need nuts as well. The very first thing on your off-roading kit list should be decent recovery points, so other people can pull you out when you get stuck. Then tyres, then diff and steering guards, and then a lift because it improves articulation on rough ground. You can go through pretty deep water without needing a snorkel, but petrol engines need the electrics waterproofing even for deep puddles. I wouldn't worry too much about rock sliders unless you are doing fairly serious stuff. They're not cheap, whereas putting a new sill on a Defender if you scrunch it isn't a big job, or expensive, or critical. Also get yourself a Hi-Lift Jack & learn how to use it safely, plus a decent tow rope (not a Halfords job), and a few shackles (Machine Mart have this stuff cheap enough). Oh and a basic CB to talk to your mates. Try 4x4 CB

[Recovery Eyes]

Sorry for the thread hijack... but what can I do here with regards recovery. I don't want to use the towbar fitted by previous owner and the guard covers the jate ring holes.

thanks.

I have same problem. I think simplest solution may be new steering guard with built in recovery points (paddocks £72 + VAT) & put the old one on e-bay. Probably get £30 for it.

Paddoc Spares

[Recovery Eyes]

If you want to add eyes above the bumper line, then D-Rings are the way to go:

I here they are attached to my IIa, but they are exactly the same for a defender:

They are best used in pairs, with a bridle between them - ie a strap or rope attached to both of the eyes, and another long rope attached to the centre of the bridle to whatever is recovering you/being recovered.

hth

Mark

Paddocks sell them, £14.50 + VAT. Simplest traditional solution if access to chassis rails underneath is obstructed. Fit with M10 High tensile bolts, & use a bridle (Machine Mart do a nice webbing one, which doubles as a tree strop)

Not sur I've done this link right, but if it doesn't work cut & paste into your browser.

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF_ROAD/R...ies_-_pair.html

[Cost of chequer plate?]

I've been offered some 2mm thick aluminium chequer plate to cover my trailer bed. How much is this stuff normally? Thanks. Ed

[Removing Hinge bolts]

They fit exactly the same way as they do on a Series so I can only assume you are talking about the bolts that fit to the door itself which are covered by the door-trim and not those which hold the hinge to the bulkhead? If you remove the trim you will see that the nuts are then as accessable as on a Series vehicle so you can get a spanner on them.

If the heads are all chewed up then drill them off, remove the hinge and fit new bolts.

Thanks. I'll take the door card off & sort the sticking locks out at the same time.

[Removing Hinge bolts]

Both my front doors have dropped because of wear on the hinge pin, so I've got new hinges. Getting the bolts out has been a pig in the past, but I put the impact driver on them, which has worked a treat except on one door bolt, which is pretty chewed up. Any thoughts on getting it out? The nuts on the back are not visible like a series. I assume there's a captive nut inside the door, so releasing it from the back doesn't look easy. I'm a bit stumped. Advice welcome.