mrtod
-
Posts
75 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by mrtod
-
-
Has anyone bought one of the plastic ones? - Are they any good?
-
Ah, that explains quite a bit Les, thanks.
It looks like the new crossmember tabs weren't welded at the factory, so I'm guessing they put them onto the body then welded them on to ensure correct alignment. So it would make sense shims weren't used.
I don't know if its possible but I might try to squeeze a bit of innertube between the body and the tabs, and make up some rubber washers for the backs too.
Cheers Les, you've helped a lot.
Ian
Hi - I used a margarine tub - http://projectd90.blogspot.com/2011/03/rear-cross-member-1001-uses-for.html - hope this helps:)
-
Build thread of mine is here
Wow - totally love it! I would love to do something like that - if only I didn't live in a terrace with no parking doh! (and had more talent
)If its not too impolite - how much did it go for?
Tod
-
Thanks for the info on the Coopers - would obviously prefer to have them with the S marking for sound as the pattern is more likely to remain in production and be replaceable like-for-like if I damage one.
-
Thanks - makes swapping to alloys all the easier:)
-
They use the standard studs (as do they all) but of course you need the correct nuts for alloy wheels.
Thanks Litch - which type of wheels require the longer studs - is it wolf rims etc?
-
Hi Guys
It's probably been covered a gazillion times before but inept searching couldn't find the answer.
I'm looking to fit a new set of rims on my 1995 300Tdi 90. Does anyone know if Zu alloys require long wheel studs or will they fit on with the standard ones?
Also (whilst I am at it) has anyone used Cooper Discoverer S/T tires and do they conform to the new S mark sound regs?
Thanks in advance
Tod
-
Those are two very tidy soft tops - are there any more pics please?
-
Hi Andrew and Welcome
can totally see your point - You'd be hard pressed to find a sports car that could better an Elise.
When I got my Defender it was either that or a sports car (hadn't decided what type)
Reckoned if I got anything fast, I would lose my licence in about a week - I live in Lancashire and it is full speed cameras.
The other advantage is my landy doesn't mind the millions of pot holes:)
Hope you enjoy it.
Tod
-
Hi, have you seen the product made by LandieBox - LandieBox
Tod
-
My 110 has a protection and performance bulkhead removal bar fitted like this;
Sadly whoever fitted it decided just roughly going around with a jigsaw was a godd enough way of removing the bulkhead. So when I've worked through the more important items on the to do list i want to do the front of the wheel box's like yalan has and neaten things up.
It does make it alot more open and can easily reach to get things out of the back.
Totally agree that Yalan's way of finishing the job is the best, but, if done well (like the P&P bulkhead in your pic) the easier way would give nearly as good a result, especially with a bit of edging trim.
Saw these on woolies-trim.co.uk
-
Just reread this - if they have been sat around since 04 I would be reluctant to buy them for any money - just my thoughts - might be totally wrong
-
They are about £115 per corner new inc VAT.
They were standard OEM fitment to new defenders (although I think that changed recently) so there are plenty around.
For £200 quid I've seen some part worn on alloys so I wouldn't part with more than about £150 either.
-
Be careful quoting parts from this diagram as I'm not sure its the right one.
Microcat shows a number of bulkhead bars - all with different part nos.
The ones sold on eBay are the ones specced for the 'Tomb Raider' defenders.....
Pics of the fitting of mine here:
Thanks for the guide. That is quality work especially the welding and riveted sections - and really useful for me see how some one else has done the job - Mine wont be so neat.
I am planning to leave flange of about 15mm with the old rivets in place.
I have been looking at Woolies trim for a suitable U shaped edging strip to cover them.
-
item 9 = ALR5540 bolt torx head M10 x 30mm Qty 10
item 10 = WA110065 washer plain M10 Qty 10
item 12 = SH110251L bolt hex head M10 x 25mm Qty 4
item 13 = WA110061L washer M10 Qty 4
item 14 = SH607091L bolt 7/16 hex head Qty 2
item 15 = WA600071L washer Qty 2
Quantity of bolts maybe per side, it won't matter if you buy more than you actually need, they probably come in packs of 5 or 10, all part numbers are genuine LR part numbers.
HTH
Thanks very much Western:)
-
LR factory genuine bulkhead removal bar. I can identify the parts if required.
Hi
Thanks for the diagram I think it will prove very useful for me, if its not too much trouble, could you please provide part numbers for 9,10,12,13,14 and 15.
I know these are only nuts and bolts, but as this is structural I would like to get the right bits.
Thanks
Tod:)
-
Your quite right this bar (genuine Land Rover) doesn't have a bit that extends to the seat belt bracket on the side support but it does have (Although it cant be seen in the picture) have a bracket to bolt through the top of the capping. I guess if its good enough for land rover then it's good enough for me.Hi - looks like you have done a good job there.
I too have just bought one of these bars, though I'm not planning on fitting it for a few weeks.
Will post some pics here and on my new blog when I do (http://projectd90.blogspot.com/).
As you said I believe this is a genuine LR product.
Cheers Tod
-
Opening the panel under the bonnet and applying grease directly to the pedal pivot also cured my 300tdi.
WD40 up into the pedal from the footwell would only ease the problem for a day or two.
-
As I said - it can be done...
Before
and after...
-
My advice is to look around for a good van or station wagon. You will find one for the cost of the conversion.
As to why....Well whilst you should recoup most of the cost of the hardtop from selling the truckcab and tailgate, there is the cost of all the little bits - hinges, special bolts, L shaped brackets, check straps, door electrics and locks etc etc. (not to mention finding the part numbers for all these bits....)
That's before you have bought a back door and had that that and your shiny new rear side panels painted (unless you've always wanted red panels on a green truck!) - even if you paint it yourself, that too costs folding stuff.
AND THEN you call the insurance company and they want a flippin engineers report on your modified vehicle.
At this point you may realise, Dear Reader, that this is my own personal tale of woe
Yes all of these things can be overcome...and if, for instance, you already have the truck or the one you are buying is the bargain of a life time then go ahead.....but generally speaking it wont be worth the effort..
-
Lol!!
I've been fighting with rusted on bolts all afternoon so I could fit mine.
Got'em on in the end though (with the aid of my trusty grinder)
Hi DD
I too have been grappling with my rusty nuts
That said I'm happy with the step now its on.
Tod
PS also many thanks to western for taking the time to check the microcat.
-
Hi everyone,
thanks for the replies.
Yes the bars pictured by Dinkydave are the ones I have - it apears they are the ones for a 110 as the 90 parts have a bend at one end only.
I have fitted the step as for the time being - it is only for bling (until I can afford that expedition trailer tent I have always wanted - and somewhere to put it).
As for
http://www.breedgroup.com/prod-automotive.htm
I will give them a look - thanks for the link.
Cheers Tod
-
Having just had a run-in with an extremely bigoted and foul mouthed runner (and I had two 13 year old lads in the car - still, they've probably heard that language before), I was thinking... - I'd pulled to a stop to let him past as it was quite muddy - and received an offensive hand signal and "f**k you" as an acknowledgement. But actually, I think his basic point might have been sound - I'd got half-way along the ol' Roman road just SW of Sheffield - and it was in a terrible state - damn near unwalkable. And it had indeed been dug up by earlier 4WD visitors, who obviously found it hard going because of the meltwater. It's a delicate environment indeed, and when it's soggy, it's hard to avoid ripping the ground apart. I drove out carefully, and decided not to revisit 'till it's a lot drier.
Now, whilst walkers have far more mileage of footpath than we do carriageway, so they can hardly be allowed to assume they own the countryside, one landrover used carelessly can do more damage than a hundred walkers. In this particular case, I wouldn't have travelled the road if I'd realised what a state it was in half-way along (which admittedly I might have been able to work out if I'd stopped to think about it some more).
Eventually, I reckon we're going to need some kind of open/closed indicator at each end of many green lanes (like swiss mountain passes) and some online system to check with before one sets off.
thoughts?
According to the Snowdonia National Park website (to take a random popular bit of the countryside)
"Millions and millions of feet walk along the paths of Snowdonia every year. Every year millions and millions of feet wear down (erode) the paths."
I suspect this damage costs milllions of pounds to fix/repair, yet walkers seem to think it is their God given right to cause this damage and have someone (I am not sure who, but possibly charities/taxpayers/europe) pay for it. Maybe if we got a little of this cash our green lanes would not be in such a terrible state.
Don't get me wrong - I am not defending any idiot who damages the environment either willfully or through ignorance but to suggest every landie driver is a menace to the countryside is wrong.
How would they like it if we suggested rambling should be banned because every walker is a firestarting, litterbug with a sheep worrying dog.
-
Hi all - I am relatively new to the forum so I hope this post goes to the right place and looks like it should etc - please forgive me if it does not
I have just got hold of a NAS style rear step (I believe the part number to be STC50301 - for a 110)
Unfortunately I should have got STC50269AA which is the equivalent 90 part. I think the two steps are identical apart from the fixing bars which run from the underneath of the step to the chassis rails.
So my question is - does anyone know the part numbers and /or where I can get the appropriate bits?
Thanks in advance
Tod
)
rear xmember to tub bolts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks very much - all feedback is much appreciated:)