Andrew Chua
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Posts posted by Andrew Chua
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Mine always sit off to the left, not Center. In the past 10yrs I've had it, it was always like that. I've a nanocom and it read between 31 on startup to 90 on a hard run. If left sitting, will read 88.2. It sits at that off center position from 76 to 90.
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You mean the back up sounder? It could be a loose cable. There's always supposed to be a 12v supply to it from the 10as. When the permanent 12v is withdrawn, the bbus thinks the main battery is disconnected and will sound.
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Cool. I'm glad you got it sorted!
Sometimes the simplest things do get us.
The joy of land rover ownership.
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When you change the batteries in the fob, you will need to resync the fob to the alarm. In the 10as unit there is a number of time an "invalid" fob signal can be received before the alarm triggers. Usually the number is 5. I have mine at 3. An invalid fob signal is known as the correct fob 4part number but the wrong rolling code.
Looks like now both the fobs are off sync. You will need to use the EKA to start the engine at least once. The open door, turn key in ignition precedure, to enter the 4 digit number. Once you have done this and then turned off the engine, you can now resync the fob by the procedures I mentioned. These are also in the owners manual, on replacing the fob battery. But you must do this before the passive immob function kicks in.
Failing which, if you have access to a nanocom, you can get the 10as to relearn the 2 fobs and it will be sorted out. Or a visit to the $tealership can sort it out.
Many people get stuck and give up trying to understand the 10as and say its carp, but it's quite a good unit once you get to understanding how it works.
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If it has always worked, then the fob battery is the first choice. Did you use the fob to unlock the doors? If you didn't is there the red light on the speedo flashing or solid on? Usually if the 10as is in passive immob, the horn will sound twice if it can't poll the fob for the rolling code alongside the 4 part key number of the fob. The engine with lightning sign will also flash on the instrument cluster.
If you didn't disarm the alarm n open the doors the alarm would have sounded even b4 you started the engine.
You can try to resync the plip to the 10as by closing the doors, pressing lock 4 times n pressing unlock 1 time.
If after you have done all that, it might be the transponder coil that has a problem. Meaning you need to manually press unlock before you start the engine.
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I had this leak when I fitted an oe pump. It seems like the o rings don't fit very tightly even though they look the same. My fuel line even fell off before. So after that incident, swapped the o rings n it never leaked. But now the pump is noisy again after 2 yrs.
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The top of the cooling tank venting and the temp gauge at the cold position suggests that you have a coolant flow issue.
The gauge at cold would mean that there's no coolant at the point of the temp sensor to measure, so it's cold.
The top of the plastic venting suggests that the pressure in the system is higher that normal. It could be the head or simply cos the coolant is not circulating.
If the coolant is not moving, that means its the water pump. You can test this by opening the resivour cap, filling it up with water and then floor the gas, it should sent coolant out of the opening, if it doesn't the water pump is faulty.
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Had some water in the t box before after wading when it happened before so it flickers
The other time I encountered this was when the switch contact was a lil wonky.
Nothing serious, it just scared me a lil driving a few hundred km with the diff lock light dimly lit and flickering,
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just a quick note, if it's a 1.410 T-box, a direct wiring to the ECU will work well, with the cruise control enabled.
If you have a 1.222 box, you need some electrical bits to trick the ecu to the number of pulses to that of the rpm.
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yes, it has to be sliding piece outside. if not wind and water gets pushed in when driving forward. unless maybe the previous owner spent more time driving in reverse. Release clips are on the top.
Done correctly, when you open the rear sliding windows and front windows on a 90, the air comes in thru the front and goes out the rear window, not ruffling your feathers.
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worn bearings and differential. i've had this on my box before and i swapped it out for a 'new' box. dismantled the old box and all the bearings were worn, the teeth were worn (as the bearings were worn and allowed too much play). so it's a box out job. depending on the state of the teeth, you might be better off with a new box.
a worn diff is pretty easy to detect, as when driving hit the brakes repeatedly in neutral, you do hear a 'clack' sound as the diff takes up the slack. if you have the ears for it, you can try rolling down a hill, in neutral and engine off, you can hear the diff clicking with the speed you are rolling down. just remember to hit the brakes really hard as you don't have the servo assist.
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if the vehicle is immob, but alarm is not armed, you would still be able to stick a nanocom to the OBD and read the EKA from it. As in passive immob.
Yes, i've done this before on mine.
If the vehicle was armed and you simple opened the door with the key and trigger the alarm, then it would not be so simple. You will need the EKA.
You can try to resync the fob by pressing lock button 4 times and then unlock button and see if it will budge.
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In the land of the most expensive defenders on planet earth, i've opted to use this http://www.blackvue.com.sg/hd-dr380.html
It's not the cheapest thing out in the market, but it provides decent recordings. It has a park mode, so it just sits there recording to RAM until the gyro encounters a trigger (impact), it then writes the previous 30sec and after 30sec to the card. that should be enough to get the guy that backed into your car. Has GPS co-ord, time stamp, speed traveled all recorded on the video. uses a 16GB microSD card.
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Just to update this post :
I've bought the CDL relay which fits in the 10AS at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170203883941?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Soldered the relay and tapped out pin 2 and 3 to the lock motors. This will now use the relay on the PCB to drive the motors.
Now i have a proper 10AS without the need for an external CDL controller box as stated above. It works like a treat. Land Rover saved $2 by not soldering this relay on the non-alarm models.
I've added the transponder coil so that it can 'sense' the plip and mobilise itself (when it passively immobilised) at a turn of the key.
I've also added the volumetric sensor on the B-post to complete the puzzle.
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Signal from the mechanical output of the t-box to the transducer to the wires to the ecu.
The ECU works bases on the pulses it receives from the transducer. so the faster the output of the t-box the more pulses this fella outputs which in turn will feed the speedo.
see the thread on speedo run up circuit.
so back to your question, the sensor sends the pulses to the ecu and when the ECU sees a certain number of pulses, it will assume the truck is running at X km/h or X mp/h. I remember that someone posted the exact number of pulses for 1km/h, in the speedo run up circuit thread. so when the ecu has the required number of pulses it takes to cut in the speed limiter, it simply will moderate the output to the engine. so even if you floor the pedal after the speed limiter has kicked in, nothing happens.
the number of pulses from the transducer needs to fall below certain number of pulses (which translates to the km/h) before the speed limiter cuts out and then everything is back to normal.
the ecu has no idea of how large a tyre you are using. so if your ecu has been set for 7.50/16 and you now have 35" tyres fitted, technically, you will be able to travel at faster speed (having the speedo read slower) and hence the speed limiter cuts in "later". that also means 'less milage being covered. so being honest folks, you should calibrate your speedo when you change the tyre size.
The speed transducer doesn't care about the engine rpm either, so much so which gear you are in. the gear box also doesn't send to the ecu the gear number you are driving, so you can be doing 100mph (based on the pulse per minute) in gear 3 (if it's even possible). doing some assumptions, the ecu can figure out based on the rpm and speed (based again on the ppm).
Hence in the case of the Td5, if you fitted a 1.222 ratio box, the cruise control will not engage if you are in gear 5 as the ppm output doesn't match the acceptable range of the engine revs.
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I fitted the bluesea fuse box in the middle of the bulk head.
I've an inverter off to the side behind the passenger seat and a power amp below it.
Why the middle, it makes life really easy to change fuses, add circuits and basically monitor stuff. like when you want to probe the connectors to check the voltage.
I made sure i got the one with the negative bar cos it's easier to run all the wiring back to a single place rather than to have to deal with an earth problem and try to find where was the thing earthed to.
Ran the wires directly from the battery to the +/- with a fuse of cos.
If you have a lil more budget go for a breaker system rather than fuse. it's easier to turn off individual circuits as well and test without blowing fuses repeatedly.
These fellas do come up on ebay quite often and you can get them for quite a steal.
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This is a generic unit installed in Argentina, a friend of mine that made Argentina - USA used it and it really did a good job. It's a shame the unit takes some space from the rear door. Nissan unit really freezes the inside of 110, I've been in level 4 armored 300 TDi with 35ºC in the outside getting really freezed...
I've got a similar unit like this with a larger evaporator unit n two blower motors. So that's 5 vents instead of 3. It's great n cool, but the windshield does get fogged up n it does take a lil bit of space above the door, like 3cm. Rear passenger gets frozen head.
Yup, it a great place to put two speakers too.
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Yup the closer coils are at the top.
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My apologies, i haven't been reading the forum lately.
I hope you have sorted out your issue.
If you do have access to a nanocom, perhaps you can read the settings once first and save the file. (most important step, as things can go seriously wrong when you get an incorrect setting and your truck is immobilized far away from home, ask me how i know)
next put the alarm into learn ECU mode. this will take about 1 minute for it to try to query the ECU and learn its codes. there are times in which the 10AS can be mobilised but the ECU stay immobilised. this will allow cranking, but not starting. no red light on the speedo either.
when you mentioned the alarm comes on, does it sound the horn or the BBUS (battery backed up sounder)?
If it sounds the BBUS, it could be an earth fault as when the 10AS is 'disconnected' so immediately the BBUS is activated as it thinks the truck has its battery disconnected and the ECU will go into immobilised, hence killing the engine immediately.
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It happens even on my Td5. so much so that i even have a small dead fly in my fuel gauge.
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do you have access to a nanocom?
a Td5 02 has a 3 way throttle. input is 5V. so one functions from 0 to 5 while the other 5 to 0 and the last one is for the 'average' of the 2 (like the checksum).
yes, if it doesn't 'sum up' it will show the MIL.
it will still start and idle properly but will not rev.
not that it helps in anyway knowing, but this is how it work though.
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temporary fix, use wire wrapping wire to shot the terminals from the battery to make the contact. so solder the battery terminal out to the pcb wire.
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not sure where the connector is on a Tdi of 1993.
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yes, you can get the 10AS to learn the fob codes.
if you do know the codes, you can manually type it in thru the nanocom as well. at the (1-1), (1-2), (1-3), (1-4). each represents 1/4 part of the fob's code.
you will need all the fob you are going to have it to 'learn' at once. each time you do a 'learn' it clears out the previous fobs' codes.
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the Td5 immobiliser is the same as a late Tdi300. it uses the 10AS unit.
The Tdi uses the Spider while the Td5 uses the MEMS/Td5 - ECU.
when you changed the battery in the fob and pressed the lock and unlock repeatedly (accidentally, you were actually 'resyncing' the fob to the 10as, as you happen to get the sequence right by chance).
The correct way to resync is, take out the battery in the fob, press both buttons a few time (drain any current left), then fit the battery. Next you press the lock button 4 times and then the unlock once, it will resync. (mind you, the car must be not armed)
in the 10AS, there's an option about 'time sync'. enabled by default, this is part of the sequence for verifing the rolling code to disarm and unlock the doors (CDL if fitted). so even if someone know the rolling code, you will still need to be 'in sync' with the 10AS before the system will disarm (and unlock).
this provides added protection for your defender (free lander 1 / disco 1 / 2).
you can set an option called plip resync either when disarm or arm. this puts the two in sync when you do either action. by default, i believe it's resync on disarm.
there's another time difference option (can't remember what it was called) but when enabled, it allows the two to be 'out of sync' up to 9 seconds on the hour. this is set enabled by default.
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so having said all that, when the fob is off sync, it doesn't allow you to do anything and if you keep pressing the fob it will detect it as a bad fob, ie correct rolling code, but still not quite right. so there's another setting in the 10AS called 'bad plip allowances', usually set to 4. so the alarm rings when it receives a 'bad fob' signal after that 4 attempts.
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now, how to avoid this situation again. if your plip battery is low, it should be indicated with 2 flashes on the red led (speedo) instead of the single flash per second. there's another option in the 10AS where you can set number of times the 10AS receives a low battery status from the fob before the above happens. this is usually set to 10.
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the EKA code allows for the vehicle to be driven but it has to be entered everytime the vehicle is to be started. you can find the procedure in the owner's manual or workshop manual. it's the open / close door / turn key sequence.
no, leaving the car unlocked (door open) only reactivates the passive immob after 5 minutes. there's another option in the 10AS to relock the doors and rearm if you pressed the unlock on the plip and didn't open the door after 1 minute. not enabled by default.
Late td5 or TDCi CSW
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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It depends. The TdCi is quieter vs the td5. Has a 6th gear and geared better on the highway. The TdCi engine bay is more tight, so working on stuff is a lil harder for some.
Td5, I'd say is a good reliable engine if treated right. I've done over 230k on my engine n it still pulls well. First clutch n flywheel too.
TdCi is more rev happy, so you need to put your foot down to get things moving. (2.2l)
Looks, some prefer the "power bulge" while other prefer it flat.
Td5, easier to remap, even on your own! Easier to decat, lesser emission control and sensors.