[Strange Dashborad]

Yes!! My pre-facelift TD5 manual S was recently valued at between £4-5000 as a private sale. 60k on the clock and no expensive electrics to go wrong etc. etc., so I guess that £8000 is a bit much for the facelift and extra spec, especially as the car is now 7.5 years old!!

I also only paid a bit more than that for mine when I bought it from a LR dealer 4 years ago!!

Hi Orange,

Thanks for the confirmation... I too think its a bit OTT - hence the question.

I think I'll opt for my second choice - clean up and refurb mine - with the options I've got Im not likely to find another like it - not for a proper price anyway.

And as most of us, I've changed so many parts that, appart form the running gear and body pannels, its almost a new car !

So... a refurb of the gbox and tbox and some engine/diff seals is an attractive option.

Cheers

Simon

[Strange Dashborad]

Ah I see what you mean - I thought you were moaning because the controls were reversed

Yes the 2003MY onwards ones (the silly four eyed headlight versions - released mid to late 2002) had some of the minor controls moved about plus the two-tone interior and different rear lights just to name a few things. Brakes are better too.

I don't think RAVE exists for these very late models - I think that was around the time that tech info moved to GTR for everything. You will have to log into www.landrovertechinfo.com and get your credit card out if you want to really fuss about whether the fuel filler release is in the right place - probably easier just to get used to it

Yes, I wasn't complaining, just curious.

Having read the DiffLock section on the Disco2 website, I checked my TrasferBox serial number....41D, so I could add the Diff Lock to mine. That'll help get me out of some sticky situations.

Maybe Im better off paying a few grand to a-guy-I-know to rebuild my trasfer-box-gear-box and re seal the diffs... everythings leaking a bit now (10 years and 250K km) and starting to go clunk clunk.

I'll clean it all off one sunny day and see where the leaks really are. Maybe even refurb the Turbo.

Thanks everyone,

Simon

[Strange Dashborad]

Hey guys,

Thats what I like about this forum... lots of friendly people !

I didn't know that the face lifts also had a few little tweaks like this.

Are there any nice places where I can find Rave-for-face-lift ?

And whilst Im at it, is £13000 OTT for a LHD 2002 facelifted TD5 Disco (new lights and fuel cap on instrument cluster) XS 5 seater with 59,000 miles on the clock...?

From what I can tell, no AirSusp or Heated Seats, and, like the Steering wheel, all cream interior.

Cheers

Simon

[Strange Dashborad]

Hi BogMonster,

I like the picture...

Here are extracts from the 01 & 02MY English EXPORT (ie LHD) car manual...

<-- See annotations in the image

Even if the manuals are not the same, they show the Filler Button in the bottom middle of the 6 fascia switches, same place as my LHD 1999 car.

So either all my Rave Manuals are wrong or there is something Im missing...

None of the manuals I have show the Fuel Cap button under the fog lights nor a RPM counter with an "ideal" RPM range (see "Reduced 85%" above).

I asked the seller to send me the VIN so I can ask better questions, but for the time being Im stumped !

Thanks

Simon

[Strange Dashborad]

State the obvious !

Yes, ok , it opens the filler cap, but why is it under the Fog lights and not in the group of 6 buttons over the ash tray as per the manual ?

Could it be to open the filler cap flap?

[Strange Dashborad]

Hi folks,

Looking at maybe changing my disco for a more recent model but Im a bit curious about the dash board...

Anyone any ideas ?

Whats the Fuel Filler button doing on the left below the Fog switches ?

Cheers

Simon

[Is there a fuel cut off on a TD5??]

If you want to check the fuel pump, turn the car on then unscrew the fuel filter.

If fuel spurts out all over the place under preasure then the pump is ok. If you just get a mild trickle then the fuel pump is dead.

Been there, been stranded 160miles from "home". Luckily I wasnt in a rush to go anywhere and I was in the UK.

Advice to anyone with a 200,000km or more car, change it before it dies !!!

Its a 30 min job to change it, once you empty the boot!

Cheers

Simon

PS : Oh, and for what its worth, on my LHD TD5 , the inertia switch is just behind the injector-meets-engine area, bolted to the bulk head.

There's an inertia switch on a TD5. Not sure about the DII, but in Defenders it's located under the hoog, in the middle against the bulkhead.

I don't think it's the immobiliser, that would prevent the engine from turning over all together. And as for the fuel pump, my TD5 will happily start, run and drive without a working fuel pump, be it with only 30hp or so...

[DiscoII ABS Electrical Earth Diagnosis document]

That was indeed quite en-light-ening , but you forgot the where-abouts....

So here are some round-abouts... not quite what Im looking for either

From Rave, I've cleaned C0018 but cant find C0562, the place under the bonnet somewhere where the Shuttle Value is earthed.

Can anyone tell me where this earth-point actually is ?

The Magic Round-about in Swindon, UK

[DiscoII ABS Electrical Earth Diagnosis document]

Hi everyone....

I remember reading about an offical document by LR on how to diagnose and repair the Earth Path of the ABS system.

Something about checking the earth points in various locations (like by the air filter box).

Now that I've the car in pieces for a bit of maintenance, I'd like to check what was in the list of things to check.

Can anyone enlighten me as to its whereabouts... ?

Thanks

Simon

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

1999 TD5 - 250,000Km, still looking new, still pulling like new...

[ABS Light]

Was just having a poke about underneath, someone has gone mental with underseal, everythings covered in it, including the connectors for the sensors! May nip it to our local landrover specialist garage tomorrow and see if he'll stick it on his diagnostic machine to work out which ones playing up.

Los Tres Amigos... typical problem. I drove for 14 months with mine.

A trip to a local (and VERY EXPENSIVE) garage in Paris fixed the issue. I think they put my ABS module into TEST mode. I didn't have a Nano at the time.

Every now and then the Tres Amigos come back, but a full ignition OFF --- ON cycle clears the fault. Never had a real problem since.

Nano com says I have a faulty pump - same fault lots of other people mention. Nano people tell me its a faulty earth to the ABS box - sounds about it to me.

What you may want to do is clean the Earth return path on all connectors - hell of a job to do. Unplug / plug / unplug / plug each connector, wabbling it a bit and, like Monster said, WD40 them too. That'll clean the contacts (a bit at least). Then get the system reset - this 3-light ABS fault is a "major" fault that is kept in memory and not cleared automatically; unless your ABS is in "test" mode or whatever mine is : Im not 100% sure what the garage did, but as mine re-sets itself, Im not going to change it.

I did change a rear hub (that includes the ABS sensor) before I went to the Parisian Garage but they said that the fault was on a front wheel - Im more inclined to believe that it was an earth problem - I did WD40 all connectors and checked all relays (unplug - sand/clean contacts - replace).

Good luck ...

Simon

[Query about the Discovery 2 traction control]

I've also found more often than not that I'll here the TC for a split second but the light doesn't come on.

My TC light comes on every time I pull away on a bend with gravel.

The ABS pump does-its-thing when I park on a bend (in gravel) too.

TD5, so no V8 gut, but clearly enough umph' to trick the Traction control.

My 0.5€ worth is that when there is a speed difference between left and right on the same axel, TC comes into play.

No big deal... with 140,000km on my BFG AT KO's Im about to get a new set.

Simon

[Tyres to avoid on a Discovery - DANGER DANGER]

AT2's are a good choice, I'm very impressed with mine...

Me too... I got mine 2 months after I got the car to replace the bald Michelin city tyres.

That was three years ago. 120.000 Km later and I may replace them next year, before winter 2009.

I agree that they spin every now and then when my TD5 breathes a bit too much, but on the whole, ad Tony would say, they're Gr-r-reat!

If Nick90 swears by cleaning out his pipes when "flooin' it" I just let the Traction Control do its bit and smile.

At a recent "field in mud" where many eastern 4x4's were being pulled out by the local tractor (mainly due to driver problems), my Disco simply kept going.

Some "normal" card with winter tyres also managed on their own, but at one point there was only me and the tractor moving.

I'll certainly be putting At2's on again.

Merry Christmas,

Simon

PS Where in France are you?

[Merry Xmas]

Hiya Guys (and Ladies if there are any lurking in the background)...

Just a small note to say Merry Xmass to those of you that have helped me over the past year or so...

...and to all those who read the forum!

I recently had my Td5 Fuel Pump fail on me...but having read many posts here, I knew what was wrong.

I was 100miles from "UK home" and had just taken possesion of a Horse Van, but at least I was in UK !

Very nice people (www.barlowtrailers.co.uk) took the Van back to their yard and came back with a trailer for me and took me home.

The local non LR garge had a pump in stock, so 30 mins later on a saturday morning, the Td5 was alive again !

So many thanks to all of you who regularly reply to everyones posts... I think Bog Monster is a must "thanks" but also all the rest...

Im sure you know who you are and are too many to mention...

M e r r y X m a s s !

Simon

PS : Currently in Glossop!

[TD5 Waste Gate solenoid]

Hi Simon

I'm no expert, but could it be anything to do with the length of the wastergate rod? I have played around with my rod and found that shortening the length of the rod by 1 turn or so on the adjuster made a big difference to the amount of boost I was getting. From memory, I think shortening the rod inresases boost but I could have got that the wrong way round.

Cheers

Andy

Andy,

I dont know whether to love you or hate you...

I gave it just one turn... AND WOW... !!!!!!

Even when there is no need for power, its there...its sudden, its raw...

... its frightening ...

Yes... I'm going to have to learn to drive again now and remember where the road cameras are (hence the "hate you" bit).

So big a difference it made that I plugged in NanoComm on "Read Fueling" mode to monitor what the WasteGate ratio is... runs off load at zero % (expected) and shows between 25 and 40% activity when my foot is hard down going up hill (and accelerating all the way).

Max boost is now 1.1 bar constant (I see more when I put my foot down hard, 1.14Bar tops, then it drops to 1.1).

As I was seeing 1.18 max (1.2 peak) before, I guess I can add another turn. But I'll wait till I get used to the current setting.

I'll be pulling a tonne or two tomorrow and be back in a week or so.

Thanks for the tip...

Cheers

Simon

[TD5 Waste Gate solenoid]

Hi guys,

My Waste Gate solenoid died on me a while back so I applied the Defender Fix whist waiting for a new one to arrive in the post (ie MAP sensor side of turbo directly into the WG Actuator). Nanocom showed me driving perfectly, be it only up to 1 bar of Turbo pressure.

{Symptoms : Permanent over boost and ECU going into slug mode : Nanocom showed boost at over 1.4 bar before the ECU shut down the fuleing or whatever it does in these cases}

After a hard search, Bearmach, Swansea sent me one over that doesn't look like the original. Well, not completely.

The problem is... I threw the old one away. Gone. Woosh... oops.

The new one has been in place for quite a while - but... I used to get about 1.2 bar of boost when pulling 2 tonnes up a hill... now I'm lucky to get 1.05.

Its as if the solenoid is passing the trubo side directly to the WG Actuator all the time.

Can some one tell me the normal set up of these things...? (just to check I my tubes are right! )

Are there various models that are tubed up differently ?

The WG Solenoid I have is tranparent plastic (other was solid) and has three pipes I expected; top left (verical ) top right (horizontal) and bottom (vertical) - all when looking at it from the side of the car. These are connected, in same order, to the inlet manifold (ie between the AirFlow Meter and the turbo) , the WG Actuator, and the Turbo outlet.

I remember that my dead one had a free flow of air between the Inlet Man. and the Actuator, hence the Turbo pressure not causing the WG to open and reduce boost. The current one has free air flow (when no power applied) between the Turbo outlet and the WG pipe (hence it seeming to be in Defender mode).

Any help greatley appreciated because Im being overtaken by Lada's and Kias at the moment - very embarassing

Cheers

Simon

[Fitting cruise control]

My 98 300 manual V8 has factory fitted Cruise, the fact it doesn't seem to work properly is a whole different ball game, really should try and fix that sometime soon.

Hi,

I too installed Cruise Control on my 1999 Disoc II in about 30 mins. Hardest thing is getting the courage up to take the steering wheel cover off and those explosive Airbag wires.

Then just plug in the switch (and cut a hole in the plastic) and put it all back together again.

Finally plug in the master switch. Thats it.

I bought my parts from RimmerBros, £50 in vat I think.

Full instructions here : http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=5534

They were on the Disco2.com web site.

Happy cruising,

Simon

PS Sorry TDi owners... I've no experience there.

[The 3 Amigoes T/C, HDC & ABS]

That's normal, you have to have the ignition on to diagnose most systems otherwise if they were on all the time you'd spend a lot of time with a battery charger

Hiya BigMonster,

I agree, but I would have liked to be able to access the SLABS ecu with the engine ON !

Now that I have the earth points, I'll clean them all and hopefully the problem will be fixed.

Cheers

Simon

[The 3 Amigoes T/C, HDC & ABS]

Hi Guys,

I have recently had some abs warnings and on connecting my NanoCom I see..

27-05 Shuttle valve switch electrical failure intermittent 254

31-04 Compressor relay power amplifier open circuit intermittent 2

Having read this post, I too would be interested in the test procedures.

Earth problem... yes could be. I have to have the ignition on but not engine running to get to the SLABS module.

Otherwise NanoCom tells me there is a communication failure. Mattia (NanoCom) gave me the hint.

I have cleared the faults so will be able to see if they come back. I did remove the ABS relays when looking to solve another issue - could this cause fault 31-04 ?

Can someone please supply photos/description of which EarthPoints I need to check/clean ? (Bothe for the SLABS ecu and the Shuttle Value Switch.

thanks,

Simon

1999 DISCO II SLS, ACE, old wires etc

[Nanocom]

Having pumped air into the Wastegate actuator, I know it "moves"... so I bypassed it - I believe this is known as the Defender Tweak.

Now no "Overboost" and only 1 bar of preasure but at least I can put my foot down and not have the car hic-up on me.

The Wastegate solenoid appears thus to be dead... I applied 12v to its 32ohm coil and nothing happens.. no click..no humming... no-air passage from bottom to middle.

Time to go shopping...

[Nanocom]

Hi,

My Nano recent tells me that...

Turbocharger is overboosting

Noisy Crank case signal

Both logged. I Cleared these codes but current is...

Turbo overboosting.

Any ideas whats up...?

Can I check the wastegate solenoid is working?

It now only "boosts" up to 1Bar (previously it boosted to 1.2bars) and barely gets up to 3000 rpm in fourth... :-(

Cheers

Simon

Disco II 1999 220,000km

[Heater Matrix change]

It's a 300 - used to be a Rover V8 manual but is now a GM 6.2 V8 with GM auto box. I don't think the engine will make any difference.

Hi,

I changed the matrix on a friends 300 a few weeks ago.

Its a long job, but not complicated.

Park the car on a steep downhill nose first, from inside the engine bay, loosen the hoses between the engine and the bulk head and take them off ... put a connector in so you can still run the car if you need to. This avoids draining all the system.

All the Dash, central column, steering wheel controls instrument cluster need taking off, then the fan cluster in/behind the glove box.

Then take the heater unit out. The matrix is held in place with one or two little screws.

I bunged up the "hole" behind the heater and put the steering wheel / controls back so the guy could drive his car.

Get a new matrix and fit the pipes to it from the old matrix. I then pressurised the whole thing to make sure there were no leaks.

As haynes manuals like to say, refit in reverse order. You may wish to refit the heater hoses to the Matrix BEFORE fitting all the dash. Then drive around for a while (hence making it drivable in the first place without the dash) to make sure there are no leaks.

Good luck,

Simon

[Remove the EGR valve]

Today the EGR Blanking kit I ordered off Ebay arrived so I went about fitting it, all in all it took me about 20mins to fit. I thought that someone might be thinking of doing this little mod, so I have written a short Howto.

My Nanocom unit tells me that my EGR value is stuck closed...

... saves me buying a Blanking kit

...but... I still have the valve in the middle (will this seriously affect the air intake) and what will this do to emissions controls...?

I would have thought that an intercooler upgrade was more interesting...

Cheers

Simon

PS Your book mentions 2 pipes... Rave tells us that there are two systems in use to meet two different emissions levels...

"There are two types of exhaust gas recirculation system used with the Td5 engine dependent on legislation and

market requirements, these are type 1 and type 2.

Type 1 EGR system is fitted to all Td5's built up to the introduction of 2002 MY, except for Japanese specification

vehicles.

Type 2 EGR system is fitted to all Japanese specification vehicles and was introduced into European markets for 2002

MY to meet EU3 emission requirements. An additional feature introduced at 2002 MY is the EGR cooler, which is

bolted to the front of the cylinder head."

[TD5 Airflow Sensor]

The advantage of the Nanocom is that it DOES have the little LCD screen --> RPM (same as the disco's), Turbo Pressure (Can I overtake...?) Real Coolant temp (ie not the stuck-to-the-glass LR Neadle) and battery volts (Aircon fans will make it drop off).

As many people have already said invarious threads... it gets booring after a while, but its nice to be able to see all this.

My Disco was coughing and spluttering ... 400€ trip to a nonLR stealer didn't fix the problem. So I ordered a Nano from Bearamarch and it arrived the next day. Short circuit. The wires passed over the tmp guage sensor and the MAF and Wastegate supply lines had fused to the exhaust EGR pipe.

Some tape, patience and a re-routed wireloom and Im back to normal.

So I wouldn't bother putting a perm view of the car's sensors from a drivers perspective ... your driving !!

Simon

PS : and just for the record, the Nanocom also plugs into a PC (USB) and shows all vital signs real time.

PPS : It would be interesting to see Ian's [Porny] solution... then we can all compare the systems and make a better reccomendation for newbies like me.

[TD5 Engine temperature]

Mine shows egr valve short circuit or stuck closed depending on which day it is! and its not even there

Lynall

Yeah... I guess its not worth bothering about. Its a nice way to be sure the Nanocom is reading the CPU... there's at least one value to see :-)

I've got to thinking that the Nanocom will only be in the car when towing... Then I can keep an eye on the thermal meltdown theory.

Yesterday I drove for the first time without a load...and the temp never made it past 90...

Maybe I should open another thread, but whats the Max Turbo boost you get Lynall ? Mine was 1.19 when towing (uphill) yet barely 1 point anything without the load and at 2500 up a steapish hill...

Cheers

Simon

[TD5 Engine temperature]

The thermostat is used to maintain the coolant at the optimum temperature for efficient combustion and to aid engine

warm-up. The thermostat is closed at temperatures below approximately 82°C (179°F). When the coolant

temperature reaches approximately 82°C the thermostat starts to open and is fully open at approximately 96°C

(204°F). In this condition the full flow of coolant is directed through the radiator.

The thermostat is exposed to 90% hot coolant from the engine on one side and 10% cold coolant returning from the

radiator bottom hose on the other side.

Hot coolant from the engine passes from the by-pass pipe through four sensing holes in the flow valve into a tube

surrounding 90% of the thermostat sensitive area. Cold coolant returning from the radiator, cooled by the ambient air,

conducts through 10% of the thermostat sensitive area.

In cold ambient temperatures, the engine temperature is raised approximately 10°C (50°F) to compensate for the heat

loss of 10% exposure to the cold coolant returning from the radiator bottom hose.

By-pass flow valve

Simple eh

Lynall

Erm yeah... two for me please and one for my friend.

I had read this, but didn't want to believe it. Hence the question.

I guess that with my engine not going above 100degC was quite good then, even on the up hill bits... it was 29degC outside.

Next test will come when I put 600Kg of meat in the van... and then try going up a hill at 100Km/h.

The ECU has an AutoLogic remap, so it should cope. Should. I hope. Please...?

Thanks for the reply,

Simon

PS The EGR valve is reportedly stuck closed...reading the number of Blanking kits available, I guess this is a good thing. Its the only error showing now that I fixed the rest (TD5 Misfires - shorted cables.)