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Mark

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Posts posted by Mark

  1. OK,

    I have a Series 1 Disco, and most of the floor matting is pretty wet. I know the rear floor has rotted out in several places, and I know there are one or two (!) rusty bits on the floor areas. These are going to get fixed, but if I don't want them to happen again, how do I minimise* the water entry into the vehicle?

    There must be some common areas that always leak, can anyone point me in their direction, and the best way to cure the leaks?

    Thanks

    Mark

    *Minimise - It's a Land Rover, it's going to leak!

  2. Ha Ha Ha! Tony you must be a mind reader! The rear floor is almost non-existant, so as well as replacing the sills, I will be replacing most of the floor too!

    I might well make a separate post about it, but I think my plan is to strip out all the carpets and matting and do the whole lot - sills, rear floor, rear wheelarch panels (either side of the floor).

    I am not entirely sure what I have taken on :o

    These coilers do seem to rust a lot, didn't have any of these problems with my leafers!! ;):unsure::unsure:;):huh:

    later

    Mark

  3. Just to add a slightly differnet spin on this, I bought a cheap chinese helmet from eBay for £30. I do not weld every day, or in fact every weekend, so I don't feel I can justify the £120 for a decent helmet. The eBay one works very well, and for the amount I use it was well worth the cash. If you ar gooing to be using it all day everyday, then there is no contest, However, if it is just occasional use the chinese solar ones are very good value.

    Incidentally I got mine about a year ago, from an american seller. took a few weeks to get hee, but was about 2/3 the price of the same helmet from a UK seller.

    </2p>

    Mark

  4. wot size wheel nuts do u have?

    if 23mm then def rims wont fit

    if 27mm then they will

    old stuff is 9/16 stud, modern stuff is 16mm stud

    New Rims should fit on older studs shouldn't they? I have 2 SIII rims on my IIa, and I thought the 90/110 rims were the same as SIII?

    Given that the wheels are hubcentric they should be ok???

    Mark

  5. I thought of welding two bolts on to the bench side of the bender

    and instead of using a flat metal strap use angle iron and nuts to tighten the two pieces together

    As I think has already been said, you want the bolts as close to the end of the workpiece as possible, ie if you are bending a 6" bit then the bolts only need to be 6" apart, and if you are bedning a 18" bit, then 18" apart, etc.

    nicked the picture from the website:

    sheetMetalBender.jpg

    As per siggy's diagram though, I would think that using angle rather than strip for the non-bench half would be better, as less likley to bend as you make the bend...

    a thread for simply made fabrication tools in the tech archive would be a great idea! :)

    Cheers

    Mark

  6. :D

    'fraid progress has slowed a little, cos of other commimtments, but rest assured, I will update when some progress is made...

    Thanks for the comments around ply vs mdf. I have fitted the aluminium ones for the moment, but he wood option is till open!

    Hydraulic on the toylander??? :o:huh::blink: Got any advice on pedal powered pumps nige??

    laters

    Mark

  7. I saw an ad, by nick for a damaged Disco. I am not sure if it is this one, or a previous one. However, Nick has been around 'here' for at least as long as I have (getting on for 6 years now in various incarnations) and I always look at his ads as he usually has something interesting for sale, and usually at good or at least realistic prices.

    When I saw that his ad had been deleted, I thought it was a shame, cos someone here could have benefitted from what he was selling. I don't really care if he is profitting, or if has cold be seen as a trader, or if he has contributed to the discussions recently. In my mind what he was offeriing could have been a good deal for someone (as yet I have not been in a position to take him up on anything).

    I was also kinda dismayed to see it had just been deleted, no discussion (at least not publicly). I am not entirely comfortable with that level of censorship. We are not talking offensive postings, so it at least could have been left open for discussion.

    In a vote, I would say let him post it. No one actually loses from it after all.

    </2p>

    Mark

  8. My personal opinion is go with a good quality second hand machine. I use a Myford ML7 (which to be fair isn't really big enough for some of the things I want to do, but it fits in the workshop!). The chinese machines are getting pretty good now, but I like the old style quality...

    Keep an eye out here cos there are always lathes for sale, and they are often less than the eBay prices.

    There are however, plenty of people on here with lathes and opinions on them, and more importantly far more experience than me....

    Cheers

    Mark

  9. I have indeed thought about the strips idea, and to be honest, have not discounted it! The idea of using the MDF rather than the Aluminium was to maintain the same surface finish. MDF has a really nice sealed surface which takes paint very nicely. Sanding tends to remove the nice sealed finish, so the paint is absorbed more.

    I have to admit that I don't much rate ikea furniture, and have been known to refinish items form them or say 'sod it' and make it myself... :rolleyes::unsure:

    I will continue experimenting! :huh: Thanks to everyone for the input. B)

    Mark

  10. Mark, Sorry to be so long to get back to you, I asked our technical manager at work if he thought 3mm MDF should do the job. The answer was that according to our specs the minimum radius they would guarantee was about 100 mm but it will normally do a lot better than that. It would seem that your radius might well be too tight, to be honest, I had in mind the curve of a full size LR wing, & the pics of the Toylander made it look bigger than your measurements, I've obvoiusly underestimated that, not really thinking that your Toylander is about 1/4(?) scale & thus tighter still, so sorry if I've given your a bum steer. Even the 2.5mm we make might struggle at your figures & I guess every manufacturers product will have slightly different properties. As others have pointed out, wetting it will destroy its properties totally Wish I could suggest something to help,scoring & bending is probably going to leave a series of flats around the curve. One thing that may work to make it more flexible is to heat it a bit, the tech manger said that what you needed was some board straight out of the press. ( We run continuous presses that make 3mm at over 40metre/minute) It might be worth trying to heat it to about 100 C in the oven & see if that works, but the board moisture might drop too low & make it brittle still. Take care not to set it on fire ( it burns well & stinks like hell when it does :D ) Other than that I'm embarrassed to say you're on your own, such a lot of work in the beautifully crafted jig too. My rough sketch did not deserve such fine craftsmanship. :(

    Cheers, Steve.

    Steve,

    No apologies needed! I'm really just trying stuff out! I might well have a go with some thinner material - they seemed to have thinner at the wood shop, so I will see what happens. I may also give it a go with ply on the inside, but as I said, I will go with the aluminium caps if the wood method dosn't work!

    Thanks for the help!

    Cheers

    Mark

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