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Mark

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Posts posted by Mark

  1. I did mine this weekend just gone...

    Towbar and fuel tank will need to come out.

    I left the rear floor in - if you cut at the bottom of the dip, there is enough room to get all the way round with the welder.

    I also left the wiring loom intact - I cut a new hole for it to come through the side of the chassis, cut a slot and moved it up the chassis. it now runs just under the load bed bed rather than through the chassis - it saves cutting and rejoining, and since you are welding it up anyway...

    The exhaust I left in place - just dropped it off 2 of the hangers...

    there's some pictures here: Rear crossmember

    hth

    Mark

  2. Some time ago, I asked about rear crossmember replacement options for my td5 110, and other than the usual suspects the name that seemed to come up was MIB components.

    So, not being one to rush into things, I had a chat with them at the July version of the Newbury sortout this year, and had a good look at their replacement crossmembers, and was pretty impressed with the quality of what they were producing, and what they were trying to achieve.

    Again, leaving some time to think, I spoke to them again on the phone a couple of weeks before the september Newbury sourtout, as I wanted to check they would be bringing what I was after with them - they weren't, but could make one for me, and bring it.

    I ordered thier heavy duty replacement crossmember, which means the main box is made of 3mm rather than 2mm steel. Other than that it would be completely standard. However, since they were making it up for me, I also asked if they could add some recovery eyes into the cross member, tied into the main chassis rail sections - something I had intended to do were I to make up a crossmember myself.

    They were more than happy to include these modifications, and charged a very reasonable amount to do so.

    So, at Newbury, I took delivery of my new replacement crossmember :-) - I had left it on thier stand most of the day, and they also mentioned they had had several other enquiries for crossmembers with recovery eyes built in, so this may now become a standard product offered.

    Got it home, and looked at it next to my truck, at which point I noticed a slight issue - which obviously was to do with the modifications I had asked for - essentially they had used the 2 sets of holes for the tailgate hinges to open up and pass the loop through for my recovery eyes. My 110 is a doublecab, and I rather like my tailgate, so I gave them a call....

    MIB were very apologetic, and organised a courier to pick the wrong one up, made a new one, with the recovery eyes where they wouldn't interfere with the tailgate, and sent it back to me.

    So, having spent the weekend taking my old, very rusty crossmember off, and fitting my shiney new MIB one, I am very pleased - no alignment issues, really strong quality part, and with my extra mods.

    So, well done to MIB - firstly for a top quality product, and secondly for a good attitude and customer service.

    Cheers.

    Ps. Here's some pictures ;-)

    post-92-0-72917100-1322437666_thumb.jpg

    post-92-0-61340300-1322437683_thumb.jpg

    post-92-0-74419500-1322437699_thumb.jpg

    post-92-0-94068200-1322437718_thumb.jpg

    post-92-0-75804400-1322437737_thumb.jpg

    post-92-0-70226200-1322437754_thumb.jpg

  3. As has been said - when using Jate rings, (or similar between those point on the chassis) using two rings and a bridle between them is preferable.

    With regards 8.8 vs 10.9 vs 12.9 rated bolts, remember that the first part is the breaking strain and the second half is the percentage of the breaking strain at which deformation occurs.

    ie, an 8.8 bolt will break at 800 N/mm^2 but be permanently deformed at 80% of that breaking strain (640 N/mm^2)

    the 10.9 bolt will have a much higher breaking strain (1000 N/mm^2), and will also deform at a higher strain (90% = 900N/mm^2), but will give less warning that it is going to break.

    It is however, still intrinsically stronger as the 8,8 bolt will have broken long before the 10.9 bolt will have started to deform!

    hth

    Mark

  4. Current is drawn rather than supplied.

    That is, something that can supply 6.5A will happily power something only drawing 3.5A.

    provided the plugs fit, it sounds like it should be ok.

    The lind supplies are good quality bits of kit.

    Cheers

    Mark

  5. It might also be worth saying that there are a number of electronic ground plane products available, for plastic, canvas, or possibly aluminium roofed vehicles. never tried one, and would probably take some advice, but since no-one has mentioned them yet I thought I would...

  6. I have a small kenwood unit which is basically an 8" driver in a sealed box integrated with the amp etc. that we use in the Fabia which far outperforms it's size - However, it is not as compact as the Blaupunkt above. I had been considering resurrecting some bits of sub I had kicking about, but that is a far neater solution. cheers.

  7. Thanks for the constructive responses chaps...

    I am really not after spending big money - I have a tweak on the ECU and a big intercooler, and frankly that's plenty powerful on an engine thats fairly long in the tooth. The VNT idea sounds great but I suspect is too much money...

    Is the Garret unit an upgrade, or a direct replacement?

    Cheers

    Mark

  8. I noticed on our recent jaunt to Wales that my turbo is really very noisy on my 156k mile old TD5....

    This leads me to believe that it is not very happy, and I would rather have thought about, and possibly acted upon this before it becomes an immediate issue.

    So, having never replaced a turbo I wondered what options were out there...

    Replace with new or recon unit?

    replace with secondhand unit?

    uprate turbo with something a bit more fun - maybe something with a variable geometry?

    Anyone have any direct experience?

    Are Disco TD5 turbos the same as defender ones?

    Cheers

    Mark

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