Dibnah

Hi All Hex head fixing bolts for front caliper, does this make it an imperial caliper? Possibly not as it came out of the factory,

Adding this for info: it would appear that the fluid pressure in the pipes to the cooler is approx 30psi, from here http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/194502-Range-Rover-Auto-Gearbox-Replacement!-EEEEK!! One jubilee clip is OK with 40psi in my experience, but on a slightly flared pipe. The pipes are each in 2 sections, 4 parts in total. I can get 3 parts but not NRC 9868. Parts are: NRC 9868 NRC 9869 NRC 9870 NRC 9871 I might use flexible over the whole length, with manufactured fittings at each end,

Hi all Looking at various options with the brakes, RR has been resting for a couple of years in a damp place, brakes are not the best so I might replace all the calipers. Seems to be a variety available, I think that the fronts (vented discs) are RTC6776 from Paddocks (other suppliers etc) and the rears are STC1264 from Paddocks Front: Rear: Confirmation or correction would be appreciated! Edit: Paddock front http://www.paddockspares.com/rtc6776-front-brake-caliper-new-rh-vented-discs.html Paddock rear http://www.paddockspares.com/stc1264-rear-caliper-new-rh.html

Thanks, I'll have a look at their website

Looks like inner and outer sills on both sides need replacing, also headlamp boxes. Suggestions for best sources please! Paddocks Rimmers Anyone else?

Slight change of plan, ended up cutting both bits of existing flexible pipe and fitting a bit of solid pipe using 2 jubilee clips at each end, Radiator is now bypassed (for the autofluid), Have seen complete replacement pipes/hoses (feed and return) on that internet for £60ish for Disco with autobox, they look similar to what I need.. Doesn't leak with the engine at fast idle in neutral (so pressure low, although it was spraying out previously with the fractured pipe at idle in neutral). Need to get the RR onto a vehicle lift for good access.

Thanks for the quick replies. I need to move the RR about 30 yards onto a vehicle lift. If I've understood the gearbox correctly, it will only generate maximum pressure when it has locked into 4th gear, which won't happen in the 30 yards. I'll try the jubilee clips!

Well I found out where the auto fluid had gone, solid pipe corroded through just before the entry into the radiator. I think I can remove the existing flexible hose and replace with a longer section of flexible hose, however I'll be securing it with two jubilee clips at each end. Flexible pipe should be OK, but possible that jubilee clips might not hold flexible pipe onto existing solid pipe. Has anyone been successful with something like this before?

Thanks Bowie

Need to top up the autobox (no fluid showing on stick, measured with cold engine idling), is Dexron 111 correct?

It runs! Just to close this off, non-running was due to a combination of poor electrical connections to various multi-plugs in the EFi system (car had been resting outside for a couple of years), connections at fuel pump relay, LT connections at ignition coil, sticking idle air control valve and old plugs (although they looked OK). I don't think the resistor is anything to do with the fuel pump. When I've fixed the other problems I'll take a look and see what it does.

Still working on this! Probably need to take a day to deal with it logically instead of an hour here and an hour there. Car has aftermarket immobiliser and aftermarket alarm. Resistor is approx 1.2ohms, have replaced with similar. I'll disconnect it and see if the fuel pump stops (I can hear fuel pump working if I move AFM flap). Still not starting although occasional firing. Problems with poor LT connections to coil and green gunge around HT connections, now a torrent of sparks from the king lead to a flying earth lead, so possible poor earth to engine. And then it got dark.

My post above did not end up as I intended! Tried to multi-quote but failed miserably. Thanks for all the replies anyway.

Engine started, which was a bit of a surprise after its lengthy rest. Erratic idle, cut out and then non-starter. Probably old fuel in system, which won't help. Broken wire to unknown resistor on engine bulkhead (driver's side), also visibly corroded earths adjacent to unknown relays in same location. I've worked with flapper before, but all the EFi relays were in the car (kitcar). Any suggestions as to identity of resistor and relays would be much appreciated!

Thanks for the Thanks, engine is free, so that's good news. (Line workers don't have to pay for engine rebuilds out of their own pockets!)