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Question: About Brake Bleeding


Colibri Brown

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Hello all I am new to this forum. I own a 1989 Range Rover Classic, EFI 3.5 Non ABS

Last week I had to change the brake master cylinder as it had started having a very bad leak from the back inlet port seal.

I am using the Gunson's Eezi Bleed system. Am I right in thinking that to do the front right I need to open simultaneously the primary and secondary bleed nipples on the in board side, then the secondary nipple on the other side.

Or is there a better way?

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First of all if your master cylinder has the brake fail warning switch fitted half way down the side of the MS then this must first be disconnected and unscrewed 4 full turns.

Bleed sequence.

NSR

OSR

NSF Bleed both screws, on the same side of the calliper, simultaneously. Then the screw on the other side of the calliper.

OSF Repeat the above.

Ezee bleed is a good bit of kit but make sure you only run about 15psi or less. If you run more pressure you make the bubbles in the fluid smaller and more difficult to get out.

Steve

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First of all if your master cylinder has the brake fail warning switch fitted half way down the side of the MS then this must first be disconnected and unscrewed 4 full turns.

Bleed sequence.

NSR

OSR

NSF Bleed both screws, on the same side of the calliper, simultaneously. Then the screw on the other side of the calliper.

OSF Repeat the above.

Ezee bleed is a good bit of kit but make sure you only run about 15psi or less. If you run more pressure you make the bubbles in the fluid smaller and more difficult to get out.

Steve

Thanks steve, that is how I was going to do it. The Ezee bleed is now in the bin, because the top started leaking air then I sealed that with PTFE tape, then the connector to the tyre the hose flew off cabe tie that back on. and last thing was the top poped off and sparyed brake fluid over the engine. I was using 16 PSI from a old Mini tyre.

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