DaveJ Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Hello all, just got hold of a 200tdi and am gradually working through all its aliments. Anyway the steering on this thing is absolutely terrible, very hard then very easy - like rolling a large 50p would be. Previous owner recons he had a new PS pump fitted to try and cure problem but it didn't. I have so far only got round to dropping the drag link off the drop arm to try it when it is not pulling anything and same thing happens. I am therefore thinking possibly air in system (should have checked this already really but haven't), drop arm bearings US or steering box US. Mind that said I am not ruling out PS pump being US either - at full lock you can hear the hydraulics whirring though. Next thing - perhaps should be another thread..... I used to have a bobtailed rangie (beautifully tiger stripped by hand - took ages!) anyway, when making said bobtail I decided to completely out the A frame ball joint and just took the old 9" grinder to it - I noticed not a jot of difference in car handling etc.. but a huge difference in how far rear axle could travel. I am assuming that I can do the same thing to the pesky A frame on the disco too can't I? - incidentally that is bobtailed too! Will leave the heatrer blower to another thread once some knuckle blood is spilt! All advice gratefully received. DaveJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnut Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Check the small universal joints on the steering column to steering box - if these are starting to sieze they can make the steering feel very notchy. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Check the small universal joints on the steering column to steering box - if these are starting to sieze they can make the steering feel very notchy.Peter. Thanks Peter will try that as the shafts do look a little ..... well used! DaveJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Next thing - perhaps should be another thread..... I used to have a bobtailed rangie (beautifully tiger stripped by hand - took ages!) anyway, when making said bobtail I decided to completely out the A frame ball joint and just took the old 9" grinder to it - I noticed not a jot of difference in car handling etc.. but a huge difference in how far rear axle could travel. I am assuming that I can do the same thing to the pesky A frame on the disco too can't I? - incidentally that is bobtailed too! Dave, I'm a little concerned here about you removing the A-frame ball joint!!!! - The A-frame locates the rear axle and stops it from rotating fore and aft - without it, the axle isn't actually located properly and will wrap over. I'm wondering whether you are actually referring to the self levelling strut which was fitted to the Range Rover classic? This looks like a large shock absorber and would have been mounted in the centre of the A-frame. If so, this would only have been fitted to Range Rover Classics and 110 County Station Wagens - they were never fitted to the Discovery. Cheers, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Dave, I'm a little concerned here about you removing the A-frame ball joint!!!! - The A-frame locates the rear axle and stops it from rotating fore and aft - without it, the axle isn't actually located properly and will wrap over. I'm wondering whether you are actually referring to the self levelling strut which was fitted to the Range Rover classic? This looks like a large shock absorber and would have been mounted in the centre of the A-frame. If so, this would only have been fitted to Range Rover Classics and 110 County Station Wagens - they were never fitted to the Discovery. Cheers, Matt Matt, thinking back I believe your are correct! It was the boge self levelling strut that I outed not the A frame Thinking back I remeber renewing the ball joint at the time - various increasing sizes of lump hammer and harsh language required (if i think back) followed by an eventual trip to a local engineering firm with a 50 ton press to remove the ruddy thing! Now the next question of course is why oh why have I returned to the mark bearing the green oval? I should have learn't my lesson a long time ago I have had this 94 200tdi for 1 day and already i have had to renew two wheel bearings, track the source of an engine oil leak, remove and tack weld the gear selector plate spring stop, renew reverse light switch and free up reverse gear gate lock thing. Just got to take the dash board out now and fix/replace blower motor. Is there a Land Rover equivalent of Alcoholics anonymous? Hi my names Dave and....I .....own a Land Rover... Thanks. Now going to get back to investigating my bren gun steering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Hi, I'm Matt and I've been a Land Rover owner for a number of years now.... Back to your steering Dave - a few things spring to mind.... - Steering column UJ's (as already mentioned above) - Slipping power steering drive belt - Steering box adjustment - sometimes they can be over adjusted and bind. - Swivel preload too high Jack up the front end up and put the front axle on stands with the wheels just off the ground - you can then work the steering from lock to lock in safety... Let us know how you get on...! All the best, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Cheers Mat will go through the list eliminating them one by one. How is the steering box adjusted? Should I be able to move th wheels from lock to lock by hand with the wheels off the ground drag link connected? Would I be able to move the steering box drop arm by hand disconnected from the drag link? I can't on either front. I can get the wheels to almost start to turn but then it becomes too hard. Presumably this is normal though? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Cheers Mat will go through the list eliminating them one by one. How is the steering box adjusted? Should I be able to move th wheels from lock to lock by hand with the wheels off the ground drag link connected? Would I be able to move the steering box drop arm by hand disconnected from the drag link? I can't on either front. I can get the wheels to almost start to turn but then it becomes too hard. Presumably this is normal though? Cheers Dave There is some adjustment of the preload in the steering box available - but it's very very easy to over adjust and get it too tight. Do any adjustment with the wheels off the ground and check as you go. On the top of the box you'll see a stud with a locknut on it (lock nut is about 17 - 19mm from memory) - the stud uses a hex key. Adjustment is just a case of holding the stud, undoing the lock nut and resetting the stud - then lock the setting with the locknut - much as you would with tappets. You probably won't move the steering box by pulling/pushing the droparm - that's normal. I can - just - but not without breaking a sweat! You should be able to move it with everything connected up by moving the roadwheel (hold the tyre at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions with the steering lock off!) though. Check the preload on the steering swivels though while you've got the draglink and trackrod off. Details on how to check/adjust the swivel preload are well covered in the manual and (I think) also in the tech archive on this forum. Hope this helps mate. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 There is some adjustment of the preload in the steering box available - but it's very very easy to over adjust and get it too tight. Do any adjustment with the wheels off the ground and check as you go. On the top of the box you'll see a stud with a locknut on it (lock nut is about 17 - 19mm from memory) - the stud uses a hex key. Adjustment is just a case of holding the stud, undoing the lock nut and resetting the stud - then lock the setting with the locknut - much as you would with tappets. You probably won't move the steering box by pulling/pushing the droparm - that's normal. I can - just - but not without breaking a sweat! You should be able to move it with everything connected up by moving the roadwheel (hold the tyre at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions with the steering lock off!) though. Check the preload on the steering swivels though while you've got the draglink and trackrod off. Details on how to check/adjust the swivel preload are well covered in the manual and (I think) also in the tech archive on this forum. Hope this helps mate. Matt Thanks for that Matt. Great help. Spot on! DaveJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 from experience, a steering box adjusted up too tight can feel like its sticky at certain points when you turn it, more than likely though it will be the column uj's. its common on smart cars, liberal amounts of 3 in 1 and seeing if it gets any better will help you locate it, temporary cure though, must be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 from experience, a steering box adjusted up too tight can feel like its sticky at certain points when you turn it, more than likely though it will be the column uj's. its common on smart cars, liberal amounts of 3 in 1 and seeing if it gets any better will help you locate it, temporary cure though, must be replaced. Cheers Ash will make the UJ's first port of call. They do look a little rusty! DaveJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Cheers Ash will make the UJ's first port of call. They do look a little rusty! DaveJ Cheers all. Got to have a go at the steering today and as you guys suggested it was the intermediate shaft UJ's (well 1 of them) seized solid. All sorted now. Proper Bo! DaveJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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