300tdi cam belt change - preparation issues

[Mr Harry]

Planning ahead to do the cam belt change myself, and having had a read of the tech guides I had some of questions I hope I can get help with

I have a retro fitted 300 tdi, which was a new engine from LR fitted in late 1998, so the VIN numbers of the vehicle are not of much help in determining the kit/ bits I need.

The engine number from what I can see is 2 – 583*57536*. No sign of any paint markings.

I'm looking at ordering the 300E timing belt kit from paddock, plus LHH100660 crank pulley, but wanted to check that this is the best kit to get with the lipped idler and earlier tensioner, or should I be looking at the kit with the non lipped idler and tensioner, such as the 'official' STC4096 kit? From what I have read there appears to be no problem in mixing the idlers and tensioner - as long as everything is aligned -is that the case?

I realise I could wait until I take it apart and get like for like, but I'm looking to have everything at hand when I do the job, as time is limited for the job i.e. only w/e's.

There appears to be an oil seal behind the crank pulley ( referred to in the tech guide as the crank front oil seal), is this best replaced, and if so, what is the part number?

The oil seal is part number I have is ERR4576, which can also be ERR7143 (later modified one). Is there one which is best to use, and is this the same seal for the crank and cover?

It may all become obvious when I get the started, but as this is the first time doing this, I'm trying to be well prepared for any potential problems.

Thanks all B)

[Mr Harry]

Just had a look under the bonnet and the engine number is actually

S16L00614A

[Mr Harry]

Anyone

[Jen]

Last time I bought an STC4096G kit it came with a lipped bottom pulley. The 'G' at the end of the part number signifies a "genuine spec" kit. I've not seen lipped tensioners or idlers so can't comment on them but never had a problem with this kit, and I've done more tha my fair share of cambelts! The kit contains the timing cover gasket, cambelt, bottom pulley and the tensioner, so you will still need to buy the oil seals.

You may also want to get an ERR4710 (number 10 in the picture) - O ring that sits on the crank behind the bottom pulley.

The Inner oil seal is ERR4575. If I were doing a cambelt I'd change this aswell as the one you mentioned which is in the cover (see picture).

Can't comment on the later oil seal as not used one before.

If you are a spannering type person it will all become obvious when it comes apart. If you are not mechanically minded give yourself plenty of time and fully read Les's post about how to do it.

Good luck!

Dan

Edit to add: Oooops.. sorry, just realised I'm logged in as Jen, not me so this is all from a womans perspective!

[rick]

From what i've seen and from talking to a couple of very switched on L/R specialist mechanics, the crank pulley to use is the Bearmach one (one piece ) as opposed to the OE one that uses spot welded lips.

These have a tendency to fail, shredding the belt in the process.

IMO you are probably better off using the later (non lipped) tensioner and idler pulley too. ( these use Ina bearings, which are very good)

The secret to belt life is the tension. Don't follow the manual, it is incorrect, L/R issued a revised (lower) spec with a TSB late in the engines life.

Follow the Difflock instructions and you won't go wrong.

From the official TSB dated 25/3/98.

. Remove the rocker cover and inspect for broken rocker arms and bent

pushrods. Should a rocker arm be broken the cylinder head must be removed

and inspection of all valves carried out to ensure they are not damaged,

i.e. tightness in a valve guide would signify a bent valve. Replace any

damaged components.

· If a cylinder head is removed, on completion of repair, refer to bulletin 10/02/94

for coolant refill procedure.

· Before fitting the new idler pulley

stud to either the new front cover, or

the original cover where this is

retained, ensure that the stud hole in

the front cover has a 2 mm x 45º

chamfer as shown, (illustration A).

If no chamfer is evident, produce one

using an appropriate countersink

tool.

· When fitting the new idler pulley, do

not refit the original spacer washer.

This is not required with the new

design and must be discarded.

· When fitting the new tensioner, do

not attempt to re-use the original

slotted washer and flange bolt.

These must be discarded as the

slotted washer is incorporated into

the bearing and the flange bolt is

replaced by the new cap head bolt.

· The new crankshaft gear has a flange added on each side. Before fitting,

ensure that these flanges have not suffered handling damage.

· The timing belt tension has changed from that published in the Workshop

Manual. The new method is as follows, it is essential that this procedure is

adhered to precisely:

a) Ensure that the timing marks are aligned and appropriate timing pins are used

as described in the Workshop Manual.

B) Fit idler pulley and tensioner assembly and tighten the idler securing nut to

45 Nm.

c) Loosen the three injection pump pulley fixings.

d) Locate timing belt onto pulleys.

e) Lightly tighten the tensioner locking screw then back off one full turn.

Ensure tensioner is free to move.

f) Using a dial type torque meter with

a maximum length of 250 mm

apply a torque of 11 Nm with the

torque meter positioned vertically

as shown, (illustration B).

g) Tighten the tensioner locking bolt

to 45 Nm.

h) Tighten the injection pump pulley

fixings to 25 Nm.

i) Remove timing pins.

It is no longer a requirement to rotate

the engine and repeat the tensioning

procedure.

j) On later vehicles, fit a new crankshaft front seal to the front cover plate (see

NOTE in PARTS INFORMATION for definition of specific vehicles), refit cover

plate and remaining covers and ancillaries as detailed in the Workshop

Manual.

k) Apply a dab of yellow paint at

least 2 cm square in the position

arrowed in the illustration to

indicate that one of the Parts

Option Kits has been fitted.