Marks 110
-
Posts
194 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Marks 110
-
-
Idler is on girly Disco's
Les.
Thanks for that.
Mark
-
Just been ordering some parts in preperation for replacing the timing belt on my 110. Whilst going through the list of parts I ordered a tensioner and an idler. After looking at the tech archive I don't think there is an idler of the defender engine, just a tensioner. Can anybody confirm this?
Mark
-
I can't remember the seal numbers but you will need afront cover gasket and a water pump gasket.They are both different depending on if it is a disco or defender engine.
Cheers for your help seals now ordered.
Mark
-
I'm about to fork out for a new release bearing and clutch for my defender 90, I'm going for a single mass billet flywheel and heavy duty clutch from Rakeway. While the lot is in parts I thought I might also go for an Ashcroft rebuilt box ( my present box is not the sweetest 90 I've ever changed gear with .... ).
There is a good price on exchange and fit with one of Ashcrofts recommended garages.. does anyone have any experience they can share, I'd appreciate a little help now rather than find out the hard way later.
Thanks in anticipation
Have an Ashcroft transfer and gearbox which have been in for 5 years and both still going strong. A few leaks and a lose grub screw (which was sorted easily enough)are the only problems I've had.
Mark
-
Will be attempting my first timing belt change this week and understand that I'll probably need to change the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals in the timing case. I suppose the crankshaft must have an inner and outer seal?
Does anybody have the part numbers for these and are they easy to change?
Cheers Mark
-
only create/cuase more problems if you thrash it mercilessly, be gentle with acceleration & be mindful the front axle isn't driving & adapt accordingly.
It's worth marking the position of the yoke so it goes back the same and also the sliding joint in case this comes apart. I remember pulling out the sliding joint to inspect it and then realising I hadn't marked it.
Suffered with vibrations above 65mph ever since as it had gone out of balance. Eventually cured with a new prop.
Mark
-
Is it actually over heating, ie boiling or throwing all the coolant out or is the guage going up making you think it has over heated, ie guage or sender related fault ?
Well it certainly threw out plenty of coolant when it blew two head gaskets!
I can't decide whether its running too hot and blowing gaskets or if its a head or gasket problem casuing combustion gases to leak into cooling system and making it run hotter. I am now running a different head which seems better. At least there's no excessive pressure in the cooling system although it still seems to be running slightly hotter than before.
Will keep you posted of any developments.
Cheers Mark
-
No i didnt, i used RTV sealant on mine HTH
Yeah I have a tube of RTV and to be honest was thinking of using that. I guess you have to work pretty quickly before it sets?
I presume yours has been OK then?
-
Hi
Have you actually used this? Just spoken to turners today but their engine builder is away so they couldn't confirm this is the stuff they use when they reassemble their engines. Need to be sure as if there is a leak between block and ladder frame it means taking engine out again to seperate them. Hylogrip 2000 is apparently very expensive but if its the best stuff I might get that.
Cheers Mark
-
How'd you do that then? If you've tried running it on water
, then that may have caused the head and head gasket some "issues", making it leak coolant ...Yep it ran on water after head gasket went but temp had been high for 6 months or more and still is. Not in red just very close, past halfway on gauge.
Mark
-
part number for Hylomar 2000 in my reply in this thread
Cheers for that.
-
Yes I didn't think the heater matrix itself could cause the engine to overheat. Will let you know when I eventually find the cause of the problem. Have a new radiator in the garage but will fix bent con-rod first and see if it runs any cooler then.
Cheers Mark
-
Have been told by someone from a reputable land rover engine company that a blocked heater matrix could cause engine overheating. Does this sound feasible?
If so I guess an airlock in the matrix would casue the same problem. Just wondering but the heater matrix on my engine (200 tdi) is one of the highest points in the cooling system, ideal for trapping air? How does it escape?
Mark
-
About to bite the bullet and remove my engine in the next few days to sort out bent con-rod. I need to get hold of some non setting sealant to join the ladder frame back to the block when I put it back together.
Its listed in the land rover manual as HYLOGRIP 2000.
Anybody know who sells it?
Cheers Mark
-
You can use the Disco FIP on your Defender tdi engine.don't need the Disco turbo.
Great, I'll keep it as spare. Will it need any ajustments or just fit straight on?
Cheers Mark
-
I have an injection pump which came with a spare 200tdi engine I bought for the defender. The engine is from a disco. Just wondering if the pump would work with the original defender set up or would it need the discovery turbo as well.
Mark
-
my old vauxhall did that, I just beat the dash repeatedly while doing 60mph and it freed up
A friends 110 200tdi did exactly the same as it passed 200,000 miles. The needle still shows the correct speed of travel but the numbers have stopped revolving. Wondered if it was still legal in this state?
Mark
-
If you fit a new small-end bearing, then it'll have to be reamed to match the piston (gudgeon) pin, so a new conrod would be better as the small-end bearing will already be fitted and reamed. Big-end shells can just be fitted - like for like, so no problem there. If you are going to go to the length of removing the ladder frame on a 200TDi engine, then for the cost of it (about £50), then replace the main and big-end shells while you are 'in there'. Big-end, and main shells are phosphor bronze, so wear is easily visible (if you can see copper, then replace), small end bearings can easily be identified as being worn by wear marks on them. I would remove the head first and measure piston protrusion, then go from there before taking the whole engine apart.
Les.
Cheers Les
That seems like good advice but as a total novice to engine work I'm concerned that the more I do the more likely I am to something wrong and ruin the engine. I don't mind spending a bit of money as the engine needs to be reliable for a trip to France in the summer but are these jobs relatively easy?
I've thought about having it reconditioned but it sems a shame if the rest of the engine is in reasonable health, there may be another 100,000 miles left in it!
Mark
-
No comparative figures I'm afraid, but replacing the conrod will most likeley be all that's needed. Engine out though I'm afraid - the ladder frame prevents this job being done in-situ.
Les.
Would you use a new bearing or stick with old if its in reasonable condition?
Mark
-
Finally got round to doing a compression test on the 110. Results as follows
No.1-435psi
No.2-450psi
No.3-440psi
No.4-365psi
These results would seem to tally up with the fact that the conrod on no.4 is suspected to be bent. Landrover recommend a difference of no more than 70psi between cylinders so my figures do exceed that.
The other readings seem pretty good to me for 160.000 miles. It took about four strokes to reach max compression.
The vehicle runs fine once warmed up but chucks out lots of smoke for a couple of minutes when started from cold and seems a bit 'lumpy'.
Wondering whether I can get away with just replacing conrod if rest of engine is in reasonable health?
Just wondering if anybody else had any figures for comparison?
Cheers Mark
-
i must have been unlucky twice then had to have a head on a defender and a disc 200tdi
David
Mines blown 2 gaskets due to bad pitting where the head meets the coolant passageway in the block (that triangular shaped bit). I've now bought an engine from a disco and am currently using the head off that. Some of the heads I was offered were in very poor condition so I reckon good ones are becoming scarce.
Has anybody got experience of fitting a 300tdi head to a 200tdi block? What mods are needed?
MArk
-
When you get a 300 you get an R380, and if you've driven an LT77 you'll appreciate this. I went 200TDI and picked up a short-R380 to swap in, but it was more because I wanted dead simple and the Series engine mounting location with all that nice room between the rad and the engine.
(OK and for weight bias) but if I was doing it again I'd get something with an R380 already I think.Although a big fan of the 200tdi you can no longer obtain new cylinder heads and good ones are becoming much harder to find. If I was buying now I'd probably go for the 300 knowing that if I were to experience any head problems the units are available brand new and quite reasonable too.
Mark
-
A bent conrod will almost certainly cause it. It will have the effect of lowering the compression ratio and you will not get complete combustion, especially when the engine is cold. Unburnt fuel on a diesel = white smoke.
Mark.
Yeah that makes sense. Doesn't run too bad when warm. I've been meaning to fix it for a while but I think I'm going to get the engine reconditioned as I can't remove the conrod withoput splitting engine and gearbox.
Just a case of saving the pennies before I send it off to Turners.
Mark
-
I will pull them out , on sunday and have a look.
Hi Chris
I have similar problem with my 200tdi, smokes like hell from cold (white/blue smoke) for a minute or two then clears and runs ok. I know I have a bent conrod but I'm not sure this is causing the smoke. Was thinking maybe valve seals as injectors have been tested ok. As I have a spare set of glow plugs I might pop those in and see if there's any change.
Mark
, then that may have caused the head and head gasket some "issues", making it leak coolant ...
200 tdi Timing Problem
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just been helping a friend replace the tming belt on his 200 tdi 110. Adjusted the timing slightly as it was out. Just got it all back together and its running very rough, lots of smoke etc. (I'm sure the timings now slightly out)
I've just removed the inspection cover on the timing case and inserted timing pin then checked flywheel housing and grove is lined up perfectly. What have we done wrong?
I can't think what could be wrong unless we've damaged the pump (trying to turn it when locked) but then surely it wouldn't run at all. I did mistakenly loosen the large nut in the centre of the FIP pully whilst trying to rock the pump to get the pin in?
The biggest problem is my friend is due to travel back to London tomorrow!
Any ideas?
Mark