Marks 110
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Posts posted by Marks 110
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VDO is just a Trade name for Siemens VDO gauges. my temp gauges is a Td5 unit, but a VDO temp plus matching sender will be better,as you can see when the stat opens/closes.
my engine still has it's viscous fan fitted & the temp never gets above halfway regardless of what type of work it's doing.
Mark -- what stae is the radiator in, are all the cooling fins intact particularlly the bottom 4 rows on the engine side, a few years back my temp wouls rise to the nearly in the red & a new rad cured it as the old one had next to no fins left in the bottom.
Just been out and checked, fins are all intact and should be as rad was re-cored about 4 years ago. As far as I can recall my temp used to sit just under halfway and never move even when driving through over the pyrenees in 30 degree plus heat.
Mark
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TBH it sounds like exactly the same road that i headed down.
I don't doubt anything that western says and the 88 stat probably is the right one. Problem is that i couldn't get an 88 degree stat to open at the same temp as my old one.
If ya do some internet searching (I did loads at the time), loads of people complain of their 200tdi's running just over half way. I even changed my radiator as i got convinced that it needed it.
Also drilled a 1.5mm hole in the stat plate. This caused the engine to take a decade to warm up and got to 3/4 on the needle when under heavy load anyway.
Some people, and i think western may have done this as well, fit a VDO guage out of a td5 as they apparantly read more accurately.
As you know i just fitted an 82 degree stat and all worked as it did.
I got an electric fan as well just in case you were wondering.
Yeah for the sake of a few quid I might try the 82 deg or maybe look into a more accurate gauge. At the risk of sounding a bit dumb what does VDO stand for. The only warning sign I got before the head gasket going was the gauge going virtually to the red in before it backed off a bit as the thermostat opened. This happen for a few weeks until the thing eventually went up in smoke.
I'm not doubting Western either but it certainly feels a bit uncomfortable with the gauge past half way during high speed driving.
Mark
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If you cant get anymore air out of the system,then i would suspect the master cylinder is the culprit.
But.....then again,it has taken me a few attempts in the past to get a decent pedal so have another go at bleeding,starting at the master cylinder(crack off pipes one at a time and check that its actually pushing some fluid out!)and then from wheel furthest away from the master cylinder etc etc
If its drums on the rear are they properly adjusted? This has caused me some braking problems in the past - ecessive travel at pedal. IIRC it is also possible to fit the shoes wrong way around. I think theres a leading edge and trailing edge but not 100% sure.
Mark
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just slightly past the vertical when stationary would be fine, as it will drop when on the move due to the ram air across the rad surface. make sure any thermostat has the little jiggle pin & bleed hole in it, others without can cause problems.
Cheers I'll check the stat. I only repaced it a couple of months ago as I thought it may be causing the problem. However when I tested them in a pan of water brought slowly to the boil the old stat opened up slightly before the new one although they were both marked 88 deg. Can't remember now if it had that bleed thing or not but I'll check. The needle sits just past half way when driving, a little too close to the red for comfort. I have no fan but I don't suppose it makes any difference whilst moving.
Mark
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While driving today when slowing down to a stop with the clutch down I could feel and hear what seemed to be the props banging and feel the car lumping to a stop. My guess is its time to replace the props and UJs but would it be worth trying replacing the UJs first?
It did 300 miles for work alright today but from the feel of it its all about to go wrong.
I'm not sure if it is the U.J's (sounds like it might be something else) but its easy to tell from under the vehicle. Try turning the prop by hand or use a large screwdriver and any play will soon become evident. Also check the sliding joint on the prop. Mine had worn splines, the only remedy is a new prop, not too expensive though and comes complete with U.J's.
When seperating any parts make sure you mark them first so they can be put back in exactly the same alignment, otherwise the prop may become unbalanced indicated by a rumbling noise at certain speeds. (I know this from experience!)
Mark
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Defender 200Tdi should have a 88 degree state that's factory genuine fit, I tried a 82 & found the heater wasn't giving enough hot air, so went back to a 88.
check your phone book for 'diesel injection' or Bosch agents
So you wouln't be worried if the temp sat just past halfway?
To be honest I've never had a lot of heat anyway, my mates 110 is certainly a lot warmer.
Cheers mark
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When you say you replaced the gasket, does that mean that you also had the head skimmed / polished ?
If so
Landrover say that a 200tdi should not be skimmed, although personally i would do it if needed.The reason they say not to skim the head at all is cos its known to them that the valves will touch the tops of the pistons.
The way around this is to seat / recess the valves in slightly deeper.
Also if ya getting the injectors checked be aware that most 'specialists' say that they can check the spray pattern / injectors but in fact they are only able to check the first stage. The normal problem with 200tdi injectors is not going into the second stage which causes underfueling or stubborness as i call it.
Temp just above half way could be if ya decided to replace the thermostat whilst having the engine stripped down. Everyone and their dog states an 88degree stat. However mine always ran slightly hot with an 88 stat. Reason being an 88 stat starts to open at 88 meaning the coolant temp was around 95. I fitted an 82 degree stat which means my actual coolant temp is 88/89 degrees and strangely my temp needle sits bang on half way.
Head was skimmed but valve recess was still ok (slightly over actually) as last time I had the head off I'd been a bit too agressive when lapping the valves in (someone told me to do it with a cordless drill and I regretted it!). What would be the consequences of excessive valve recesses - lower compressions? I'm sure that the performance wasn't as good afterwards.
Injectors were recon items only 14 months ago but I wonder if one could have been damaged by water in the bore. To be honest I've not been that happy with the recon injectors they didn't seem to make any difference, worse if anything. The main reason I changed them was that Turners said that incorrect spray patterns was a cause of head gasket failure.
I'd booked the 110 in at a local 'diesel specialist' 6 months earlier who claimed the injectors were 'baked' in the head and that he'd have to take the head off to get em out for testing. He still charged me £50 labour for attempting to get the injectors out with a slide hammer.
So when it came to stripping down the head I was expecting all sorts of trouble. As it happened a slight turn with a small adjustable and they all slid straight out, the lying b.....d!
Thats why I wondered if anyone new anywhere reputable to get them tested.
Maybe I'll try an 82 degree stat I'm pretty sure the Haynes manual recommends it anyway.
Cheers
Mark
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could be fuel related. when overfueling diesel burns off in exhaust and emits sparks. check injectors and fuel related. seen this before in many cars especially when blocked cat or exhasust system.
Yeah I'll get the injectors checked, there's a bit of black smoke under acceleration which I guess is also a sign of overfueling.
Don't suppose anyone knows where to take them in the Lincolnshire area or is it best to send them away?
Went out on a short journey today and ran Ok, no sign of sparks and knocking noise not apparent although engine didn't even get up to temp.
Thanks for your suggestions
Mark
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could it not be the turbo if you have a knock coming from the manifold and its bits of fins coming out of the exhaust??
drop the inlet pipe off and check for free play
dave
I thought that as well but the vanes on the impeller look fine. There's a small amount of play but I don't think it's excessive.
I'm not sure if the knock is more of a loose bearing type noise. Could have damaged something when the head gasket went, there must have been some excessive force within the engine as one of the pushrods was bent, possibly caused by coolant in the bores?
Mark
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This 'plus gas' sounds alright, what is it and where can you buy it?
Mark
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Did you replace the head gasket with one of the correct thickness ???
They have got dots on them to show how thick they are. replace it with one thats too thin and you may get colisions + sparks.
Yes I checked the height of the pistons and selected the corresponding gasket - turned out to be the same as was already on - 3 hole. Will try driving it again today and see if sparks continue. Wonder if it was just buring off some muck or soot deposits?
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theres a growing site called landroversreuntited you could try, following the friendsreunited format. My 1st ( rdv 158h ) wasnt there, but you might have better luck..
Almost given up hope but I'll give that site a try.
Cheers Mark
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After replacing the head gasket and sorting out a couple of problems (missing injector washer and pushrod not located correctly). I thought I'd sorted it. It now seems to have developed a noise coming from the manifold side of the engine. Sounds like a heavy knock at idle which becomes more high pitched as revs increase.
Then last night driving home in the dark I thought I'd try going flat out a up steep incline. Went fairly well (doesn't seem to lack much power) and temp gauge sits just past half way once warmed up. However much to my horror I could now see sparks being emitted out of the exhaust. This carried on for a couple of minutes and now seems to have cleared, I noticed the car following kept a respectable distance!
I no expert with engines so does anybody know what might cause this, I presume it's not a good sign!
Mark
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did you remove the injectors ???
did you clean the injector holes out in the head.
did you fit new copper washers on injectors , or if not did you anneal the old ones by heating them to red on the gas and then immediately dropping them in water to soften them .
if the old washers are used and not annealed again they wont seal very well at all and especially if you still have carbon in the injector holes in heads that hasnt been cleaned out with a wire brush on drill .
chuffing noise could be one or more of the injectors not sealing , especially if youve had the injectors out .
also is the head gasket in the right way up , it should be marked TOP , but the telltale sign if its in wrong is that on one corner of head you will see a bit sticking out which shouldnt be and also where the bit stick out which denoted TOP of gasket , it will be towards rear of te black rather than at front .
intake gasket and exhaust gasket can split between ports .
Just removed the rocker gear and checked the pushrods were positioned correctly. No visible damage to slides either. Replaced rocker gear and reset valve clearances.
Then as if by magic smoke disappears, (well almost, a bit of black on hard acceleration but its always done that) thanks Les.
However I can still hear this chuffing noise and eventually worked out its coming out of No.3 injecter. Took it out only to find no copper washer, so had a look at parts left over from head gasket job and sure enough there was one new injector washer left over - whoops! I didn't read your reply until after working this out but you were right!
Anyway thats now sorted and feeling pretty chuffed took her out for a drive to fill up with diesel. I could then hear a knocking noise that seems to be coming from the manifold side of the engine. Next thing after filling up, by now its dark, I look behind and there's sparks coming out of the exhaust. I'm no expert on engines but I'm pretty sure this isn't a good sign. Anyway by the time I got home the sparks had receded but this knocking nosie definately wasn't there before. What else can I check, tried to pinpoint the noise with a mechanis stethascope but no luck as yet.
Thanks
Mark
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I did this once and broke one of the cam followers easy to do but didn't half drive me mad
if you take the rocker cover off you see if you've done it very quickly.
I'll take the rocker gear off this morning and check the push rods again.
How would I know if the cam follower was broken? Did your engine show similar symptoms?
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did you check all the pushrods for straightness ?
are the rockers sat in the pushrods & cam followers correctly ?
was the timing altered at all ?
Yes I checked the other pushrods which seemed straight.
Whats the best way of making sure the pushrods are seated correctly? I think there ok I made sure the tops were engaged with the rocker arms as I tightened the rocker bolts.
Could the timing have been affected? I haven't altered anything I don't think. Is there a way of checking without removing the timing case and pulley etc
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Replaced the head gasket on my 200tdi after it gave up a few weeks ago and started to burn water (gasket had blown through from no.3 cylinder to to one of the triangular shaped coolant passageways). Also replaced one of the pushrods which was bent.
After putting it all back together its obvious something is wrong. Lots of smoke at low speeds, white and blue which clears as revs increase although then it also kicks out a bit of black smoke for good measure. The engine also sounds lumpy (as though it could be running on three cylinders) lack of power also evident, although as revs increase it seems to pick up.
Then there's the noise - almost a chuffing sound at tickover which at full revs sounds more metallic as though a valve is going to shoot through the head. could it be a broken ring? I guess something must have gone wrong to have bent one of the pushrods.
I realise it could be almost anything but would appreciate ideas on what to check next.
Head was skimmed and valve clearances reset by the way.
Any help much appreciated
Mark
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The DVLA would be able to tell you if it's still about, IIRC there's an online reg plate check or such like.
Cheers,
Just checked on the database but it is not recognised. There is a number to ring so I'll try it, they might be able to give me more info.
Anybody got one for sale?
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I'd like to trace the whereabouts of my old series 3 registration OAD953W. I traded it in for my current vehicle (defender 110) about 8 years ago and fear it may have been broken for spares although it was in good condition with an mot. Any ideas on how to track it down much appreciated, or even better does anybody know its whereabouts? if it still exists.
Anyway the fact is I'd quite like to get hold of a series 3 again. Must be an origional station wagon with safari roof and split rear door. (Not sure what the're called but my old one had a drop down tailgate and the top half swung up and was held by a couple of struts).
It would be great to find out what happened to OAD953W, I knew I'd regret trading her in but at the time was desperate for the cash. Of course the dream scenario is to get her back one day, a very long shot I know!
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If you want a sat nav type device then Road angel do one that has OS maps, called the Adventurer i think.
Personally i use a 2nd hand lap top, Fugawi map software and a garmin etrex gps as an aerial.
Depends on how big you want it all to be and what you want to spend.
Sorry bit of novice when it comes to GPS and mapping software. Wonder if you could help.
Was looking at getting a garmin gps for walking etc. Am I right in thinking this will link up to my laptop with the correct software. I'd like to use O.S. type maps if possible. Any idea how much the software would be? I presume the gps links up via a usb type cable?
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North Offroad are the dogs dangleys for quality cages.
Glad you're ok.
I think I'll look into getting myself a cage!
We normally take the landy to France in the summer loaded up with 4 canoes on the roof which makes it top heavy and a rollover much more likely. Dread to think of the outcome on a twisty Pyranean descent.
mark
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If you have the patience to wait, I might be able to send you a replacement head, hoping to finish my project about Christmas, depending on how yours is, possibly a tu rbo too, engine is about 130k miles.
If you've got a spare head I'd be interested Craig.
Having mine skimmed today but the pitting is quite deep so i'm not that confident it will last much longer and will change it if I can come across a better one.
Also a mate of mine runs a 200tdi 110 with suspected head problems so he's looking for a spare as well. Send us a PM when your ready to get rid if you like.
Mark
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I would expect coolant to be in No3 cylinder as the gasket had blown between it and and the water jacket - it's also common for oil/water to be in the cylinders when the head is removed anyway due to there being coolant left in the head when you take it off and it drains out. The amount you skim off a head is no longer so important anymore - head savers can be made to replace any material that's removed from the head in the skimming process (so long as you know how much has been removed).
Unless your turbo is obviously knackered - I would repair the engine and put it all back together and see how it runs. A worn turbo shaft bearing may still last a long time - no point in replacing it if you don't know the condition of the engine until you hear it running.
Les.
Measured the piston protusion today seems to be pretty even max about 0.72mm min about 0.58 so I reckon the conrods are OK wahat do you think?
The engine seems to turn freely enough. Is there any way of ckecking the wear of pistons/ bores. The engine uses a fair bit of oil but a lot of it seems to be blown back into the air flter via the crankcase breather.
Mark
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Hi Mark,
You can get the head skimmed and you may not need too much taken off.
As to how much you can take off I'm not exactly certain but the deciding factor is the protrusion of your pistons above the block (check they are in tolerance, the pistons protrude above the block face when at TDC) and then the gap between the valves when seated and the face of the head.
If you read between the lines you are effectively checking there is enough room for the piston to come TDC (Top Dead Centre) and clear all valves/head as the engine works.
The clearance can be measured by using a straight edge across the face of the piston recess in the head and feeler gauges between the valves and the straight edge.
Measure them before skimming and then get checked again after you get the head skimmed.
If they are outside the tolerance on return you can get the valve seats recut to effectively recess the valves further into the head and hence give you the correct clearance of valve face and head face.
With the head in tolerance and the piston protrusion in tolerance you can check to see which head gasket is best suited but you may find that the original (three hole) is well inside the limits.
Hope this isnt too confusing and is of help.
Best regards
Grant
EDITED TO ADD: Check Les' technical thread for checking the piston protrusion.
Yeah after checking the technical thread that makes sense. Any thoughts on how to check the turbo?
Cheers for your help. I'll check the piston protusion tomorrow, I guess this will also show if the conrods are bent.
Thanks again
Mark
Landrover say that a 200tdi should not be skimmed, although personally i would do it if needed.
200 tdi fireworks!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
No. I haven't bothered with the fan for a few years (apart from the pyranees trip). I'll put the fan and cowling back on and road test tomorrow although I wouldn't have thought it would make much difference unless the vehicle was stationary. Never noticed any difference when I took it off either. Was just looking to get a couple of extra mpg.
Might be worth changing the temp sender, would be interesting to see if it makes any difference.
Mark