sighnbox
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Posts posted by sighnbox
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I only tow every few years but want to be legal when I do so ............Even tho I've all ready been stopped by the police for a missing number plate on the trailer which was loaded up with 300-400 paving slabs and not a single mention about me having a towing licence (I didn't even know you had to have one )
I've been all over the country towing with a fully loaded up 110 with the roof rack fully loaded etc 7 kids in the landy, dogs and sankey loaded to overflowing ..................Have done it for years ignorance is bliss ........then some one told me about a towing licence ..........and ruined my dreamy world of towing ignorance
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Hi guys simple one (he says har har)
I've a post 1997 licence (just cat B) no E Always motorbike and side car before
200TDI 110
Sankey trailer (standard not wide track)
What can I pull/tow can I even tow it ?????
The Government web site says .......Gobbledygook to me
Licences held from 1 January 1997
If you passed your driving test after 1 January 1997 and have an ordinary category B (car) licence, you can:
- drive a vehicle up to 3,500kg MAM towing a trailer of up to 750kg MAM
- tow a trailer over 750kg MAM as long as the combined MAM of the trailer and towing vehicle is no more than 3,500kg
Thanks there
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Are nope new as well HD ones on new prop .............That would be to easy lol
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What as in lose bolts ???
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I've a slight leak of transfer box oil but cant see where its coming from looks up hight and since the new clutch a small drip black oil out my drain hole ...
But far worse problems now Friday driving along brake hard and tink tink tink .....drive brake hard tink tink tink brake soft nothing ...........brake hard and sounds like something ratterling about in the bell housing.........and when I brake hard is being shot forward or when I reverse up our very step drive .................New clutch etc less than 700 mile ago arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
So if any seals are to be done if I do end up having it looked at/separated again that's the time
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Would be interested to hear the result as mine is getting to the stage where it needs doing again
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Mine start of normal and will turn off as they should the first few goes THEN will start acting as above just keep wiping after you turn them off.......They will eventually switch off but could be 5 mins of 20 mins ...........................................................What was the out come as have the same problem and changed the park switch (1990 110 Defender)
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Hi Guys any one any ideas for nice spot lights time to renew them all as look old and tierd ??
I'm looking at 8" or 9" for the bull bar (defender polly one) and as big as I can get away with for the roof lights x 4
So far looked at
the RDX 5" and 8"
and Sims 9" spots (which are Hella 3000 driving spots copies)
Any other ideas ?
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Next on the list buy a dam good set spanners and socket set ......you will need em lol
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Just out of curiosity WHY ????
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Yer dead right B and Q do sell that mesh saw it in the metal rack when buying some steel to make a battery clamp At £196.64 get to B&Q and bet you can make it cheaper or even get a local metal man to make it and it would work out cheaper.
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It is a lot darker blue than it looks in the pics guys ....the flash make it look real bright blue
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All sorted guys and thanks again to every one for the help
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Sam's trim's done all my seats and roof lining and cubby box highly recommend her
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All the wiring is in place as in had the front roof down and all the dash apart to run the wire to the switch so if it works and its SAFE I'm happy with it like that else it means the dash and roof all out again.
So what about the gauge wire as mentioned in my post above
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OK thats a massive relief amazing what a sleep can do lol.
Ok so the main wire from each pair is 17 amp twin core why it comes all the way back to the battery.
From each connection 30 on the relays to the battery via a fuse 17 amp wire PER pair
Ok from connections 86 on the relay what are chained together then on to the head light high beam wire..........What amp wire ?
And from pin 85's on the relay (chained together then on to the dash toggle switch...and then out to bulkhead earth ) Thats where I've used the 8 amp single wire ....this I hope is ok as was the dash and roof out to run it there....
and while I'm hear guys on that fused busbar the other wire is the power wire to my stereo..........what amp wire for that ?
So basicly with my roof lights I've the on/off switch on a earth no 85 rather than the main beam head light feed no 86 and thats all ok
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Rather than the drawing above guys now having had a sleep would the way below be ok
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Ok guys just checking is this how it should be ???? or at least would be ok ????
The wire named main beam wire being the high beam feed wire to the head light ........(what amp wire should this be)
and while I'm here is 8 amp wire ok to power the car stereo ?
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Hang on this is a better diagram sounds like if messed it right up
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Pic on way
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Yes the 4 roof lights earth wires goes to no 85 on relays so 2 x spots earth wire per relay
the earth goes in to the relay on a spade terminal on each spade terminal the earth goes in but I all so on the same spade terminal I have a earth coming out .....I have then taken each earth out wire from both relays and soldered them together and into a single 8 amp wire this goes of to my dash to a switch so I can turn them off .....wire in to switch .....wire out switch to bulkhead earth point
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Not sure but after two days work think I may of messed up my lights
Ok I have 4 x 55W roof lights
1 30A relay per two lights
2 cables 2 lights per cable
1 x Red wire from each pair spot lights goes in each relay no 87
1 x Red wire per pair out of each relay to the 15A fuse bus box out from relay No 30
feed from the head lights main beam single wire chained from one relay to the next no 86 on relays
Ok Earth wire from each pair in to relays 85 a wire all so out of the same connector on each relay is then soldier together and joined to a single 8 amp earth wire this then goes to my dash to a toggle switch out of the switch to a earth on the bulk head ..
Is the 8amp earth wire heavy enough wire to the switch ???.
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That looks good and worth teh money the way my Landy eats batteries
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Well can confirm guys it was a faulty/duff battery that was showing full on the charger but a duffer when turn the key....New battery on and she running great again
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Starting problems yet again
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi guys
Land rover has been fine for months driving in the city today after 3-4 stops got in turned the key and nothing all dash lights on just not turning over. Rapid turn the key 20-30 times and she started ok on the button and started fine since ....now I did have loads problems a while back like this but since fitting a new battery it was all ok until now....???????????
Below some my old postings from previous staring problems
OK my 1990 110 fitted with 200tdi ......After leaving my landy for a while I went to turn the key and NOTHING at first I thought it was the alarm system so re wired all that back in. Made no difference
The next day went out and rapid turn the key in frustration and after about 40 turns it fired in to life next day same thing turn the key and nothing ...rapid turn the key over and over many times and then starts but sluggish...
The more I have driven it the better this problem has got with it only doing it every now and then but still sluggish to start on the first start of the day and if it has done it a few turns of the key will start it rather than 30-40 turns....OK TIME TO SORT IT
I cleaned all my earth straps and battery terminals and then turn the key and BANG fires in to life instant no sluggish start at all....yes mended he thinks....he thinks wrong
I drive it for a whole day must have started it 40 plus times and all is ok good starting ...next few days all ok and instant start on the days first turn over.... then all of a sudden in the middle of the day after driving it turn the key and nothing again turn it off and back on and it starts .......10 mins later turn the key and nothing hold the key on and suddenly wer wer wer very very slow and then fires up .
Its been fine for a whole week after that but went for a new starter anyway .......New starter fitted and connect the earth lead and fire it up and the starter keeps spinning wont disengage ????? New starter is faulty ??? and any ideas PLEASE
New top RAC battery last year
2 years ago new ignition barrel
Then.....
The old starter was put back on temporary and it all works fine so I can only assume it was the new Bearmach starter (£88.95) that was faulty.......(That's being picked up tomorrow for a refund)
I went to Fakenham Auto electrical for another replacement one and they had sold there last WAI one between me phoning and me getting there ARRRRRRRRRR
So for the same as the WAI one £95 They supplied me with a remanufactured Bosch one with the Landy badge stamped into it so presume its a remanufactured genuine one..... (ERR5009) Not sure if thats a good or bad price for one of those
So will see what happens tomorrow when its on.......
ANOUTHER NEW STARTER
Ok all connected up and turn the key and the land rover starts turn the key off and the solenoid still spins the only way to stop it spinning is to disconnect the earth battery terminal ...then put the earth back on and the land rover tries to start the cog clicks in place even with or with out the trigger wire connected or turning the key
Ok its gone to my mates and had an auto electrician out and ......with the new starter on with the battery (which is just holding 11 amps) and a booster box on it starts fine and the starter disengages ........But with just the battery fitted to the landy try to start it and the starter keeps spinning ...The auto electricians explanation was that the volts and amps and that if low amps its allowing the starter to arc across and keep spinning ......Does this sound right ????
Solved was TWO brand new faulty starters in a row and original problem was a doggy trigger wire
No it was not then fitted a new battery and all was ok Untill now
PLEASE SOME ONE ANY IDEAS ?????