bobzilla7
-
Posts
113 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by bobzilla7
-
-
Even tho some of you don't feel that it will ever be looked at, we have to do all we can - complacency is why we lost our RuPPs in the first place and if we're not careful we may just lose our UCRs as well.
Thanks for everone who has signed. It wasn't me that put it up there but there's no point in doing another that is spelt correctly as that would make us seem disorganised.
-
-
LSD now in rear axle!
Saving pennies for a front one.
-
Have decided to leave it where it is - looks like it's already as low as it can go!
Thanks for all the comments.
-
bobzilla, this is where I'm moving the batterybox on my 90 although, unlike you, I'm only partially sinking it so the top level with the top of a mounted 8274. Having looked and done some measurements I think I worked out lowering it 150mm would be safe but I honestly can't remember. As others have said you should deffinatly allow for hitting the bumpstops and, if you want to be on the safe side, the chassis. The last thing you want to happen is loose a spring and bumpstop and then have the A-frame hit the box and smash the batteries leaving you stranded!
Thanks Will. I think I'll test it without springs etc as suggested. Mine is partway thru thye floor already, but the floor sits higher on a Tomcat because of the spaceframe. It's possible I don't need to drop it all the way. Will keep you all posted on the outcome. Many thanks!
-
You could always remove your rear springs and let the axle sit on the bump stop,then add an inch or so for the bumpstops getting compressed, that way you'll NEVER have the a frame going past the maximum point..... if you do then the battery getting damages will be the last of your worries!
Yes, good point!
-
Come to think of it the A frame is part of the whole self levelling strut drama. The strut compensates for heavy loads pushing the body/chassis up when it is subjected to the load. So it follows that the A frame only gets further away when articulating?
Am I wrong?
Thins was my line of thought. Except the self leveling unit has long gone!
-
DM do them
, varying sizes of spigot tooThese are clamp on types and I would effectively require an in-line type, even tho it would be end of line. Had a look around DT site but couldn't see anything else suitable.
-
Measure the distance between the axle and the bump stop, or safe still between the axle and chassis rails, that is how much the ball joint end of the A-frame can come up by, then you should be able to work out how much clearance you have.
Are you sure it would travel that much?
I thought the axle pivotted on the ball joint mainly, and the A frame didn't do a huge amount of up and down movement.
I maybe quite wrong of course!
-
Can't answer your A frame question but just thought that you could get the battery box from a classic mini and sink it into the floor - might not be deep enough though
Too small I would have thought.
I'd clad it in aluminium anyway, which would be easier.
-
My battery currently resides in the back of my vehicle and takes up space I'd like for other things so I'd like to lower it. My thoughts are to weld brackets between the chassis rails, but to the underneath, for the battery to sit on (it's currently sitting on brackets across the top of the rails).
The question is: Does the A-Frame move up between the chassis rails at any point when articulating?
If so, I need a rethink!
The vehicle is a Range Rover based Bowler Tomcat.
thanks
-
My battery currently resides in the back of my vehicle and takes up space I'd like for other things so I'd like to lower it. My thoughts are to weld brackets between the chassis rails, but to the underneath, for the battery to sit on (it's currently sitting on brackets across the top of the rails).
The question is: Does the A-Frame move up between the chassis rails at any point when articulating?
If so, I need a rethink!
The vehicle is a Range Rover based Bowler Tomcat.
thanks
-
IIR we used to link them to equalise the action of the two carbs. (or am I talking obout something else here?)
Jas
I was thinking of linking them.
Is there anywhere I can order the small K&Ns on-line? They sound a little large but I'm sure I could adapt it.
-
I've got K&N air filters bolted onto the SUs and there's two breather pipes for the carbs which I've been thinking about putting some sort of small filters on them to stop the dust getting in.
Can anyone suggest something suitable?
I was considering a small fuel filter - would this do the trick?
See ebay item number 140054834955.
thanks
-
its an old series
Old Series are far better looking!
My old Lightweight used to be called Tonk!
You must have some very flexible suspension on there! B)
-
so if there was a Torsen torque-biasing diff in an axle, could/should you put it on a rolling road to test the brakes?
probably a dumb question.........
No Idea! Nice truck by the way!
-
I think I've changed my mind again Dale
I liked the Truetrac in the old 90 and reckon that with the auto box it'll be woth having another rear Truetrac.Go for it! I think I'm sold on this set up!
-
I have a Detroit on the back of my 110 and am happy with it on road. Just don't turn the wheel with the clutch in, ie I 'drive' into parking spaces else it clonks at the back a lot.
And yes, in a Bowler or a 90" the wheelbase is too short for a Detroit, causing it to unlock and lock all the time. The manual says that the locker should not be used in short wheelbases, which they define as < 127"
The Disco/RR 100" wheelbase is also a bit short. I know a guy who took one out cos his wife didn't like it.
On that point, a Detroit in a 127" LR is not noticeable, according to a guy I talked to.
Might be why it wasn't great in my 80 then! Didn't seem to lock all the time, or rather it unlocked more often.
-
A TruTrac is a Torsen-type diff, and indeed is what I have in the back axle of my Ninety. If you want to see it in action, I might be able to cross-axle it for you somewhere around Bristol or Stroud on Sunday?
Basically it keeps going when I don't expect it to. It got here without the centre diff locked...
Cool! Sorry, didn't get to my computer this weekend, but I might be able to catch up with you next weekend. TruTracs looking more popular than I expected!
-
Consensus seems to be varied then. I wasn't that happy on road with my Detroit locker. The Detroit TruTrac is Torque biased, is it not?
-
has anyone got a Max Traction kit fitted to their vehicle in Wiltshire or surrounding counties? Would love to see it in action as I've been considering getting one myself.
-
What's you're motivation for going LSD rather than locker? Not saying one's right / wrong but I'm just interested.
I wasn't particular fond of the auto locker that I had and would prefer something that worked more in harmony with the vehicle if that makes sense! Oh, and I have a spare one!!!
Read an article in Total Off Road where one chap had done the very same thing.
I guess if the wheel is in the air, the diff would work the same as an open diff and would only perform really well with at least some traction. Or maybe with a little use of the brakes.
I also want something I can fit and forget - don't want on-board compressors, or cable lockers, etc.
-
As in diffs, not drugs (man!).
I'm thinking of putting LSDs front and back on my Tomcat rather than a locker on the back. Has anyone tried this and if so, what sort of results have you had?
Cheers
-
Almost makes you want to move to the States! Almost!!
, varying sizes of spigot too
I liked the Truetrac in the old 90 and reckon that with the auto box it'll be woth having another rear Truetrac.
Green Lanes near Sussex
in Getting out and about
Posted
You should consider joining GLASS as well if you green lane:
www.glass-uk.org
We have many local reps who can advise on routes, pub meets, organised weekends and we're fighting at a government level to retain our rights to drive unsurfaced roads (it's got to be worth it just for that alone!).
Like GB MUD said, there's not a lot left in Sussex apart from a handful of byways and UCRs (although would have to check out my old maps from when I used to lane over that way regularly) and they're probably not suitable for you, well unless you get something you don't mind knocking about a bit!