WesBrooks
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Posts posted by WesBrooks
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Hi all,
Slight issue on a RRC V8 softdash donor that I need to fire up periodically to keep it free! Tried to start it on Sunday. It wet itself. Poured petrol on the drive from hosing around the filters on the chassis rail directly below the filler. Looks as if it already has had the stock fuel lones bypassed on places.
Not looking for a permanent solution here, just something to fire it up on the drive. Is petrol rubber hising and fuel hose clips a complete no-go after the tank pump?
Thanks!
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Got to give it to the marketing team though, cracking theme tune! 😉
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38 minutes ago, lo-fi said:
Not really. Could be more appropriately labelled the Free-ender™.
Meh.
...or Pretender.
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My comment is simply Landrover products have both developed a poor general reputation for reliability and become less suitable for maintenance on your drive or on the field. They are not pandering to what the vast majority on here are after and I sincerely doubt that the private venture mentioned earlier will have a price tag anywhere near what many of us would consider for a toy.Off road capable kits and kit conversions will always be far more interesting to me and increasingly so the more RRCs/P38s, D1/D2, and Defenders become expensive Classic Vehicle territory.
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The characters pictured are the target market, not us. A manufacturer who thinks design for ease of maintenance means lifting the body off for relatively simple tasks is clearly not targeting people who like to run their own vehicles.
The general "We" being discussed here need more decent quality kits and a few builders for those with no time. Landrover seem to be specialising in upselling products whose reliability and general quality don't quite match the price tag. That said their target audience are also on 3 year lease hires, so rust, and 100k+ reliability aren't really their concern.
If environmental issues get studied properly and reported accurately by the media the lease hires will be killed off in favour of running cars into the ground, but that would destroy a lot of business that just bait people into thinking life will be better with this years new model.-
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Just going to drop this here:
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3 hours ago, Jamie_grieve said:
You say the nay saying of independent suspension with no good reason when it's been very eloquently explained to you the main problems with it by others way better than I did in my first post which you didn't respond to.
Likewise you've not responded to my post.
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Engineers ability to optimise roll centre also hampered by the favoured live axle suspension?
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I'd like to be interested by the new defender but I'd have to say I find the Jimny far more interesting although in balance Suzukis historic efforts on achieving well in European crash and saftey tests appear to be lacking.
Anyhow, at the risk of diverting the subject a little the discussion on roll centres teases my interest. Any recomended reads? Detailed suspension setup seems a black art from brief reads and looks around the the pirate 4x4 site.
My understanding is height of the roll centre (RC) is half the story as it is acted on by the centre of gravity (CG) causing the body roll. CG above RC results in more body roll away from corner. Other way around and the body will roll in toward the corner. I thought road cars didn't necessarily aim for low RC, but a low seperation between the RC and CG to avoid lots of body movement through rapid chicanes or changes in direction - at least until aero concerns start to come into play. Is this the same for off roaders? Isn't the high RC more about matching the high CG due to ground clearance and tall body etc? If anything independent suspension could be better at keeping the RC closer to the CG with variable height?
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Thanks for confirming that Geoff. I'll keep an eye out for salvage air spring units.
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I'm in need of units for the Classic. Arnott have stopped making them for the Classic, but OEM still appear to be available.
I think from searches the mounting at the axle end of the air spring differs, but not sure how significantly.
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I'd also double check that the springs are properly on the advance bob weights. Simply pulling up on the rotor arm to remove it was enough to move the shaft causing the springs to ping off making an already ropey engine (not the truck I've just bought from a forum member!) run rougher than 80 grit toilet paper.
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I'd guess te dizzy has been off and replaced with the rotor pointing out of position. The main pulley is marked for TDC. Get the engine to TDC with number ome cylinder on the compression stroke and the rotor will be poimting to the start of the firing order. Either take that as is or lift out the dizzy amd re insert it with the rotor pointing in the right direction, being aware of the rotor rotating a bit as you push it home due to the helical drive gear.
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What are the main differences? Are they interchangable? Presuming the P38 is a heavier vehicle, are the P38 springs likely to result in a harsh ride on a lighter vehicle? ...or will lower air pressure in the bag result in a higher height with a lower spring rate?
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Thanks for both of your input. Plenty to think about and no doubt I'll be active on the forums again shortly after getting the donor if things go ahead as planned!
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I've got a custom loom drafted up and got about 50% of the components already so as long as the EAS and ABS are as modular as I think they are this is definately worth a good go. I was interested in a 2" lift but would be inclined to do it fully with adjustable panhard rod and caster correction to get the full self centring of the steering. Not cheap and may well leave it less settled on motorway runs - which are likely living in Merseyside with friends in Glasgow, family in Oxfordshire, and like to holiday in the Lakes! All that said being a thirsty V8 this won't be a daily driver.
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Great, thanks. I appreciate the benefits of ABS. Think ice and loose gravel are the only times I've struggled with it in my daily, but then again since grip is soo low any way in those situations fully manual brakes would probably leave me worse off anyway!
I had wondered whether to keep the BW or use the LT230 from the D1. I like the self preserving aspect of the centre diff on the BW automatically locking up but from what I've read (mainly on here) they are weaker and less reliable. The ZF box on the RRC 3.9 is liekly to be the same as the D1 unit isn't it? I'd like the 4 bolt mains 4.6, larger torque converter and tougher autobox but the potential of a good donor currently running may be too good to miss and begins to light up the end of a very long tunnel! I'd Just feel bad for breaking a RRC rather than trying to fix it! Long since lost any feelings like that for the original D1 donor as that hadn't been looked after well for many years!
Do you rate the air suspension on the RRCs? I've been on the fence with regards to a lift on the suspension since I got the donor D1 a few years ago now. I probably would have only gone for 2" at most, I think that is within the range of the Arnott Air bags which I think are the preferred options? Come to think of it since my vehicle weight is very different to standard will the spring rates be far too firm at the normal ride heights?
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Thanks for the feedback. Does the ABS play well with larger tire diameters? Not likely to be no more than 33".
Was it just the P38s that had the diffs on the other side or was it everything with a Borg Warner transfer box?
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Can the brake calipers from a non ABS 95 Discovery 1 (along with the rest of the braking system) be used on ABS axles from a 94 RRC? I had originally thought the ABS would be a good thing to have on my project until I saw the price of the ABS components new!
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I think you can drive to the IVA, but understand wanting to get it sorted before and many choose to trailer their builds for fear of a mechanical issue making them miss their ~£500 test.
Driving to is confusing for the local plod though and if you decide to do ot drop them a curtosy note as you'll be legaly driving with no licence plates as your reg number is only asigned post IVA!
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The other problems with the weights is the IVA. There are gotchas something along the line of if it's a two seater and over the 2020kg limit you can't get it through as a dual use and test becomes N1 rather than M1 test.
Suddenly a lot of the external projection amd sharp edge rules go but you are then subject to van/light commercial speed limits on the road.Tomcat motorsport have put some builds through a N1 IVA tests. I look forward to hearing about a not-super-seven or sportscar IVA experience!
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
The linked article certainly gives pause for thought for everyone who's modded their vehicle and/or ever bodged something in a hurry - picture yourself standing in court defending your handiwork having killed someone's kid and ask yourself how confident you'd be arguing your side.
This is where I'm coming from. I'm trying to make sure I understand the common failure modes of the axles/suspension/steering that can lead to a loss of control of the vehicle. I was focusing on the loss of a wheel here because it is now become a particularly interest of the governing bodies and I want to be sure I'm doing my best too ensure I've addressed the commonly known issues.
Issues that are common with standard vehicles deserve care, attention, and a good maintenance plan. I think all of the issues raised to this point other than the spacers and incorrect wheel fitment are common with standard specification vehicles and so are not as much of a factor to consider when choosing modifications unless pushing to extremes.
Judging the safety of your modifications are a difficult subject to grasp. In some cases I've got to say; "company 'Acme' haven't phorbid the use of 'accessory #32' on the road and having fitted it according to their guidance" and so I'm ok, but with a measure of common sense. After all I'm guessing the spacers aren't banned from use on the road.
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6 hours ago, CwazyWabbit said:
I know you weren't particularly interested in loose wheel nuts, just wanted to say that sometimes there is little warning.
No problem. I only intended to make sure the wheel bolts/nuts didn't become the sole fixation of the thread. To be honest I've a better understanding of the issues around alloys and loosening bolts following this thread and am happier with my decision to use steel modulars over alloys.
I've heard of spacers being banned in some territories and didn't fully understand the issues with them, but also weren't considering using them so hadn't needed to understand the issues better. If they are a contributing factor here then I could see them working their way into the list of MOT failure triggers.
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13 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
It seems to be something that's changing, as a kid I never remember seeing any tyre fitter using a torque wrench, but in the 10 years I've been driving myself they've always used a torque wrench for the final torque.
It has been getting better. There was a big fuss around the time I started driving about people needing to call recovery out to change wheels where both the situation and people involved should have been fine changing the wheels. My daily driver (2009 reg Skoda Superb) only needs 120Nm of torque. This is well within the strength of most able bodied people with a good wheel brace. This is unless of course the wheel hasn't been removed for a long time and has corroded in place, but this only really indicates that the car isn't checked over well enough on a regular basis as disks and pads can't really be checked well until the wheels are off.
Temporary Fuel Hosing - After '94 V8 Tank Pump
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted · Edited by WesBrooks
Great, thanks for the confirm. Last thing I wanted to do was get specific parts when I wasn't entirely sure it was going to remain in that layout! To an autofactors before they all shut then! Changing these without getting a petrol shower will be fun! 😄 Got one hose clamp, time for a second I think.