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benbenukuk

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Posts posted by benbenukuk

  1. correct just replace the whole box.

    you would get away with 35s on 3.54s and 1.4 but its hard work and hills will be hard on the vehicle.

    if your doing mostly on road work then 4.1 but assuming you off road it hence the MTs and height then 4.75 for the offroad lower speeds and grunt plus 1.2 if you do alot of road stuff. or just stick with 1.4 and 4.75s it will just rev hard at 70 etc.

    another option underdrive your 3.54s and 1.4 wont help on road hills though.

    Will I notice much of a difference between the 4.1 and the 4.75 if I keep the 1.4 transferbox? Just looked at the price's why is the 4.75 alot dearer? Ben

  2. If its an old rad it may be well silted up internally. Any cold/cool spots on the rad? Flushing MAY get some of it out.

    Replaced mine recently & the weight difference was startling.

    As far as I can tell there isn't any cold/cool spots on the rad but I am going to take it out and give it a good clean inside and out, cheers. Ben

  3. Hmmmm <_<

    Its a yes and no type answer really

    The lower the thermostat then yes the cooler the engine will run,

    BUT think of a radiator in a V8 like its the engines heart

    Popping in a lower thermostat (I think the lowest is a 74 or 72 one Early V8 carb)

    drops the temp of the engine but if the rad is blocked it will soon overheat as the

    cooling system is strangled, and V8s all have a tendancy to reach a heat point where they

    are unable to recover from as the latent heat in the system and the coolant goes past the

    point of no return, its a case then of stopping and letting the engine (hopefully) sort itself out,

    I have even seen race V8 reach this point, when the racer stopped with all the fans on and the bonnet up

    on tickover (switching it off can make the internal temps rise) you could hear the water boiling and it then

    got worse eveyone stood back and the engine literally expoloded as it was unable to reduce the already out

    of control heat build up

    With a blocked rad your on this same slippery slope, you need to have the engine temp under control by some means

    and increase cooling options, this could be fans, cowlings on the rad if you don't have one and holes / vents IN THE RIGHT

    places, and if need a bigger higher flow bigger size / cored radiator or as in my case all of the above, the lower

    thermostat gains only a small amount, and if the temp prob is big, prob nowhere near enough to sort it. Also check your

    antifreeze has the highest mix recomended as this will help drop temps, but don't go mad, you can similarly buy water wetter

    which helps too

    Lastly to keep a V8 cool fans need to come on early and hard so that the heat is kept UNDER control and not "Ooo its too hot"

    shove the fans on - thats too late and takes more time / fans / effort to then get it back under control

    Nige

    At the moment it has the std fan with no cowling, I did get a cowling but it didn't seem to fit so I didn't bother getting another one, Do you think it would benifit from putting twin electric fans on the otherside of the rad and leaving them on all the time? Ben

  4. In theory it could help but if your engine is running too hot, you really need to know why and remedy that!

    Is the rad clean, are the fins clear allowing sufficient air-flow.

    What have you checked so far ?

    What are you using to determine the engine is running too hot ?

    More detail will lead to more help in here and hopefully a solution that's long term...

    Neil

    The rad is clean but the are a couple of slightly damaged fins, I have had it over heat 4 time's in the last year mainly due to a dirty rad, I wanted to fit a different thermostat so that I could rest easy knowing that it wouldn't over heat sitting in traffic, when I go off-road and the rad is blocked up I can drive for 30-45mins going 30-40mph without the temp going over the half way mark then all of a suddon it will shoot up then blow the cap off the header tank which costs £45 a time, I thought that if I get a different thermostat it might help it a bit? cheers. Ben

  5. There is always a point to having the plug in, as without it you will completely submerge the clutch/rear of crank in muddy water... I don't know if V8 rear crank seals are as good as TDi ones, but if they are, you may also end up with water entering the crank case through there...

    Just remove the plug every now and then when not out playing in the mud and the heat from the engine will dry the housing...

    Thanks, I will take it out soon as im finished next time im off-road. Ben

  6. Were you stuck in a deep hole with bumper water level recently? Im assuming you just found muddy water and not actually mud in the housing??? Theres never a perfect seal between the bellhousing and the engine and depending on how often you remove the bung it can build up. When i fit an engine i always put a small bead of silicon sealant on the mating surface and it helps. As regards to cleaning i would leave the bung out and drive it for a while to dry it out, i wouldnt try to flush with water as it may result in muddy water contaminating your clutch and you dont want that. :D:D:D

    I didn't get stuck but I was gunning it some through some deep muddy water, Do you think there is any point in me putting the plug in? cheers. Ben

  7. I always use 20/50 in the V8's, does the oil light go out after you blip the throttle (shouldnt be distance related! :unsure: )?. The 20/50 is a lot thicker and will make the engines top end quieter.

    Yep The oil light goes out when you blip the throttle, Looks like im doing a change of oil then, cheers. Ben

  8. Hi, At the moment I am using 15w/40 in my 1989 range rover classic, I have now read that I should be using 20w/50. When the engine is started there is a tapping and the oil light stays on for 1-2 miles if I use the right oil will this stop and will there be any damage if I carry on using the 15w/40? cheers. Ben

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