tid172

This may help: Swivel pin housing ovehaul Part 12 - the CV joint inspecting & fitting ...:

Thank you to all for your replies. I think I will stick to a 1.4 ratio box and plod along the motorways :-) Has anyone here overhauled a transfer box? I have read, on here??, or elsewhere, that it's not too bad to do, with usual workshop tools (puller etc..), but I'd like to chat to someone about what it's like, what to look out for etc? I have a plan, that I want to get another Lt230 and drop that in the landy. Then overhaul my box, as I think it's just bearings needed and swap the 2nd hand box for my overhauled one.

Now that I seem to have isolated where the problem noise is on my 110, is there anyone here that has changed the 1.4 ratio transfer box to the 1.2 ratio? Can a standard 300 tdi cope with it ok? Does it go some way to improving fuel economy on a long run? Is it too detrimental to the loss of torque for towing or off roading?

Right, front prop is back on, rear off and just driven home. Noise is still there, but quieter now. So I guess that means it's the lt230 transfer box. Also, rear prop is worn out, a uj cup is spinning in the coupling, under the circlip and the sliding joint is worn. I've taken it easy on acceleration / deceleration and gear changes, i'm not getting that massive thump from the back now, with no rear shaft, I guess that means it's the 'A' frame ball joint? So my next questions are: how hard is it to overhaul a lt230? Is a Brit part rear prop ok?

Thanks for the suggestion, what play/evidence did you see from the front prop shaft? Could I drop the rear prop off and put the car in gear, so spin the transfer box and listen for any noises before refitting the front prop? It wouldn't do any damage to the transfer box, operating it with no shafts connected, would it?.

Ok, so I dropped the front prop off during my lunch break at work. Uj's feel fine, nice and smooth with no slop, sliding joint feels ok too. Drove the landy back home and the noise seems to be worse now. It also really emphasises the bang when I take up drive. Think it's the 'A' frame ball joint - another job.. I'll put the front prop back on tomorrow and hopefully take the rear prop off, if there's time. I'll let you know what the result of that is..

I've had my 110 Defender 300tdi for a week now, so far the longest journey was from Bolton back to London - 250 miles. In my old 90 Pre Defender 2.5TD I towed a trailer from Tunbridge Wells to Exeter and back, very long day, especially when the alternator died at Exeter and on the way home the fuel solenoid finally shut between j9-j8 on the M25. Fortunately I had a spare battery, that with some creative wiring, got me home.

Thanks for your suggestions. I'm going to drop the front prop off tomorrow and go for a drive with the diff lock on to see if it's the front prop, then vice versa with the rear prop, if the noise still exists. I'll let you know how I get on.

Hello, I'm new here and have a developing issue with my (new to me) 110 300tdi defender. I have recorded a video today to save me trying to describe a sound, if possible I'd like some advice on what it may be. Linky: The rumble/dry/knock sound can be heard above 20mph , more prominent on over - run. Seems to be road speed related. Not engine or gearbox. I have tried driving in low range and I think I can hear the noise still, but engine is quite loud so it's difficult to hear, in low range there is a buzzing/high pitched noise at 15mph+ I have checked oil levels in transfer box and both final drive/diffs. I have checked and greased both props. The rear prop has some play in the sliding joint, the rear uj spider appears to be a maintenance free type with no grease nipple. However, the uj appears to have no appreciable movement. Has anyone else had a similar noise from their transfer box/props/final drives? Any advice greatly appreciated.