lrnewbie
-
Posts
53 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by lrnewbie
-
-
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...amp;hl=Polybush
I bought, I removed / Bined
You read / You decide
Nige
Interesting to note, however I'm not going to be doing any off roading other than getting into the odd green lane/field for camping so maybe it won't get as stressed..... One question; I'm looking out for an hydraulic press in general but want one that can get the old bushes off and possibly oem rubber ones back on (given yours, and a number of people's reservations on poly), will a 4.5 ton press with 1m space between press and table do the job? I have no idea at the moment what is involved with changing the bushes as in whether you take whole arms out, how long they are etc. I'll be researching more on the web but have yet to come across the definitive guide for changing ALL bushes for my K reg 200tdi Discovery.
Thanks,
Sunny
-
Well that post is almost 4 years old........
prices do go up you know.......
Bah, still seems a bit dear when britpart specials are in the £60ish region, really worth the extra money do you think?
-
i have always run std and pretty much swear by them, they last, absorob bumpers and keep things tight when no worn out.
however for offroading i am 'trialling' some blue polybush (£100 + VAT) i paid, so far they are good although i have done about 2k on them. they are soft enough to flex allowing articulation etc but firm enough for holding the road. i think red could be too hard for atriculation plus i beleive whilst htey improve road handling they transmit alot of the bumps to the chassis etc.
I've been searching everywhere for the polybush blues, just want it for the family discovery to get back the "factory fresh" feel not for serious off roading. Where can I get them for £100 +VAT, I've seen em for about £150 inclusive?
-
Brilliant guys, thanks for the tips, plenty for me to look up. I might go out on a limb and take the fan out as a single job, see how it fares, especially now that the weather's getting colder. Then look at fitting the kenlowe at a later date when the weather gets better.
I've also heard that the Disco temp guage is set to record hotter than it actually is so it rings true when people say they rarely get hot.
I'll update the thread, maybe with some piccies for fellow novices like myself when i get round to the job
-
First you need to install the Kenlowe thermostat in the bin and get an X-Switch so that it stands a chance of working after you've been through a puddle.
If it comes with those horrid through-the-radiator cable-tie style fittings, ditch those as well.
Sorry, a bit of a novice in these things....so you're suggesting I chuck the supplied thermostat and use an "X-switch", where do I get one of those? Also, if i don't use cable ties what would u suggest i use instead?
Thanks.
-
Hi all,
I've bought a Kenlow fan for my Discovery 200TDI. Any tips on how to make the job go as smoothly as? Piccies would be even better....
Thanks in advance for any advice.
-
this has got to be the fidliest job i have ever done.
nearly finished it and on of the connector rods fell of and wedged itself in the lock
so took it all apart and after 4 hours of cleaning and putting it all back i finally finished
no wonder the garage did not want to do the job
glad its over
Big John
Epic job! Well done for sticking it through though. Bit different to struggling under the car with impossibly corroded bolts etc. but very taxing in a cerebral kinda way! I had a few scary moments putting my tailgate lock back together when I just couldn't remember how it worked but got through in the end. I now have to change the spring in my nearside front door which apparently entails taking out the glass which i'm not looking forward to.
Getting the parts from a dealer though...surely you could have got the part 2nd hand somewhere? I find Ebay a very useful resource and Discovery I's are always being broken on Ebay.
-
I am assuming yours has the same steering column setup as the '95 facelift, but this may help you.
The was a problem of "Steering Gaiter Squeak" (1/11/95 LR Bulletin 57/04/95 EN) that was caused by the column rubbing against the inside of the firewall rubber grommet.
But this only mentions Prefixes LH & LJ & is very noticeable around the drivers feet.
If it is this, it's a fairly easy permanent fix but requires more than a quick blast of WD40.
I'll have another listen but I'm almost positive it's coming from the bonnet directly from the belt. I'll try tightening belts first and take it from there.
Thanks.
-
Yep MOT failure, from the structure of the vehicle they don't make it dangerous but, the MOT testers have a guide to follow and have to fail it.
Interesting because my friend had a rusty old Rover 4, 100, loads of rust and holes in the sill and an apprentice at a garage tried to fail it once. But my friend pointed out it was a moncoque chassis and the garage gaffer confirmed it, and the the car sailed through MOT. Perhaps if you take it to the right MOT centre with the right experience to think out of the box you could pass it, legally.
-
it was a new lock i fitted -
the central locking does work -
when the key is in the barrel there is no resitance when turning the key -
this the same with central locking on or off.
suppose the strip down is on the cards - oh B!"£!ks.
In which case it is the barrel of the external lock which is at fault and yes, as far as i know you have to take out the new lock you put in to get to the barrel behind it. I did mine recently but my problem was the barrel was seized, wouldn't turn at all. Tried WD40 from the front but nothing happened, had to change the spring anyway so stripped whole lock and barrel, sprayed the barrel direct with WD40 and now it works fine. Can't remember how the barrel interacts with lock but basically I'd agree you're gonna have to strip it down again at least partially to get at the problem.
-
I've had the same on my 200TDI...
The belts need to be tightened up. Really tight.
Makes sense, so new belts, run in, stretched a bit, need tightening. I'll give it a go and report back. TYVM
-
I've got a 200tdi with rusty sills that I want to replace in the fullness of time anyway. But I just wanted to be clear; are rotten sills an MOT failure or not for a Disco? I assumed that the Disco was not a mono wotsit and therefore didn't not rely on it's sills for mechanical strength and subsequently wouldn't be an MOT failure. But I've seen threads talking about having to fix their sills for the MOT.
Can anyone shed any light on this?
-
Hi all,
I have a K reg 200tdi Disco, manual. When I bought it about 2 months ago I noticed when test driving the steering squeeled slightly when dry steering or at low speed under load, but it wasn't very loud, didn't happen much and I wanted to buy it anyway! Since then the squeeling has gotten worse, particularly when manouvering striaght after start up. I've tried squirting a bit of WD40 on the belts, which helped a bit but not for long. All the belts were changed by the dealer before he sold it, I had a load of old belts slung in the back of the car.
Any ideas of what this could mean and how to stop the noise? Not an indication that the power steering is going I hope!
-
A good 300Tdi Discovery will be a reliable truck, a bad one will carry on swallowing money until you can't take any more.
Buy on condition not necessarily age or mileage!
And full service history if you can!
-
I recently changed the lock mechanism and solenoid on the back door.
Everything was working ok for a few weeksm central locking - child locks etc.
I have noticed that now the key no longer locks or unlocks the back door and yet it did.
Any ideas before I strip the whole thing down again.
Was the lock mechanism brand new or was it 2nd hand? If it was 2nd hand the spring may have broken and you would have to strip it down again. From your note I'm not sure if you mean the key doesn't work specifically in the back door keyhole or whether it doesn't work with the central locking. If the spring is gone u would be able to feel the lack of tension when you manually lift and press the back door lock. You would also still hear the solenoid trying to do it's job behind the panel.
Sorry, just saw the picture which i couldn't download before. Clearly a new unit but looking to the right of the picture/lock looks like the spring could be hanging loose. Perhaps it was dislodged slightly when you installed it and has pinged off after a week's use? A bit of a long shot but you should be able to see if the spring's in the right place or not without taking the whole lock out. However if it dislodged u will have to take it out as previously said.
-
In that case i'll re-phrase it, 'MY' K reg 200tdi does NOT have either axle or chassis mounts for arbs......
Mine's a 93 K reg., was there a 92 K reg and if so maybe that's the difference and later K reg. vehicles had em fitted. It'll be a couple of weeks but I'll get under there, have a butchers and update the thread.
-
Hi,
First thing first, if you are not going to do anything tuff going in this car then replace bushes with OEM parts. YOu would not notice the difference if you swapped to Polybush. The anti roll bars (ARB) would make the biggest difference to you. They will stop the excessive body roll you get going round corners. It won't by any means eliminate this roll but will reduce. Make sure you have the connections on your axles as well as the body. I think you can get the items to retro fit them to non compatible axles???
If you have a large family and really load the car up when taking camping trips and this is a regular thing, then I would recommend upgrading the rear springs to heavy duty ones. This would stop the rear sagging and also add to the stability along with the ARB's. Shock absorbers are really down to a matter of opinion. I would recommend you change from oil to gas shocks if it isn't already. I wouldn't bother with a lift kit as you are probably going to keep the standard wheels and tyres on there. This would only add to the stabiity issue anyway. If you are going to greenlane on a regular basis then get some good AT tyres as road tyres wouldn't get you far if it was a bit damp.
I hope this helps a bit.
Regards
Dave
Cheers for the advice, like you said I'm not going to be off roading in any serious way so lifting the suspension isn't what I'm aiming for. I've seen various brands of gas shocks kicking about, Monroes seem reasonably priced, are they any good? I'm assuming that I probably won't notice the difference between cheap and expensive gas shocks with my planned use. There's a 2nd hand front and rear anti roll bar set from a RRC on Ebay (see piccie). It looks like it has the fitting brackets as well. Should this fit on to my 1993 Disco? Also, not sure what I'm looking for in terms of my axle, or even body for that matter, should there be square brackets underneath + bolt holes? If there aren't any fittings is it a matter of drilling the appropriate holes and welding brackets?
Thanks again
-
Cheers again, I'll have a go this weekend and update the thread on my efforts.
For anyone following this thread; I had a go at the tailgate door on Sunday with great results. It actually turned out to be the spring which I'd ordered from Ebay. I bought a whole set of 5 for about £15 I think as I thought it'd be useful to have them at the ready and I still have the front door to do.
What may have confused the symptons was somebody had put an elastic band on the door locking nib (my name for it) so that it always stayed up, explaining why it dipped with the central locking but sprang straight up again. They obviously did this so that they could always open the back door without using their key. Without the elastic the door would have always stayed locked and could only be manually opened with a key or by holding the nib up as the spring was broken.
A fiddly job but I had the official Land Rover manual which helped immensely, a few breath holding moments putting it all back together but after a bit of head scratching everything now works perfectly. Also solved the seized key barrel; originally sprayed loads of WD40 from the outside with no joy; but pulled the whole handle out, sprayed WD40 from the back of the key barrel and worked perfectly after a minute of soaking.
Will try the front door in the next couple of weeks and report back.
-
I’m that Soul!
I am about to get a 4x4 having moved house to a farm down a bumpy track in a place that gets snowed on, and is muddy pretty much all the rest of the time.
We are a family of 4 plus large dog. And the car needs to look presentable enough to ferry customers about. (We run a letting agency). On the weekend I will be hauling building materials; and maybe once a month will be going 500m on motorways.
Our budget is about £4K
At the moment I’m being advised to get a LWB Shogun or Grand Cherokee; both seem good but a bit “flash” for my tastes; I always wanted a Disco but was put off by reliability niggles. (I’m flat out renovating the farm and can’t spare tinkling time really).
I know a lot a farmers run Discos and we are more likely to find a local mechanic with Disco knowledge so I’m more inclined to get one now, but I’m confused as to what to look out for.
I know the Disco electrics can be troublesome, and that the floor-pan in the back is a potential weak point, -is there any other well known things to check please?
I was going to aim for a V8 LPG with leather; -is this model you’d go for too?
Thanks for any help, I’ve learnt a fair bit trawling already but can always know more.
Cheers
GC
I'm no expert but like you i did a lot of research. Although you read that V8's are reliable there's also a fair amount of comments about cracked cylinder heads/cases. It seems to me that fuel consumption (unless u have lpg) and the fact that if it does go wrong it's that bit more complex being a V8 make it less practical than the 200/300tdi (some ppl say 200tdi is best land rover engine ever). Also servicing costs are higher I think with ignition leads, dissy caps etc. Then u've got better reliability in the wet in case u have to ford any floody bits being on a farm. I have a feeling a number of v8 fans will jump down my throat for this! I chose 200tdi both because of my budget but also I like tinkering and the 200tdi is very basic with no electronic bits.
Only thing to keep in mind is that the 200/300tdi is a bit of a tractor compared to more modern diesels, not a problem for me but u may think differently. Other rust problems i've heard on discos are the sils, check behind the plastic trim and check both inside and out (mine has holes in, as it's not a monochoque i don't think it's and MOT failure but happy to be corrected). Also when you open the passenger doors, where the wheel arch meets the pillar is common, inner wings, corrosion around the doors. Apparently rust is the discos worst failing. electric gremlins are common, my central locking is possessed. Again, 200tdi's are less complex but with your budget you'll be aiming higher. One thing I would say though is if £4k is your absolute limit go at least £500 less, u'll need a cushion to get it up to the level you need as you would with any 2nd hand car. I did see some good 300tdi's for the 3.5k mark.
In short there is loads that can go wrong but the amount of parts (cheap too), advice and enthusiasts around don't make it difficult to deal with. Also I think the disco is much better looking than any Japanese model and better than the Cherokee. Be patient and wiat for one with extensive if not full service history, that will offer a lot more comfort.
-
Yes, door locking actuator as Land Rover call them, the servo bit is inside. Inside there is an electric motor that revolves one way to lock and the other way to unlock hence moving the operating rod in or out.
If it's the servo motor pushing the button up (u can hear it clonk as if unlocking) then it may just require a adjustment of the actuator undo the mounting screws and move the the actuator only a fraction and try the locking button again.
I don't think have a major problem, is simple as I have recently found out Ihad something similar with my back door, then I took the actuator apart and re-greased the cogs in side but I had to re-sync and adjust when installing the unit back into the door
Something in the system or controller dosen't allow only one door to lock.
Cheers again, I'll have a go this weekend and update the thread on my efforts.
-
He's probably decided what car to go for by now as this topic was a year ago!
Well spotted! But you never know, some other indecisive poor soul may find direction in our ramblings....
-
Hi Irnewbie
1. Your right it's the spring that's the symptions
2. Sounds like the servo is out of sync and is trying to unlock the door while u are telling it to lock. So u must get access to the survo unplug it and then slowly push the operating rod in the opposite direction to what it is, and then reconnect the plug.
And the lock must be like mine as I can only get the key in 3/4 of the way. Why bother u won't use it when the CL is functioning correctly.
3. Yes it is. Drivers door is the main the other four are slaves.
Thanks for the answers, I 'll order a spring from Ebay:
2. When you refer to the servo is that the same as the door actuator? Also, if it's out of sync would that mean that when I press the fob to release the doors it would actually lock it? Or does it not work like that? I was wondering, because it kept springing back up and wouldn't stay down manually I wondered if it was something mechanical, the spring again?
-
1, 3. That's interesting, because you are supposed to control central locking via front left door lock. When you lock it with a key or manually other doors should be also locked.
I flicked through the workshop manual this morning and I'm sure it said the driver's door would control the central locking, both by using the key and also manually pushing down the lock. I'll double check that, also I haven't tested pushing the lock down manually from the inside.
-
@FridgeFreezer
You say Disco's are not the most reliable cars in the world and I have read a lot about people complaining about their reliability... How bad are they? I can't afford to have mine off the road if it keeps on breaking down and would have to look elsewhere. It is going to be my main car to and from work.
But if these reports are just the unhappy people and the ones who are delighted just keep quiet, (no news in Good news) then it isn't so bad.
What are peoples general thoughts here? Are Disco's good solid workhorses or are they lame pit ponies? Think the response will be a bit biased from a land Rover forum but at least honest.
thanks.
/Mad
I have just bought a 15yr old Discovery 200tdi as my first Land Rover and it's a family car. I've already got a longish list of things I need to do to it, nothing major but enough to keep my busy. My previous car was a P reg Citroen Xantia estate which I bought for £1,100 and have spent approximately £1,700 over 2yrs before buying the Discovery. At the time my time was more precious than money and I got most of the work done in a garage but did the last job myself, changing a blown radiator. At the end of it I looked at the car and thought "I don't like this car, it's just transport but I'm spending loads of money and time keeping it on the road". Got rid of it and got a car I've always liked, I don't think the Discovery will be any cheaper to maintain but when I've fixed it I'll enjoy driving and owning it. With our budgets you're always going to have a car that needs work so get one you actually like to sweeten the repair bills :-)
Regarding the 2 back seats in the 7 seater; I've put my kids in them before but you can't really use the boosters as they're too high and they end up leaning back on the window. Boosters are to stop 3 point seatbelts strangling small children in an emergency stop. Lap belts don't go over the shoulder so they wouldn't work anyway. Does anyone know the definitive law about this? I suspect that it's all probably too unsafe for children and you can't use them full stop?
Polybush - Views Please....
in International Forum
Posted
OMG that's pretty heavy duty, pity, there's a 4.5 ton press going fairly near me that would have done nicely otherwise. Is the metre height enough space at least and would 4.5 tons just grind to a halt or would it just do it more slowly?
Thanks.