lrnewbie

Hi all, I know it's an old thread but I'm in the middle of doing a camshaft change myself. Can anyone tell me how you can move the condenser without disconnecting the pipes and releasing the refrigerant? Is it simply 2 bolts off then lift or lower the condenser with high pressure input and output pipes (top left hand side of condenser as you look at the bonnet from the front) still connected? I haven't tried yet but it looks rather stiff to me and I really don't fancy trying to release the gas and undo the pipes. Also, I assume I have to take off the front grill to get at it? Can anyone whose done this before please advise, bit of an SOS as I'm doing the top end as well so everything in bits with a deadline to finish for Monday! Thanks in advance for anyone that can help.

Apologies in advance if I'm taking liberties in the wrong section but I have a mini emergency. I've taken apart my Discovery TD5 to change the clutch and flywheel only to find it has the slimmer single mass solid flywheel and the bolts aren't long enough for the new dual mass I have. Is there anyone out there who has spare full length flywheel bolts that I could use within a 50 mile radius of Medway Kent? It's my only car and I've taken time off work on Monday to finish it but could be in trouble if I don't get hold of the bolts tomorrow which of course, is a Sunday... Or a supplier that would have them and be open on a Sunday... Thanking anyone who responds in advance...

Good news, changed the pump and everything works fine. In fact the PAS is lighter than it was before so perhaps it was failing slowly before going completely kaput. I'm glad it wasn't the steering box as the pump was fairly straight forward and finished by lunchtime. Thanks again for the advice

You were quite right Old Hand, on closer inspection the copper in the wires were undamaged. I just spent a tedious few hours on my back pulling apart the melted sheaths and wrapping them separately in insulation tape. Changed the burnt relays and turned the ignition, everything works fine :-) Thanks very much for the advice, got on to the real business at hand of welding in the inner wing and it all looks better than it did before.

Thanks all for the advice. I lubed the UJ's which did look rusty and tensioned the belt (which is only 1.5yrs old and looked fined) just to eliminate it but neither made any difference. Then I bled the system. And that's when it got interesting; I bled it about 15 times, hard lock left, then right, then central and bled for about 10/15 secs before the oil flowed smoothly. Then I 'd do it again and again and again. Steering got easier but by no means normal. Oh, and strangely the fluid level went up at one point which gave me false hope thinking there was just a mother of an air lock in there but 10 bleeds later still no joy. Rang the local Landy parts supplier and they reckon it's the pump rather than the steering box because there should have been (if the pump was working) a strong jet of oil coming from the bleed screw which sometimes hits the bonnet. Whereas mine just dribbled out. I bought the pump (£170 ouch) and will fit it tomorrow. For that price I hope I've found the right solution. I'll post back the results so anyone with the same symptons will know the solution. Thanks again guys. Sunny

Hello all, I own a K reg. 200tdi Discovery which, surprise surprise, I've done lots of welding and changing of windows, door lock springs, dampers etc. etc...... A much loved family vehicle that I maintain for my wife. She turned a corner today and as she straightened up and pulled up to the house (thankfully) the steering went dead, she didn't feel or hear anything in terms of a sudden snap or clonk, it just went dead. I've had a quick look at it in the dark and will look again tomorrow morning before work but I'm pressed for time and need it back on the road asap as it's the family car, not a plaything. I've checked the following; 1. Fluid level; full. 2. Power steering pump belt; not broken and didn't look like it was slipping but will check tension tomorrow Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? And give me an idea of what I need to check? About a month ago the ignition barrel seized up and I had to replace it. In doing so I dry steered the wheels to move the steering wheel for access. When I'd finished the barrel I noticed PAS fluid all over the ground, it appeared to have burst out of the steering box, I topped it up again and it was fine...until now. However, as there's no loss in fluid I'm thinking it's not anything to do with it but thought I'd mention it. Help me please! I need to order what I need tomorrow and hopefully fix it over the weekend or the family's gonna be stranded next week. Thanking you in advance. Sunny

Anyone any ideas out there? I've added these pictures of what appear to be relays, 3 yellow connectors, 1 white and a red one. Is this all a standard part of the loom, I think the red one might be something to do with the air con?

Hi all, I've owned a Disco 200tdi for just over a year now and am working my way through the usual suspects to keep it going i.e. replacing windows/rotten sliders, welding sills, replacing the suspension etc. To cut a long story short; some idiot knocked the wing and bumper effectively writing it off. It's too good to scrap so I'm fixing it myself with some paid help on spraying a new wing. With the damaged wing off I saw some welding to the inner sills that needed doing. Got going with it but being a welding novice (my 2nd time trying) I managed to set some of the electric wiring loom alight! Absolutely gutted, this is a family car not a hobby and I need it back on the road asap before I settle with the insurance comp and they take my courtesy car away! The damage is in the driver's foot well to the right behind the plastic cover. My wife took some piccies that I've attached but not sure it's clear. Doesn't look like any copper in the wires are completely melted but the insulation definitely is and there's clearly a load of short circuits. I see my options as follows: 1. Trace every wire to a point where it wasn't burnt and splice/solder in unburnt wire one by one: Not only tedious but there are some badly burnt connections: 4 white plugs and a big red one that probably need replacing, they look like they're fixed to the bodywork. I'm assuming I'll have to take the dash off to double check the loom where I can't see it. 2. Buy a loom from another Disco and do the above, splicing in healthy wires at an appropriate point but in theory I suppose it will be quicker as I won't have to be so meticulous in tracing the burnt wire? 3. Get an autoelectrician in: not really an option as I assume it's too expensive for the value of the car A mate of mine breaks disco's to keep his 4X4 hobby going and has offered for me to go down to his yard and pull out a loom from an old 3 door 200tdi he's breaking. Great opportunity as I can practice taking the dash off to get the loom and in theory just replace like for like....or can I? I have a 4 door 1993 Disco with air con, remote vol control, 4 elec windows. Will the loom be the same or will I still have to check it carefully, even alter it to be the same? Should I just get a loom from a vehicle closer in age, 4 door etc. or is it all the same loom? Thanks in advance to anyone who can advise. I'm awful at autoelectris btw so idiots guide in doing this would be appreciated.

Might be the case but they're definitely on different relays, my dash blinkers don't work but the audible click does. Which is making me think I could get away with it in theory but I've ordered the part so will change it anyway.

Ah, better add it to my list of things to do before the 18th then...

Great, thanks for the simple and quick response, got a quote of £17 from Paddocks so not the end of the world + I have small children with more nimble fingers than me so maybe access won't be so bad.....better remember to disconnect the battery first Just out of curiosity does it constitute an MOT failure?

Hi all, I have a K reg. Disco 200tdi and have owned it for approximately a year. It came with a year's MOT but for as long as I can remember it's had a problem with dashboard indicator lights. All indicators work correctly, also the tow bar electrics work fine and the trailer lights come on as they should. However, the dashboard acts very erratically, it varies as follows when using the indicators: 1. Sometimes the trailer light comes on whether the trailers attached or not 2. Very rarely the actual indicator light comes on. 3. Mostly nothing comes on at all. I loathe auto electrics and really have no idea where to start. I'm assuming it's not a fuse problem as the lights have come on before. I would have a go at guessing there's an earthing problem because of the on/off symptons but that's as much as I can work out by myself. Any ideas? Most importantly I've got an MOT coming up, would it be an MOT failure? Thanks in advance for any responses.

In which case why not just go OEM rather than genuine? Big difference in price, but same performance....right? And are there different levels of quality in OEM, i.e. oem from paddocks bad, but maybe okay from rimmerbros? Or is the minimum standard the same as genuine by default? Sorry for the silly questions but I really want to make sure I'm not spending money unneccessarily....

Thanks for the tip, I tried the website, loads of parts and looks like it has anything you could possibly want but not much different in price in terms of the springs at least from Rimmerbros.

I'd go with that, my local independent LR dealer can get the genuine springs in about £30 cheaper and of course I save more money on delivery. Earlier someone in the thread mentioned a local LR dealer was the best bet and it would appear so. Interesting that there's a difference between OEM and pattern, obvious I'm sure to everyone else! So in theory OEM is made to the same specification, materials etc. as LR genuine but just minus the label? Whereas pattern is literally a copy but not from the original factory? Is that correct?