Simon119
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Posts posted by Simon119
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When I did this to mine I used bolts, however i drilled and tapped the holes on the side that sits against the door. I then bolted the two halves together and ground off the excess bolt leaving a flat surface.
It only has a couple of threads of engagement but it only has to hold the two halves together until it is bolted up to the door.
Mine has been like it for years and hasn't caused any problems yet.
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Could you cut some shallow channels in the ball to allow grease to flow.
Would obviously need to stone or similar the ball after to ensure there were no burrs.
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Like Dave said, truss or pipe clamps are a available in a multitude of sizes and weight loadings.
CPC have a selection, link below
If you want the best then you want Doughty, link below
http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/138/129/index.htm
I have a few 30mm wide ones at work for 50mm tubing I can do without for a couple of weeks if you want me to send you a couple in the post to have a look at, they are only light and will fit in a jiffy back so won't cost a fortune to post. Or if you or anyone you know is in the Stansted Airport area in the near future your welcome to come and pick them up.
Cheers
Simon
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http://www.springfixlinkages.com/en/catalog/metric-linkages/clevis-pins-clips/safety-fasteners/r3440
Are these the fasteners you were looking for?
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We use a company called Verve Display in Harlow for large format printing and stage graphics etc, LINK
Have never used them for vehicle graphics but I know they do do them. I'll dig out the contact details of our contact there when I'm back in the office tomorrow and get them to you if you want.
Simon
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Are the holes in the two new ones small enough to allow you to drill out and tap to m10??
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These guys are down the road from my work, they have a sign outside currently saying lorry bodies for sale. Don't know if they have anything that might be of use to you, but you don't know if you don't ask.
HTH
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The lights I used are in the link below
I think retail is about £15 +vat each. I have also used front and side marker lights from the same range. I don't know how this compares price wise to the ebay special units, The MD of the company is a fellow scout leader so a deal was done.
They haven't been on there long but only time will tell how they hold up. As to whether a descent filament unit will work as well and be maintenance free I couldn't say, but for what I paid LED units were a no brainer.
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Thank you gents.
Hadn't thought of using a bulb as a resistor. If I go down the resistor route does anyone know what rating and resistance I will need?? Am guessing it's the same as the resistance through a bulb if I measure that with the meter??
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Evening all, am hoping the collective brains of the forum can help.
I have just changed the lights on my local scout group trailer to led units, the lights work perfectly but the dash tell-tale no longer flashes. Am assuming this is a resistance problem, like when fitting led indicators to vehicle.
Can anyone confirm this is the case? And if so any help on fixing the issue would be great. Am thinking either a different flasher relay if one even exists for this application, or adding a resistor to each side of the trailer.
If it makes any difference the vehicle still has filament indicators and I have no plans to change to led anytime soon.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Simon
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As per the title, I am buying Lewis's old MIG welder off him and was wondering if anyone was planning on going anywhere near Uttoxeter, Staffordshire and towards Stansted airport, Essex or anywhere in between in the next few weeks??
Any possible help greatly appreciated.
Simon
p.s. Mods if you feel this is in the wrong section please move accordingly.
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Green bob, where abouts are you?
Can't see on mobile site before everyone says look at his signature.
Might know of some take off 7.50's with plenty of tread left near Stansted if your interested.
Cheers
Simon
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I used one of these in my old landy, http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/audio-accessories/din-mounting-tray.html
Not as neat as the original 300tdi era moldings but a £7 it did it's job. I also preferred having the display of the head unit at an angle, was much easier to read. Unlike my current one which is mounted with the display vertical in a Mud center console.
HTH
Simon
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something like this small enough??
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/analogue-positive-pressure-gauges/4359615/
would just require the right adapter to whatever size push fit connector you need
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Hopefully the link below will take you to my gallery where I have uploaded the pics.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=gallery&album=1472
Any questions feel free to ask. I'm up near Ware so not too far if you do want to come and have a look.
Simon
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I made my own single pivot wheel carrier. Mounted on the cross member only, used a turned down hub as the pivot. Depending on where in Herts you are, your more than welcome to come and have a look at it for some inspiration.
Will try and remember to take some pics if I remember.
Simon
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I'll take a set
Simon
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How soon do you need them. I'm fairly sure I have some at home that I can post if you can wait to early next week for them?
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Thank you very much gents. Much appreciated.
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Morning All
Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number for both the male and female OBD II connectors, as found on a TD5 90??
I need to make an extension cable for mine and the pre-made ones you can buy won't work as I need it to pass through a grommet.
Any help would be much appreciated
Cheers
Simon
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I will be in wythall, just south of Birmingham, Monday evening and Tuesday if you can get them that far south
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Search for Keder Rail in google.
HTH
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Yep that would be a useful measurement wouldn't it! It's 12" from the near side edge of the tub floor to the edge of the cut out. And i haven't noticed any difference in the floor since cutting the brace, with the hatch back in you wouldn't know any difference.
Essex
in International Forum
Posted
Wickford is just the other side of Chelmsford from me. Pm me if I can be of any help