Simon119
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Posts posted by Simon119
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Has your dad had it plugged into a computer recently??
When I got my TD5 it didn't have any fobs with it, unlocked door with key, put key in ignition and off I went. I got a couple of fobs for it as I wanted to use the alarm, immobiliser, central locking etc. and now as you say I have to turn the immobiliser off every time I want to start it regardless of weather I set the alarm of not.
My point is that it must be possible to turn the alarm and immobiliser off if you want, like mine was when I got it. So am wondering if your dad has had it plugged into a computer and the operator had inadvertently activated the immobiliser??
This is of coarse assuming that the 300tdi used the same 10as module as the TD5.
Hope this makes sense but it is first thing Monday morning!!
Simon
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What about something like in the hopefully attached picture. Basically a small shelf on the end of the draw. Would allow a cooker to be mounted to the rear door or could be used as a dumping ground/work bench but with the advantage of sliding out with the the drawer so wouldn't need tidying before the draw could be opened.
cheers
Simon
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I made a roof light bar for mine, if you want pics then pm me our email address and i'll send some over.
Simon
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It is possible to use the existing alarm fob. But as has already been said the Spal kit needs a negative pulse to activate the solenoids and the Land Rover 10as box kicks out a posetive pulse. This is easy enough to change with a coulpe of relays though.
Let me know if you want a wiring diagram of what i did to get mine working with the factory fit alarm!!
HTH
Simon
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might have a backplate in the workshop, will check when i'm back at home. Your welcome to it for the price of postage if it helps
Simon
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Cheers All
Looks like i've got the first job on my landy for 2011 sorted already!!
Thanks again
Simon
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Morning All
Am hoping someone will be able to help. I need to replace both ends of my seatbox as they have corroded through at the back there it bolts to the rear tub.
I know i can get the replacement parts from YRM but my problem is the inability to weld. So was wondering if it was possible to rivit the two bits together. Would use the new section as a template to mark seat box, cut the corroded end off, then use a 2" wide bit of ally bonded and rivited across the underside of the joint.
Anyone with any thoughts, good or bad, please let me know
Cheers
Simon
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Hi
I have a MM overlay with all the Byways in that area highlighted. I have no idea if any of them have restrictions on them or anything like that. I have just highlighted every byway on the map, you would have to check the legalities of using the lanes yourself if that makes sense.
If the overlay is of any use PM me your email address and i'll send it to you
HTH
Simon
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Sorry to hijack this thread, but can you remember what size hole you had to cut for the ECU multi plug rubber seal.
Have been thinking about doing this for a while now but keep forgetting to measure the hole. Also did you relocate the fuse box from under the drivers seat? If so, do those cables reach or do they all need extending??
Cheers
Simon
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One other thought, one of my mates had a prop uj so badly worn it would lock up when trying to reverse. Are the uj's in your rear prop ok??
Just a thought
HTH
Simon
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I brought a universal fit heated seat cover last winter, sililar to the one in the link. Works a treat, i have got seat covers though so it is between seat and cover. Not sure how well it would stay in place without the seat cover.
HTH
Simon
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One scarily expensive Land Rover Timer Relay. I haven't bothered with this relay on mine, have just used a push to make switch so i have to hold the switch for it to work. Means i can't switch it on and leave it on by mistake, also saved me £60
HTH
Simon
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Did you de-imobilise it again when you got back in it. I know mine imobilises itself after about 10 seconds of taking the key ourt of the ignition, even if you don't lock it or anything like that.
Just a thought
Simon
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Might sound strange but try bicarbonate of soda mixed with warm water in them. SWMBO uses it to clean some vases she's got that have a narrow neck, couple of teaspoons of Bicarb and some warm water swirl it around and they look good as new.
Don't know how it works but it does, weather the bicarb acts like a very fine abrasive or not i don't know but it has never scratched any of the vases but gets them shiny every time.
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Assuming you have the same fob as me, lucas 17TN, you need to follow the instructions in point 6 of the first section of the link. Standing near the vehicle, keep pressing the lock button until the indicators flash, then press the unlock button once. Should then work, well did when i changed the batts in my fob.
If you've already done this then i've no idea, sorry
HTH
Simon
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I had to do this a month or so back. The ball joint was so rusty i couldn't even get the bottom plate out when it was in-situ. Spent the next 4 hours trying to remove the drop arm, utilising all techniques mentioned on here, even borrowed the hydraulic puller from fork lift people next door but it wouldn't budge. Ended up having to cut it off and replace the whole thing.
New drop arm complete with ball was only about £30. If you need you landy on monday for work i'd seriously consider buying a drop arm just in case. Hopefully you'll be able to replace the ball joint and return the drop arm. If i was to do it again i'd get a spare just in case.
HTH
Simon
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Ruuman your a star.
Thank you
Simon
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Morning All
Am hoping one of you will be able to help. I can't for the life of me find the .dbf file to download from the wetroads website. I've got the converter and have got that installed no problems i just can't find the file i need to convert.
I've just registered on the wetroads forum to see if that makes any difference. I've also tried all the links above to the pre converted files but i keep getting an error message saying server not found.
Don't know if it makes any difference to the wetroads site or not but am running firefox.
Any help greatly appreciated
Simon
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Could you use a 10mm drill bit through the drive flange just to start the hole you need to drill (just the very tip of the drill needs to make a hole). This would show you where the centre of the bolt is. then you can drill up to 8.5mm before tapping.
Hope this makes sense.
Simon
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Nice one Steve
Will be searching for that wire this evening!!
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Would this work on a TD5 as the range on my fob is also C*#P!!
If so are the wire colours the same
Cheers
Simon
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These guys should be able to help
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Guy on this forum selling cable, might be able to help
Moving Winch Bumper mounting holes, Help needed
in International Forum
Posted
Morning All
Am hoping someone will be able to help, I am using the centre section from an old A/C winch bumper to make a new bumper. However I don't have A/C on my 90 and want to move the bumper back as far as possible, so, I am hoping one of you good people with and winch bumper that has the winch tucked right back up against the rad will be able to take a couple of measurements for me.
Hopefully there is a pic attached to this post, imagine if you will the blue holes are the winch mounting holes (in this case for a TDS 9.5i winch), and the red holes are the bumper to chassis mounting holes. At the moment if I draw a straight line through each set of hole centres, the lines are about 50mm apart. what I would like to know is what the distance between the two lines is on a close fitting bumper. Are the lines on top of each other or are the bumper to chassis holes between the front and back winch mounting holes??
Any help would be greatly appreciated, oh and my landy isn't in the same location as my new bumper so I can't use the trial and error method, hence asking on here.
Cheers
Simon
P.S. Mods if this is deemed to be the wrong section for the topic please move it to the right one!!