motom

Did you ever find out what caused the oil? I have oil in the same area and I wondering if its oil from the vaacum pump entering the alternator and spraying the area under the inlet manifold and behind. Alternator still works :-)

I believe Land Rover sells a "police" spec coil setup that is stiffer and lifts about 1". I'm not sure where you can get it, but maybe someone else here knows. Might be worth looking into... -anders

We got one from Paddocks to try and when we opened it up they were identical. All the o-rings were included too... -anderse

Yes, they are We got one from Paddocks to try and when we opened it up they were identical. All the o-rings were included too... -anders

Thanks for the replies. I don't have the lightweight nearby at the moment, but it is a Danish 24V version with the diesel filter fitted to the engine. Don't know if that is a military 2.25 diesel thing or not. I hope they use the same filter and may just get one to try as I have to order some other parts anyways. Thanks for the link to the lightweight club. I'll post over there and see if they know Cheers, -Anders

Hi, I posted this in the Military forum earlier but no one seemed to know the answer. I'm hoping someone here knows I have a 79 lightweight that needs a new diesel filter, but when I contacted Paddocks they couldn't tell me if it uses the same filter as the civilian 2.25 diesel. Does anyone know if the filters mounted on the engine block and the ones mounted on the firewall are the same? Thanks, -Anders

Hi, I have a 79 lightweight that needs a new diesel filter, but when I contacted Paddocks they couldn't tell me if it uses the same filter as the civilian 2.25 diesel. Does anyone know if the filters are interchangeable for the filters mounted on the engine block and the firewall? If not, does anyone know where to get them? Thanks, -Anders

I have heard that ford sierra seals work too, but you might have to grind down the little lip on the door frame like rtbarton said. I did see a pic somewhere but cant find it -anders

Have you tried finn.no/bil (go to land rover / andre category)? Plenty of S3s at the moment. The nlrk.no marketplace s#$ks, but there are a few gems on there once in a while. t least all the cars are lhd -anders

Chris123 - that is how mine is setup although I think mine has been a diesel all its life. I haven't had time to check out where the fuel lines go yet, but on my petrol 109 with dual tanks I have the setup described above, where it doesn't matter what the selector is set to because there is no return fuel line. I'll have to check and find out what goes where -anders

Hi, I'm trying to find out how the dual fuel tanks on a Lightweight work. Its a 79 Danish military model (diesel, 24V) with a fuel tank under each front seat. The reason I ask is because I filled both full and after driving it for a while one tank seemed to have more fuel than when I filled it up. Are you supposed to empty them in a particular order? Cheers, -Anders

After waiting for parts I finally got around to replacing the clutch slave cylinder as I wasn't sure if it was working properly. Someone told me to bolt a plate in front of it to see if there was any sponginess/air in the system and with the new setup there definitely was none. I bolted it back on, but the gear box still would not go into gear. Since I didn't bother buying a new clutch, like I should have, I put the old one back in and sure enough, it worked. This could be because it is worn, but at least I know I'm not crazy now and I probably do know how to bleed a clutch I'll probably drive it like this for a while and see how the gear box works and maybe replace the clutch next year. I need to contact AP or Paddocks and see if I got the wrong parts. Hopefully that will explain my problems. Cheers, -Anders

Thanks for the links. I thought they looked different than normal Series III, but I'm mostly familiar with Stage I V8 brakes so that might explain it -anders

Hi, Anyone know where the best place to get a brake overhaul kit for a 79 Lightweight (2.25 diesel)? I tried Paddocks but I haven't gotten an answer from them. thanks, -Anders

Well, since the last update I have removed the transmission again and found no problems with the spigot bearing (assuming this is the little brass bearing in the flywheel) and checked the main shaft for nicks. I also compared the movement of the release bearing on the old 1Ton transmission with the new one and found no differences. I'm beginning to think its either the clutch being the wrong part or it could be the clutch cylinders. I have adjusted the clutch pedal again and I think I did it the right way this time. Thanks for the description Les, I think that is how setup now. Phil, I don't have any carpet in right now, but I'll keep that in mind if I add some later. James - I have both AP clutch plate and cover, but I'm thinking this might be the only issue left. I have an expert coming by next week so maybe he will see the problem. I'm considering putting the old clutch back in as it didn't seem too worn, just old. I know this is not the best solution so maybe I should just buy another brand of clutch and try that. I'll let you all know how it goes. -anders

After some more testing today I found that (with the axles removed) when I depress the clutch and put it in 1st gear (no problem with that when since the output shafts have no resistance) I am not able to stop the output shaft from moving unless I apply plenty of parking brake. I tried running it with the parking brake on for a short while to seat the clutch but it didn't help much. If I release the clutch the engine stalls as the clutch grabs 100%. I have bled the clutch several times and gone through tons of fluid and it feels reasonably normal but I guess its not enough or there is some other adjustment I have done wrong. So my question is this: How do you guys adjust the clutch master cylinder properly from scratch and is there any other adjustment in the system that I failed to locate? thanks for all the help so far! -anders

I also changed the oil when I replaced the transmission with some GL4/GL5 compliant generic oil. Could using the wrong oil also cause the gears not to go into gear?? -anders

btw, I mentioned I got it into reverse earlier with the clutch in, but feeling it now it doesn't seem to go as easliy as a properly working gearbox should. -anders

Well, I think I have adjusted the clutch properly and I have bled the system, but its still not working. I even tried removing the shim and rubber gasket on the slave cylinder to see if I got more movement om the clutch arm. If anyone can explain or have instructions on how to properly adjust a new clutch master cylinder I would really like to know if I have done this correctly. Also, if anyone knows if there are different release bearings, clutches ect that I could have gotten wrong that would cause this problem, feel free to chime in... I'm running out of ideas now so and fear I might have to take the transmission out again -anders

hi guys, first, thanks for the replies I haven't had time to work on the car since I replaced the transmission, but I have had plenty of time to think about it I was wondering if the clutch was dragging too, so its good to read that is what you were thinking too... this was my first clutch replacement, but I think I put it back together correctly. I used a AP clutch from Paddocks and a new Britpart release bearing. I did replace the slave and master clutch cylinders recently but adjusted these to the old clutch so I will try to readjust the master cylinder for maximum throw as soon as I find time to work on it again. I will bleed the system too, just to be sure. I'll keep you updated -anders

Hi, I just replaced my 1 tonne transmission for a standard one and am having problems selecting the forward gears while the engine is running (from a stand still). Revers is not a problem. If I turn the engine off or set the transfer box in neutral I can select gears as normal, and when I get the vehicle up to speed the gears change relatively easy, although not super smooth. I also replaced the clutch while I was at it and I adjusted the clutch pedal not too long ago. The pedal seems to engage where it should, not too close to the floor, so I don't think this is the problem. Anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this? I just spent two days replacing the transmission so I don't really fancy taking it out again. Are there any adjustments I could try? all help much appreciated, -anders

Does a 200tdi disco have a pump in the tank as well as a lift pump? I'm not sure what this RR has unfortunately, but it probably has what the stock 2.4VM RR had. We did try to bleed the fuel line, but since I had never done this before I'm not sure if the diesel should flow out of the bleed screw or just bubble like it did thanks for all the help so far! -anders

I'm not sure if the preheaters are wired up correctly and my knowledge of diesel engines is small. The engine did fire for a few seconds now and again, but it just sputtered and died again. I think the owner gave it some throttle as he was using the starter but I don't think it made much difference. He just told he was going to adjust the diesel pump so I'm not sure what he actually adjusted. I'll give him a call and ask. The stop solenoid might worth checking out maybe! thanks, -anders

Hi, I've been looking at a Range Rover with a Disco 200tdi transplant that is for sale in my neighborhood. Unfortunately the owner has yet to get it started. He did the transplant himself and the engine was taken out of a running vehicle so everything should in theory work fine. The problem is that it won't fire up. The starter runs and small clouds of white/black smoke comes out the tail pipe. After 10-15 seconds on the starter the engine fires but then dies right away. First we thought it was air in the system, but we have bled it and think this is Ok now. The owner has since tried to adjust the diesel pump but I don't think this helped either. Any advice as to what could be causing this? cheers, -Anders

Snagger - good looking back seats! mind if I ask how they are fastened under the floor? I bought a set of Exmoor trim seats (the ones that fold) but I'm contemplating bolting them to the floor similar to yours. I had to mount them on top of the side boxes like yours, because if not the passengers could not get inbetween!