FridgeFreezer

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FridgeFreezer last won the day on May 19

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About FridgeFreezer

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    Director of authenticity
  • Birthday 08/22/1980

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    Gosport, UK

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    Posting wrong answers on forums

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  1. I used a RR/Disco crossmember as they bolt in and are easier to come by.
  2. I didn't even think they were 2mm, 1.5mm was the number in my head. Some aftermarket HD ones are thicker 2/2.5 but as said above I'm not sure I've ever seen anyone actually damage a chassis that wasn't already badly rusty, other than the odd dent along the bottom from landing on a rock. 3.5mm is massive overkill, sure it might not add much and it's low-down ballast I suppose but geez...
  3. Lumenition module should work on anything, usually the just need +12v power & connected to the dizzy / coil.
  4. Done loads to the Ambulance, nothing to the 109! Mind you some very expensive heims have arrived from Canada for the 109 so once a couple of outings in the ambulance are out of the way I'll be 100% on the 109. Oh and: New bathroom, new bedroom, trips to Ikea... I've not been slacking too much, just doing the wrong jobs!
  5. I would expect that replacing the driveshafts & flanges would sort it, although which combination I'm not sure. Needs Nige to wade in really.
  6. You can/could get Isuzu conversion rings to bolt in front of a V8 gearbox so that would be an way of getting the V8 clutch, but you'd need the V8 box & bellhousing.
  7. You don't want bar grips. I drove the 109 to Russia and back on (sort of) bar grips - actually 9.00x16 Petlas: Dirtydiesel was ahead of me in the convoy in a 300TDi RRC with no interior/soundproofing, he said he spent hours on the road trying to find the odd noise his truck was making - dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, etc. etc... eventually we pulled into a petrol station, and as I rolled to a halt behind him he realised it was my tyres he could hear!
  8. Pretty sure ECU's shouldn't contain oil, sometimes it can wick along wires and into enclosures so perhaps that's what's happened.
  9. Some of these suggestions sound overcomplicated to me: clean it to death, prep the edges, whack the amps up & wire speed down and burn it in well.
  10. Just noticed this chassis swap / rebuild thread which looks like it may contain very useful info:
  11. That's awesome! Where did you find those little oil cans?
  12. LR axles aren't very thick, I'd think with good prep and a bit of practice beforehand to get the settings dialled in it'd be up to the job. Can always run a 2nd bead over the top with a bit of figure-8 weaving.
  13. Are you sure that steel is thick enough - is there not a battleship or something you could cut a bit off?
  14. At your service...
  15. Seriously, if you're doing it properly rather than just want to bodge it up & drive it until the next MOT failure, a galvanised chassis & bulkhead are far less faffing about than welding and will increase the value of the truck quite a lot as two of the major problems are solved forever. Welding requires something solid to weld to and I'm not convinced you're going to find that on the bulkhead you've got.