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FridgeFreezer last won the day on November 15

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About FridgeFreezer

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    Basingstoke Amazingstoke, UK

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    Posting misleading answers on forums

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  1. If it fires (sparks) on starter fluid it's likely NOT immobilised. The ECU controls the fuel pump, and for it to decide the engine is cranking it needs to see pulses from the -ve side of the coil (white wire, black trace, possibly also via a relay into white wire with blue trace) and the airflow meter reading some flow - flapper ones the flap actually switched some contacts, I don't know about hotwire. What do you mean relays are gone? If they're missing that would certainly prevent power to the fuel pump
  2. Is that EDIS (did you get a Ford EDIS module with the kit)? Usually Nige sells Ford coil packs & mounting brackets to put them at the front which would solve your problem; While I'm going through my photos, this is how to do the PAS pipe - you need the angle(s) pictured, then cut off the end (left of pic), clean/polish it up nice and smooth and stick a compression olive hydraulic fitting on, I think the adapter takes it to a 3/8" BSP fitting which makes for sensible-sized hose for the rest of the routing. I think I did a similar thing at the PAS box end too. The HP ho
  3. As Carloz says, minor problems... what Megasquirt setup are you using as that will dictate which solutions work best for coil packs. - Remote filter is an easy one, yes just get a Mocal spin-on adapter & head. - Coil packs depends which MS/how it's built but nothing that can't be solved - PAS pipes you'll need at least the high-pressure side done by a hydraulics supplier, also you need the steel part of the pipe that comes out of the pump and runs down behind the belts as that angle/route is too tight to get a rubber hose & fittings in sensibly (ask me how I know). There
  4. Yeah, the PDFs as-is are obscurely named but I went through mine and re-named the ones I'm interested in.
  5. I thought everyone just used the extracted PDF's with no software requirement beyond a PDF reader of choice?
  6. My better half uses small rotary tumblers for jewellery polishing, they work well - you can buy all manner of media from coarse stuff aimed at knocking sharp edges off to fine-grade mirror-polishing. Rotary polisher is a very easy build - a drum you can put stuff in and a motor to turn it at sensible speed... not unlike a cement mixer as suggested above. I don't know if rotary Vs vibratory makes a difference but certainly rotary ones feel like an easier build and less annoying in use.
  7. Well an update - and progress! The garage buzzed out everything from the diagnostics socket and discovered a break in the VAN bus (not the CAN bus) wire, which no-one had realised was being used by the ECU. So, hopefully with that bridged out with a fresh wire they can at last crack on with the diagnostics.
  8. Yeah Jez has moved on (family life etc.) and someone else cloned the high-ratio diffs he was making which meant he couldn't do any more. The other bits I've kept on with, as much as anything because I still have a vehicle with the 303's fitted so I need to keep my stuff going. Don't always have a huge stock as that costs money, but can get most things one way or another - I don't think there's any service item I wouldn't feel confident being able to source fairly easily.
  9. If you're cooking your shocks you need better shocks... given that genuine ones are rated for thrashing across the desert in a laden 130 ambulance (3500kg+ gvw) I'd question if aftermarket shocks may not be as rufty-tufty as they make out.
  10. My approach to overland trucks is that everything should either be standard or swappable with standard - if build an Uber-axle using all sorts of special bits and then lunch a bearing in the middle of nowhere, you are more likely going to be able to get a standard part than some custom-whittled special bit that only that one company back home have any of. By all means uprated shafts for example, but if you throw an LSD in that needs special oil you've made your truck harder to service/repair. Also I thought/had heard that lockers didn't necessarily help on snow/ice as locking the whe
  11. A bigger alternator is not going to hurt anything but may well be utterly pointless - most of the time the loads are below the alternator's output anyway, it only works hard for a few minutes after starting, maybe a bit longer in the winter. TL;DR if your battery voltage is ~13.8V (or whatever your alternator's set-point is) when running, a bigger alternator is going to do nothing for you. I posted measurements of alternator current in another thread but jiggered if I can remember where The long version is add up your loads, add maybe 5-10A for battery charging and compare that
  12. I think later wheels fit earlier, but not the other way round.
  13. Hydrogen embrittlement of metals is a problem too - dude in the states blew himself up storing hydrogen in steel tanks. They were fully pressure rated (welding gas sort of tanks) but after a while they just... exploded
  14. Another option with less plumbing is the LOF clutch slave cylinders - fitted one to the 109 as it was only a few quid more than a standard one, and WOW has it made a difference!
  15. I have always been sceptical of hydrogen as a fuel for cars, it brings numerous difficulties and honestly right now it feels like the far simpler battery EV is going to look way more attractive to most consumers than hydrogen.
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