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FridgeFreezer last won the day on May 26

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About FridgeFreezer

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    Basingstoke Amazingstoke, UK

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    Posting misleading answers on forums

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  1. Is this a standard MS1 + EDIS setup? Is the fuel pump running / LED's flashing on the ECU when the engine turns - or to put it another way, is the ECU getting an RPM signal?
  2. Worth noting that fuse rating does not equal fuse blow - the factory 35A glass fuses start to smoke at about 17A continuous load, which I suspect is why they never fused the lighting circuit on Series. You want you fuse rating to be below the rating of whatever wiring comes after it, I usually step up a wire size if it's even within ~70% of the rating of the wire, reduces voltage drop too. Wire's cheap enough after all.
  3. I don't think it's a big problem on the odd occasion, but as Mr Hobbit states he drives like that all the time over tens of thousands of miles it will add up.
  4. Ignition live (white) into start button, starter wire (white/red) removed from ignition switch, connected to other side of starter button. Switch needs to handle at least 10A current unless your starter's on a relay.
  5. So which one is the "red engine electrical warning light" - is it the battery symbol? If so that can pretty much only be the alternator or its wiring, you can have a dodgy diode in the alternator and it will still charge but it might also decide to catch on fire depending on the failure.
  6. Yeah, random big heavy lumps are very useful for work holding when measuring / cutting / welding but you can't buy 'em like that unless you're loaded, just got to look for likely offcuts / scrap.
  7. I think you can program a new key yourself as long as you've got at least one working old key but not 100% sure, it's either in the owner's manual or the RAVE workshop manuals. Failing that a dealer can do it for a fee, or there's people all over eBay who offer it for cheap.
  8. One that's that good I'd expect JLR will buy it and restore it and flog it on for 100k as they appear to be doing with them now. Failing that I'll give ya £100 for it mista!
  9. Don't have the manual (do have an early Haynes though), what do you need?
  10. Thanks Dave, I was considering sort of dunking them in a pot of something so the ends are submerged, I'm not trying to clean or flow-test them, just provide a realistic load to the ECU.
  11. I'm looking to build a test-rig using actual parts, including a set of injectors - but it would be super convenient if I could run them without having to supply (and catch) fuel. Anyone know if it's OK to do this? Perhaps fill them with light oil and cap the ends or something just to lubricate the moving part? Purpose is to soak-test ECU's although I'd rather not kill the injectors if I can avoid it.
  12. It's not just that, it's that you're not controlling the voltage or current per LED, and any weaker ones in the string (operating a fraction of a volt lower than the rest) will get the majority of the current and burn out.
  13. Well going from diesel to V8 you'll need different mounts - I would swing the engine & gearbox & transfer box in, get the transfer & gearbox on the original mounts and that will show you where the engine needs to be.
  14. Well it's MOT exempt and comes with an engine & box, so technically it could be rolling...
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