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FridgeFreezer last won the day on June 14

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About FridgeFreezer

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    Director of authenticity
  • Birthday 08/22/1980

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    Gosport, UK

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  1. Flush is kinda pointless for a slider, a little proud will hardly notice. Dan did a lovely job on my sliders/sills, they stick out a fair bit but look right:
  2. I suspect it'll be the same as electric cars - nearly but not quite for a long time yet with no-one willing to admit it.
  3. For a given definition of "autonomous"... we're still decades from anything I'd trust with my life whilst reading a book on the back seat. Lots of hype / money floating around it as the next big thing at the moment though.
  4. Bit more info would be handy - flash read errors from what? If you've pushed glitched data into the MS you should be able to pull it out with Megatune & see what's what, compare to a known good settings file from before you broke it
  5. The small hose out of the top of the "lower" inlet manifold (by the temp sender) is supposed to be plumbed to a small heating block under the plenum throttle butterfly, and then out to the top of the rad.
  6. Nice truck - you'll find the 1800 petrol won't change MPG much if you zip about or if you drive carefully, it only really drop if you're doing 90+ on the autobahn for long periods. As others have said - sling some decent AT's on and you won't notice any problems on-road, I did ~30k on General Grabber AT2's as a daily 100 mile commute and they were great, gripped better than some of the road tyres I've had. Swapping sets of wheels gets old really quickly and saves naff all.
  7. 4WD

    If you like the car & want to keep it then you might make an argument that you'll be needing a new viscous coupling unit (VCU - the vital part of the propshaft that causes the problems) and most likely a replacement IRD (the transfer box) which has by the sound of it suffered damage (as is very common) due to a seized VCU. VCU's can be had for about £250 from Bell Engineering, DO NOT accept a 2nd hand one from anywhere. Fitting is a fairly easy job if you have the old propshaft complete, couple of hours at absolute most. IRD's are about £1000 (or £1500 ish from Land Rover), fitting varies, I think the TD4 is a bit of a pain but mine was swapped in less than a day by a 1-man mobile mechanic. If you'd rather not bother I'd suggest you've got strong grounds to throw the car back at them, get a full refund and buy something else from someone else.
  8. I've had a 1.8 and a TD4, the TD4 is more bulletproof and a bit more economical BUT as you've spotted the 1.8's have a bad reputation and are therefore much cheaper. To be honest, any 1.8 still running should be fine as most either died a while ago or got the fixes done. With the fixes done properly they're cracking little engines (same as the early Lotus Elise) and you can get a bargain. If I was towing I might favour the TD4 but for zipping about the 1.8 is great, and as you say it's half price. FL2 alloys don't fit FL1, and pre-td4 alloys don't fit post-td4 vehicles.
  9. You should only need 3 wires for the RS232 cable: Tx, Rx, Ground. Any time a USB adapter is involved there's opportunity for problems as they can buffer data or have flow control / wrong speed etc. You'd almost be better off using the Pi's GPIO UART pins and a stock MAX3232 driver.
  10. Could be a shonky earth, it's often the case when more than one thing is affected. Check the earth straps (engine to chassis, chassis to battery, wiring loom to bulkhead, etc.). You can prove suspect ones by bridging them with a jump lead, if things get better with the jump lead that's your suspect.
  11. Now if this ain't the best "street sleeper" I've seen in a long while: M3 powered D2 anyone?
  12. 2.5 N/A may not make the BHP but it will make more torque than a lot of sports cars from idle. I know which I'd sooner put into a 2ton off-roader
  13. They changed with the IIA, I think early ones were a Rover axle & later they were Salisbury. I'd wonder about sending it to Nige for rebuild & pegging unless you want the fun of DIYing it, that way you have an uprated unit to swap in.
  14. I'd very much agree with GW8IZR's observation - if you really just rebuild stuff fully and properly (with a TDi that means a full recon of the injection pump too) and get it all set up nicely you can be surprised how lovely it comes out without any trick bits. That said, if you've got a spare head & want to experiment then go for it - you can make a DIY flow bench to see how well you're doing using an old vacuum cleaner, there was an article in PPC some years ago. You do have to be a bit wary of doing "tuner stuff" on a Land Rover lump though, what the tuning / racing crowd want and what works nicely in a 2ton brick are very different things. I'd hope a better flowing head wouldn't hurt anything though.
  15. I'd guess the top bleed hose allows air bubbles to bleed out from the highest spot and keep the system working correctly. Certainly that's true for the EFI manifold.