Jump to content


Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


FridgeFreezer last won the day on July 16

FridgeFreezer had the most liked content!


2,470 Excellent


About FridgeFreezer

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Basingstoke Amazingstoke, UK

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Posting misleading answers on forums

Recent Profile Visitors

10,902 profile views
  1. Can confirm - would have that badge from you if it's surplus to requirements Dave?
  2. That's not a transducer, it's just a solenoid valve, I believe it picks up on one of the fuel rail mounting studs alongside the plenum.
  3. If nothing else it's a question answered and something you can firmly tick off the list of guesses.
  4. Hate to say it but P40 and mesh isn't a repair, it's a cosmetic cover-up job at best.
  5. Depends - we spent a bit putting a 4.6 in the Ambulance but as it started life as V8, converting to anything else would've meant throwing a good gearbox away too as well as all the ancillary parts & plumbing that goes with that swap. As it is, if I drive it as slow as a TDi I get over 20mpg and a very smooth relaxed drive. Any engine swap will add up a ton of little ancillary bits so it's not really worth adding up. Any engine swap where you get to retain almost complete nut-and-bolt compatibility / totally standard parts-book parts is well worth it compared to anything that involves even minimal custom bits - both my trucks are now as close to standard Defender V8 setup as possible, but with 4.6's that are as close to standard P38 configuration as possible, so belts, hoses, filters, sensors, ancillaries, brackets, etc. are all pretty much as they left the factory and believe me it's so much nicer than trying to remember which make/model/year a particular hose or part came from when you're trying to service or repair it. These days if you can find a decent engine machine shop (my local one is Banda in Portsmouth who are incredibly reasonable) getting the block tested, cleaned up and even top-hatted needn't be super expensive and as others have said, with an old engine you're better off with the devil you know than rolling the dice on another 2nd hand unit that could bring just as many issues with it. Turners will be charging very strong money for top-hatting from what I've seen. E5 or e10 isn't a problem for any of the major bits - very old fuel hoses and the cork fuel tank seals don't like it but we've run ours on e10 through Europe and it's absolutely fine on it.
  6. Go on, call Mr Nonimouse an amateur and give us all a good laugh
  7. As others said, the 3.5 is the lowest horses for pennies but if you want to keep it period / numbers matching there's plenty you can do to make the 3.5 sweeter for not much money. @Bowie69 is bang on with cheap updates, even a stock 3.9 cam is worthwhile, and doing a full and meticulous rebuild to freshen everything up / make it as good as it can be is an easy enough job with fairly cheap & available parts - @Bull Bar Cowboy did an excellent thread many moons ago now where he rebuilt his 3.9 very properly and it's well worth a read if you can find it in the archives. I believe the compression is set by the pistons so if you've got a low-comp 3.5 you're into replacing pistons to up the ratio although you can skim it as well if you really want to. As part of a rebuild like the one I just mentioned you may be buying shiny new pistons anyway so it could be a zero-cost change.
  8. Had a very similar experience on my 109 - came home from a site day and the gaiters were filled with silt and one had pinched and split.
  9. The "extracted" PDF's are just in folders in the RAVE install, they're not locked or anything they've just got somewhat cryptic names - workshop manuals are usually wmln12345 or something, electrical ones start el.... service bulletins are something like ts12345... etc. But they are also definitely out there on the internet for free too.
  10. @smallfry - the short version is modern diesels are a fair bit more involved to run ECU-wise but of course anything's possible... the problem is the R&D process requires at least one or two sacrifices to the dyno gods which stacks up a bit quick as a home project, buying 3-4 good TV8 engines just to hopefully end up with one running one starts to feel quite expensive. The 4HP24 controller has come up a few times and I'm absolutely sure it's a very simple thing, if someone had the info on what exactly happens when & what the ECU is driving (how many solenoids at what power rating) and what it needs to "know" (RPM, load, throttle...?) or maybe just an "up" button and a "down" button and call it done - that would likely be a pretty simple project.
  11. I think the Pirelli P-Zeros on my Jag did ~40-50k on the front and basically forever on the back, and were surprisingly cheap for 18" low-profiles, less than £100 a corner and the tyre guys didn't have anything more expensive (but plenty cheaper options). Came out to <0.005p/mile I reckon.
  12. We used foil-backed closed-cell foam (from ebay.co.uk/usr/car-insulation-uk) under the trans tunnel & seatbox and it massively cut noise & heat coming up - sealing any little holes or gaps makes a big difference too.
  13. Freelander twin-fan relay lets both run at low-speed then high speed, I picked a couple up for about a tenner each, posted.
  14. The Waeco has a freezer section but the fridge bit is so efficient we have to turn it down as it will freeze things at the back of the fridge section. You can pull the freezer shelf out and gain fridge room too.
  15. Well I hope they've had the 2-week intensive training course on correct usage of steps
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy