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FridgeFreezer

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About FridgeFreezer

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    Basingstoke Amazingstoke, UK

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  1. It's an old one but here's a datalog showing EGO correction in action cruising along the motorway: This is with a narrowband O2 sensor - the bottom trace shows O2 sensor voltage in green and EGO correction in red, you can see the red line "steps" up and down in response to the changes of O2 signal, constantly trimming the fuelling. This saves a surprising amount of fuel, I've had over 20mpg out of both my 4.6's on long motorway stints and neither of them is in a sensible vehicle.
  2. You'll need a high-pressure petrol pump, might be able to use a later tank. A 99 Disco 2 would have the 4.0 not the 3.9 wouldn't it? If so that's the one to have* as it's the cross-bolted block. Get the exhaust front half - downpipes, Y-piece, etc. too, and keep the PAS hose on the engine end. *= Assuming of course the Range Rover isn't also a P38 with a 4.0 or 4.6 in it?
  3. For once I agree with the heavyweight engineering - mog axles are a huge sprung weight and you're adding about 4-6" of leverage in the portal box offset (so like going up 8-12" diameter in the tyre) plus presumably you're not going to be running a set of 7.50's on them when it's done, so the huge extra weight plus huge extra leverage on the suspension links needs to be accounted for.
  4. They're a lovely bit of kit, nicely engineered. I've heard a few problems from some people, ruomurs of poor quality bearings in later units but they're still head and shoulders over the GKN offering. Mine's done a fair few miles in a 3ton vehicle with a 4.6 V8 in front of it and held up sell so far. If you fit it, get the extended finned sump for the LT230 while you're there, the overdrive will warm the oil quite a lot so extra capacity & cooling is nice.
  5. Depending on the age of the two they might be identical - later ones the engine loom was integrated into the body loom so a right old faff to separate, earlier ones could be got out as a separate loom with only a few wires to connect.
  6. As Bowie says, it's not critical - set it too low and the thing is trying to make adjustments before the exhaust gas has got down the pipe to the lambda sensor. The ECU basically goes: Read EGO sensor value, if it's not quite right apply one step of correction. Wait for the set number of ignition events to happen Read EGO sensor value, if it's not quite right apply one step of correction. Wait for the set number of ignition events to happen etc...
  7. Ignition events per step is how many "bangs" it waits between making adjustments, 32 is quite low/fast (4 engine cycles on a V8) Step size is how much it's allowed to move the correction at a time Controller Authority is how far in total it's allowed to stray from the map, with a good map +/-5% or 10% is enough, if you make this too large a bad sensor or reading can pull you too far from the map. Active above / below stops it from making EGO adjustments when you're operating in conditions that the lambda sensor isn't appropriate for (especially with a narrowband) ; Coolant temp stops it trying to lean things off during cold-start enrichment RPM stops it trying to lean your idle off Above/below MAP stops it either leaning off your high-load top-of-the-map or richening up your "coast / over-run" bottom-of-map Hope that helps.
  8. You need to be careful how much authority you give it, but in general it's great especially for your MPG on a cruise. Generally, if your fuel map is pretty bang-on, the authority only needs to be +/-5% so it is making minor tweaks not dragging the map around - and remember it doesn't permanently change the map, it's only tweaking the "live" values. Setting it to move too much or too quickly can very easily lead to the whole system "hunting".
  9. You'll certainly get yourself an interesting set of minor problems with that setup - the Defender chassis is different enough to the Series that you'll have a lot of stuff that doesn't quite line up - and the pick-ups are different (on both) to the CSW so you may have to cut some parts of your lovely galvanised chassis. My 109 CSW was rebuilt on a pick-up chassis, but they were both Series 3 and not galv, so modification wasn't an issue. The front end is going to be a challenge if you don't want to move the engine, you'll likely have to trim the back of the radiator panel down and almost certainly run an electric fan. You may be able to keep the Defender radiator but only if you use bonnet pins / clips rather than the standard release mechanism. A lot of it you'll only find out as you go, I would say that before you start you need to get a good tape measure and a notebook and measure everything on both vehicles - every mounting, every bracket, every panel fit, etc. and then measure it all again, twice, before starting. And before some other pedant points it out - a Range Rover back axle is not weight-rated for a 110 chassis.
  10. What engine is it? Sounds like your mechanic f'ed something up. Only problem driving front-only is you wear the engine mounts out faster.
  11. Did I miss something, why are you taking the valves out?
  12. You need one of these sets: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/8-piece-impact-socket-adaptor-set/ Then you can use a 1/2" breaker on those sockets.
  13. Servo shouldn't affect pedal travel, if it was faulty the pedal would get a lot harder to push not drop to the floor. Could be a flexi pipe ballooning or a seal in the master cylinder at a very rough guess, there's not much to bakes and if fluid's not leaking it can only be a few things.
  14. Any chance of uploading the pics for those of us who block social media? The sheer volume of hastags on that makes me want to vomit.
  15. A few pictures of the engine bay would be helpful at this point, you can't get an engine to 2800rpm idle without a fairly obvious path for air to get in.
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