[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

1 hour ago, lo-fi said:

I gather it's in an awkward position to get to, but on other vehicles I've seen people drill a hole in the exhaust housing to pipe a little oven cleaner into, which clears the carbon sludge jamming the vanes and saves taking the turbo off. Drill and tap for a taper thread bung to seal it back up after. Whether that's any good for emission control gear downstream I couldn't vouch for, though! Can you get any more movement just working it back and forth with the wire? 

Lo-fi

Good tip thanks....Although something feels awkward jiggling it with the wire...it is like a solid "clunck"...like it gets stuck on heat shield or maybe something was dropped, Nut, washer etc and got stuck between actuator arm and turbo body or heat shield....I was sitting, jiggling the turbo with my head buried in the wheel well for 2 hours this morning...after dousing it with Q20/W40 for 24 hours

As said the turbo was reconditioned with the installation of the new sub 3 months ago and EGR's blanked and cat removed the vehicle only did about 2000 km and each time filled applied 2So 500 ml per tank

After installing new engine..3 months ago..Replaced Tappet covers......Injectors was taken out in sito and tested..replaced...Taken out again and another refurbished set installed...

Somewhere something went wrong....!!

I am looking to buy a probe cam to try and see at the back of the actuator arm..(Already quoted new turbo)

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

New Diesel filter installed after cleaning LPFP filter/strainer

All the quick fixes tried to no avail...The dreaded "Engine System Fault PO132B" is glued to the scanner

Cleared and direct after start it is back...The vehicle drive well on normal acceleration but the moment more power is needed and pedal position 60% + it goes to limp..

Everything shows back to Turbo Actuator and although I can hear the stepper motor whining there is very little movement on the arm itself..

I made the wire hook and can push/pull the actuator at most 3 mm...I have seen it should move about an inch = 2 cm..

The turbo was reconditioned 3 months ago...

Doused it with (Q 20/W40) for 2 days now without success...

The removal of turbo and maybe replacement seems to become a reality now....??? (15  hrs in sito)

 

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

5 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Black sludge?

Bowie....Seems like Algae...Cleaned out and reinstalled plus new filter but the loss of power on acceleration  is still there

Diagnostic fault code P132B showed ...Turbo was reconditioned 2 months ago..Actuator moves freely..

Injector 3 is also not in Spec (Bit High)

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

Think I have found my "Gremlin"

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

3 hours ago, Magnet6x6 said:

Hercu if you've got Robbie on the job you couldn't be in better hands

Good luck

Magnet....Truly Robbie knows his Disco's and I am "eating" up his info on the internet...

Although we are worlds apart I can feel the integrity and enthusiasm of that guy on his reports and writings...

Kind regards

 

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

Got a super link where the LPFP comes to question

Checked the stream from the Schrader Valve and truly poor..

According to Robbie on Disco 3 UK forum should have at least 0.5 bar and the amps drawn close to 9 Amps.

Will get hold of a low pressure gauge and test but my gut feel says that little stream is not even 0.1 bar

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

16 minutes ago, Magnet6x6 said:

I'm not familiar with the TD6 so forgive if this is a silly question but
is there any chance that the Turbo hose is failing?
I had a D1 300tdi and the inside of the turbo hose delaminated.
Under heavy revs it closed up causing the same sort of symptoms
Only found it by reving the engine from under the bonnet and fidling

Just a thought, HTH

 

 

It is totally possible..And I will investigate...I changed a turbo once on my Di due to a delaminating turbo hose...

Only by revving I could not see but need to take it off and inspect thoroughly..

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

On 9/8/2018 at 10:04 AM, reb78 said:

Brake switch. Change that and i reckon all will be solved. 

 

On 9/9/2018 at 11:08 AM, Magnet6x6 said:

Hi Hercu

Have you had water ingress at some time, perhaps blocked sun roof drains causing wet carpet & water / dampness in the sills?

The reason I ask is that there's a notorious wiring junction that is easily corroded under such circumstances.
It throws up an enormous range of random faults & symptoms such as HDC, gearbox change issues, special programmes unavailable and a host more.
I had it on mine.

Its a red wire forming a "Y" connection in the loom bundle located in the drivers footwell close to the kick panel.

I'm really sorry but I'm struggling to find either a suitable link or photos of it at the mo. Ureka, only an hour later 😁

The thread can be found at https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/transmission-fault-hdc-traction-control-off-etc-137607.html?highlight=U0416-86+(2F)&start=15

HTH

Untitled.tiff

On 9/12/2018 at 12:13 PM, Magnet6x6 said:

You're most welcome. Let us know how you get on

Thank you

Progress on Fault Finding or either not finding major wrongs

The Split off was not corroded and there was little corrosion on pins off Module 

Cleaned with Electrical cleaner

Battery is new and Alternator Charges on 14.7 volt

Still awaiting Brake light switch as final hope to solve this issue

Next Report what have been done

Received Brake switch and Installed

Had bonnet open warning ....... installed new bonnet switch

Coolant level low warning........ Got new expansion tank with sensor and installed

Checked all bulbs and seems to be original...no black recidue or any sighn of poor contact

But still I get the bong..."Special programs Off" and total loss of power if accelerating hard

I can at that speed (120 km/h) go to Neutral without switching ignition off/on allow 5 seconds and the engine will rev up normally...and I can continue driving normally

Slow ecceleration does not cause the vehicle to cut power..Just when I put my foot down

Tried on speed control+++++ (from set 100 Kph ++++++++and somewhere 130 Kph it cuts power)..means it is not the eccelerator pedal switch/sensor ????

Now awaiting proper Diognostic scanner and hopefully can fine this "ghost"

 

 

[Disco 2 or Disco 3 ..... Discuss!]

1 hour ago, Magnet6x6 said:

CD I have to disagree
IMHO, be it on road or be it off road, in no way is the D2 better than the D3 

Hercu ""make good friends with someone with a diagnostic reader.".."
From both the standard owner and the "working on it" perspectives, you have to change your mind set.
A multi meter and a IID tool, BT version preferred, are essential tools that you'd carry in the same way as you carry a jack
Every owner should budget for one and keep it in the car.

I should have said earlier that I have the V8 but other than the engine the other systems are the same as the TDs
Once you see how they're put together the "fear factor" goes away. They are as straightward to work on as any other LR
And there is a truly excellent level of support available on the Internet.
So much so that if the support wasn't as good as it is the fear factor would have prevented me from buying a D3

 

 

Magnet....

Totally accepted that I need a "Mind Change"

 IID tool is ordered and eagerly awaiting delivery...and enjoy the vehicle for what it is....Excellent and fixable with the right tools

I was/am spoiled by the simplicity and reliability of the 300 TDi Disco 1 with now 400 000 Km on the clock...Whenever stuck next to the road the tools to fix was a normal set of tools and screwdrivers..Either Fan belt..Water hoses or diesel filter could be fixed in a jiff..

Totally new experience to drive in comfort and then the dreadful "Bong" " Special programs off" and limp to the side of the road just to recycle the key and good to go again..

As a 1958 model myself that kind of technology is hard to get under the belt...Opening the Bonnet with that plastic covers covering the whole engine bay is frightening at first... but I need to adapt or Die...Like the Dinosaurs...

Yes..There is excellent support and that is also my reason for buying a D3 TDV 6 as upgrade

[Disco 2 or Disco 3 ..... Discuss!]

My 300 TD1 Disco1 is called old Faithful for a reason...It is fixable and reliable....

The D3 is a different cup of tea..Excellent vehicle but so electricaland as advised above "make good friends with someone with a diagnostic reader."..

I mean...it go in limp when a brake light globe does not make good contact...!

I love my D3 when it runs...super strong..good 4 x 4 in the sand ..comfortable ...soft ride...But you did not make a bad statement by typing "D£" 

The D3 really needs a lot of good maintenance ...and parts are fairly expensive....

What I have read on the D2.... it is bullet proof and really runs well ..Excellent 4 x 4 

My D1 is rusting off its chassis..and all the TD5's (D2) I looked at had rust in hidden places...and I bought a D3

Beauty and the beast

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

 Thank you once again

Found the splice in good shape with no corrosion....resealed 

Opened the module connections and slight green corrosion on pinns ....cleaned with Electro clean and refitted

Now just awaiting new brake switch to see if problem solved...

Started but after a while showed "Engine System Fault" again

Did not yet take it for test drive

Alternator charges at 14.9 volts...

Find some wires removed on connecter as per pic...Don't know for what it was originally (Red Circle)

Also found the carpet to be wet and will fix the sunroof drip off...whilst open

 

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

Reb 78  Thank you

Brake switch ordered and really hope it will solve this irritating problem

Magnet 6 x 6

Totally possible and worth a check Thank you so much.

[Discovery 3 Limp on acceleration]

I have a 2006 Disco 3 TDV 6 2.7 S and most recently I received an 'Engine System Fault'. What I have noticed is that when I press the accelerator pedal to a point where the vehicle changes down to lower gear, then the car shows 'Special programs off' and goes like into limp mode and there is no acceleration after it reaches this point. I then switch the vehicle off and after a half a minute I restart, the vehicle has gone out of limp mode and I can move on again. 

I can even sit it to Idle half a minute and can pull off with full power again but the moment I floor it the same symptoms appear and hearing kind of whistle

New Sub +/- 2000 km

New Battery…Recon Turbo…Refurbished injectors

Cleaned MAP and MAF sensors

EGR blanked and butterfly removed.

Checked for split turbo hose and Actuator is moving freely

Show “coolant level low” and awaiting new container with float sensor

Changed oil on 1000 km, new filters Air/diesel/ Oil 

Auto box new filter and filled Dexron 6 and Dr Tranny

Could it be Oxygen sensors ???

[Which Discovery 4 / LR4 - 3.0 TDV6 or 5.0 V8?]

A-RO 95

I am one of the ones battling to get a TDV 6 alive again and although mine is a 2.7 in the same category as 3.0  Diesel ....once broken it cost an arm and a leg to fix

The consumption on the V 6  Diesel is not much better than the V 8 petrol but as far as i know the V 8 beats the V 6 by 1000% comes to reliability

Engine failure is never heard of where the breakers is full of V6 diesels breaking for parts in South Africa..Just check Gumtree.co.za for Discovery 3/4 breaking for spares

The V 8 is a very heavy but truly nice truck with all the power you need and can be used to its full capability on your beautiful Autobahn's

My personal opinion... if I ever change it will be a V8 Petrol

[TDV 6 Injector test]

12 hours ago, Richard Mills said:

In my opinion injector No1 is not delivering enough, but it is marginal. A round of injector cleaner should fix it.

The test results are very detailed, a good report.

On the V6, it's normally injector 6 that overheats and fails.

Thank you, Yes the difficult one to remove, underneath the loom...

No 1 is a fraction out according to the test and certainly a good round Injector cleaner should do the job..Thank you

[TDV 6 Injector test]

The Disco is up and alive and the knocking sound was a hydraulic lifter and replaced all on the one bank

Now the disco is over fueling madly and had the Injectors tested but with my limited knowledge I do not know what the report says

Must I replace only no 1 Injector/ is that the problem ?

The other 5 seems to have passed all tests.... is it Good...OK...Fair or Bad and on the border line ???

 

CRB_282018_1113_31454 NO_ 1.pdf

CRB_282018_1129_31242 NO_ 2.pdf

CRB_282018_1147_31436 NO_ 3.pdf

CRB_282018_1159_31581 NO_ 4.pdf

CRB_282018_1211_31456 NO_ 5.pdf

CRB_282018_1222_31438 NO_ 6.pdf

[300 Tdi air filtration]

Sabre

I opted to install the defender element air cleaner on my snorkel and belief I am getting super filtration.

Yes it demanded a few mods like moving the window washer water bottle but I am very Happy.

[2.7 TDV 6 knocking sound on start up]

The 2.7 TDV 6 Disco 3 with new sub and recon heads started and on revving there is a serious knock lik piston hitting the valve

Could it actually be a valve hitting the piston or maybe a lazy hydraulic lifter, Injector (Diesel) knock ????

The smoking is from cracked return coupling and was fixed but the problem remained

 

[Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6]

Updated progress report.....and it is a wall....

Quoted "millions" of engineering works, proclaimed engine rebuilders and genuine Land Rover Sub importers....

The painful outcome is whatever road will be taken it is over valuing this vehicle totally......and worst of all it does not lift the resale value by 1 penny...It even brings the value down because the next buyer will not believe that the "new" engine is done to last...To much fly by nights...

I have been warned not to rebuild this engine but rather buy a new Sub...or Long Block...

On current exchange rate a new long block sub is a mighty £6285-00

Short block new Sub..£3885-00

Where to from here? I am not certain yet but for now the project is a bit on ice.....!

[Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6]

7 minutes ago, elbekko said:

Check the rest of the car for water damage before you sink any more money into it.

Elbekko...Rest is fine...actually the vehicle is in a very good condition

This vehicle had the famous Disco 3 TDV 6 water manifold parting syndrome one the most inappropriate time...and in the Natal midlands there is tidal rivers and I think this happened  on the high tide and salty water was collected just to keep going... It eventually seized and was left standing for almost 4 months

And I was the "lucky" one to buy it

[TD5 disco clutch not bleeding]

EJ......If you haven't fixed this yet try force/Reverse bleeding

Open bleeding nipple on slave  use a tube with exact fit over nipple and force brake fluid from bottom upwards..

Was the only way to bleed my Disco 1 300 TDi

[Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6]

Lo-fi / Garry

Good advice ..Thank you 

Yes, truly shocking and a "'complete mess" seems to have sea/ salt water in it ???

The crank yes, best to get a new one but a new crank on its own is £ 2020 where a complete Remanufactured sub is £ 3344 , doubt if I can get all the other parts needed for £ 1324

Will definitely need new pistons and rings..maybe conrods...Bearings main and big end, water pump, oil pump..Valves..

Certainly the Reman sub is the best option although the bank manager

Will keep you informed and updated

 

[Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6]

Posted previous before completion...Continued...

A complete used engine in South Africa  is ZAR R 80 000 €  5095   £ 4613  $ 6430  over 150 000 Km

Remanufactured with OEM parts and line bored ZAR R 58 000 € 3694  £ 3344  $ 4662 1 year guarantee 

Rebuild Subs comes with timing gear where Remanufactured doesn't / all is new oil pump fitted

Not a huge difference in price between Rebuilds and Reman's

Recon is fairly cheaper but the risk is so much higher

Apparently the 2005 and 2006 models is recon/ rebuilded with a fair amount of success

Goods news is that the Injectors was tested and certified fit

Turbo refurbished and certified...Still need to test the VHPF...

But the engineering works are still battling to get pistons out of the block...??

[Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6]

 One and Half months later and I am still between walls

The engine is opened and a disaster...all rusted and pistons stuck in the block..Got the injectors out and the Turbo is also rusted

Crank damaged and need to be ground if rebuild myself

[300Tdi wont rev]

Filip

Have you "played" around with the Android setting or checked the Diaphragm for leaks

Mark the direction how you remove it/ on the deepest it will give you a full movement of the pin..

Put grease/Vaseline on the conical and rev up and after opening again you will see how far it travelled