gripper
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Posts posted by gripper
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my 300tdi r reg 1998 has a white plug with 3 wires in it that plugs into the fuse box top right ish next to the flasher relay with white wire, yellow wire and a white/red wire.
the white/red goes to the starter via the imobiliser circuit i know this as i have taken a wire from her straight to the starter solonoid to bypass the imobiliser until i get a new remote programmed.
haven't tested the other wires except when i wanted a permanent live and it wasn't either of the other 2 so there must be another wire to feed the ignition attached elsewhere.
just looked in the haynes book but it only goes up to 1995, it says the red/white is same as i said to starter relay, white is power from ignition to everything else, and power to ignition switch should be brown.
makes no mention of the yellow wire in mine. best thing you can do is get a multi meter or test lamp to find a live.
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glad i could be of help
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check the wires to make sure that none are chaffed at all as it could still short out if it touches, just wrap some insulation tape round the wires, mine seemed to be stretched quite tight before i removed and re routed them after insulating them and all has been fine since.
one other thing is i had a similar fault with the drivers side indicators which turned out to be (as i think someone has already said) wet mud in the tow bar socket giving a low resistance resulting in very dim indicators, heating up of the flasher relay and eventual blowing of the fuse.
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mine did this and it was the wiring chaffing where it went across the body mounts on it's way to the bumper.
sometimes it would be fine then when driving it would rub and short blowing the fuse other times it would be fine for ages.
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almost certainly the cv joint not pulled all the way through the hub,i fitted a new cv after i bust one and it stopped turning right and when i rebuilt the hub it wouldn't pull right through as the neck of the cv was slightly thicker than the old one and the seal just inside the hub that the cv outer shaft goes through was too small, a different seal slightly larger allowed it to fully pull through and all is fine.
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it should do, when the car rolls it will turn the output flange and if the nut is attached to a socket and bar against the chassis the it won't turn hence undoing it. i just got my lad to hold the brakes whilst i pushed a ratchet with my foot to turn it.
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before buying it may be best to check up whether they changed the columns at all on the rangies, i can't remember what year the one i got was it was in a scrappy.
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i've heard that the anti freeze doesn't actually transfer heat away it is the water that's mixed with it that does that, it just stops that water from freezing and stops the engine from rusting inside, that's why putting too much anti freeze in is worse than the correct amount as it has less heat transference than the correct mix and will run hotter than it should..
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could also be the top swivel bearing, with the wheel off rock it back and forth and see if everything moves or if it's just the top of the hub assembly moving over the swivel
you will probably find the swivel leaking if it's this too.
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i exploded one of my cv joints at manby play day in feb, it didn't make any noise but wouldn't drive unless i had difflock on, i drove home 20 miles in difflock and just as i turned into my road the steering stopped turning right exactly the same as you describe although left lock was fine.
as i said it was totally silent no grinding etc.
does it drive without difflock engaged? if it doesn't but does with difflock engaged then it's almost definately a cv but if it drives without difflock then the cv isn't the problem.
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i used a couple of angle brackets i found in my shed, they would be the sort in most diy stores, 90 degree angle about 2" per side, welded to the exhaust pipe on the screen side that you can't see in the pics, it goes towards the door then into the door shut then drilled and riveted to the A pillar inside the door shut just like a safari one would be.
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easiest way is to cut out the rust and replace them with some box section 60mm x 120mm x 1440mm.
just cut off the old rot and jack the box up into place and weld it in, you'll never have to replace it again as it will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
follow this thread
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i think if each is rated at 2.5 tons then 4 should hold 10 tons between them.
wouldn't like to put that much on them though.
i await correction now though
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drain tubes from corners of sunroof, roof lining out i'm afraid.
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does the 2nd battery feed the aux box through the split charger? if so there may be a connection problem in there. can you wire the battery direct to the fuse box and only have the split charger connected to charge it?
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all i can say for definate is the engine mounts are in different places, don't know about the rest but i think the axles are ok and possibly gearbox as you can swap the props from 200 to 300.
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a southdown one is a 63mm bore pipe which is exactly the same as the one i have made myself for £20 and it runs and revs sweetly all through the rev range without any problems
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52657&st=0&p=474385&fromsearch=1entry474385
and whats this "orange" about?
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fabrication time i'm afraid, on the plus side it's steel up there so easy to weld in some new metal and refit the windows.
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200 has larger splined shaft than a 300. range rover classic will fit a 200 though. i had a rangie boss and a mountney wheel on my last 200.
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And Im looking for a td5 one,
I have a tdi one here.
swap?
i have a td5 one in my shed with brake light fittings if it's any good to you? kept it for my 300 but if it doesn't fit then i'll just bin it.
has a couple of spark marks in it but not bad enough to warrant a change.
am going to otley just north of leeds at the end of may to go on holiday so may be able to fit it in but can't guarantee that until the day before i travel with all luggage fitted in.
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arc eye, got it bad last night after an afternoon welding the wife's car, walk to hospital at 1am
still it'll all be worth it when the disco is all mine
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i used an old dv9 mount and drilled it straight through the roof,have a small springer aerial and it just bends back when encountering branches etc.
problem with lower mountings is the coil of the aerial needs to be above any surrounding metal or you can get bad swr reading.
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no wiring in chassis afaik, mine needed to have a crossmember replaced, the one that the rear seat belts attach to and some plates but once you get started it soon comes together, loads easier than a chassis swap.
if you get another chassis just cut off the bits you need for yours and weld them in.
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where are the pics then? have you taken them in a blizzard cos all i can see is white
Help with ignition switch wiring on a 300tdi
in Discovery Forum
Posted
just had a look at mine, the white plug is as i said just to the left of the flasher relay at the top right of the fuse box, there is a single blue ish wire plug above it and a multiplug with lots of wires below it,
of the 3 wires in the plug the yellow wire is top right connection, white/red is top left connection and the white wire is bottom left connection, there is nothing in the bottom right connection.
all these are as you look at them with the fuse cover down.
if you cannot find the wires or they have been unplugged then at least you should be able to wire another in if you follow the connections above.
if you can't see where it would be in the fuse box let me know and i'll take a pic tomorrow and post it for you.