sheathy

OK- problem not solved. New switch in place but no dice. Switch is working fine- but the lead for the lights in the position of the glow plug start and lights work. Glow plugs and respective wiring tested by attaching to first ignition position and all fine. Have had to put the battery on charge now pissing around for a few hours has drained it . Maybe a full battery is the answer... I have my doubts. So any ideas anyone? Tempting to wire in a high tolerance simple on off switch on a separate circuit and carry on as everything else is working. Voltmeter has just arrived as well but can't see that being helpful now as both switch and wiring is fine. I am confused. Many swear words.

Thanks for the detailed reply. One of my main reasons for discounting replacing the tyres on my current rims was I didn't know if tubeless could be refitted repeatedly for switching between winter and summer tyres each year, is this possible? A big part of the problem for me at the moment is knowing where to get stuff on a tight budget as I'm so new to the region and think that if I turn up to most places to get winter tyres fitted it will likely cost me an arm and a leg. BFG's maybe the best option by the sounds of it- and saves me having to worry each season. Thanks again.

Now that I'm living on the continent and the snow will be here soon I need to get winter tyres on my vehicle. It is ex MOD and therefore currently has tubeless wolf wheels for which I suspect tyres will be hellishly expensive (especially here in Geneva). Is it OK to put non- wolf wheels on my truck if I find a reasonably priced set with winter tyres fitted? If so what wheels would be an adequate replacement. Sorry if this is a bit of a dumb question but I'm still learning. Thanks

Hi all, thanks for all the input. Still waiting on ignition switch to arrive annoyingly- thanks for your kind offer mo murphy, annoyingly I had already ordered from paddock by the time i saw your post. I have very little chance of starting her without preheating the glowplugs it takes a dozen or so turns which is normally enough to put the battery in trouble. With glow plugs it starts instantly. Hopefully the part arrives soon as I it's only getting colder here.

Thanks- was just looking on the bay actually. Will get one ordered

OK thanks for the advice guys. Just had an investigative look and gained access to the ignition switch. As I know next to nothing about electrics I think your idea is best monkey. I may try and get hold of a voltmeter in the first instance though as it seems like a useful thing to have for next time something goes wrong. Plus getting any parts shipped to where I now live in france is bloody costly.

Thanks for the replies, was working as described by you, Western until I brought it across France, now neither the glowplugs or the light are working so it does sound like an ignition switch issue. Annoyingly I have no voltmeter with me to test it but would it be safe to remove the wires from the switch and short them just briefly to test there is current?

Do the NA engined defenders have a relay? I thought it was just down to the 1st ignition position hold. Can't identify a fuse for the plugs annoyingly, any ideas which one it might be?

OK next thing to go wrong with my 1995 110 2.5 na is the glow plugs have stopped working. The light isn't coming on to say they are heating either. Where is the best place to start looking to diagnose the problem? Cheers

Managed to replace the master and slave this weekend with a certain amount of swearing and bruised knuckles. But the good news is she's back on the road and the clutch is working perfectly. Master was pretty much seized and the rubber seal blown so looks like that was my issue. Pro tip for anyone changing their slave, just drop the exhaust to gain access. I didn't and I regretted it. Thanks for your advice everyone.

Cheers Simon, I've seen some say if you're changing the master it's also a good idea to change the slave at the same time, would you recommend this?

A few days ago the clutch on my 1995 110 lost pressure and won't shift gears e.t.c. I have inspected and there are no obvious leaks from the system and fluid level isn't down. If you pump the pedal for 30 seconds or so you get just enough pressure to shift if pedal fully depressed. Could it be a bleed is required or something more serious? Thanks in advance.

Great, thanks all. Will send you a message, Arjan.

The mrs has just been offered a job in France and we may well be facing a move to the continent in the near future. I was wondering if anyone had had any experience with importing their vehicle and registering it in France? It looks like it might be a serious mountain of paperwork to deal with not to mention very costly.