Landy7
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Posts posted by Landy7
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After a failed MOT I used a diesel anti-smoke additive and it worked fine 🤫
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If you're looking for tyres for both on and off road use, the BGF All Terrain KO2 comes up first in almost all reviews/tests.
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Do they even have RHD Defenders? 😁
Yes these Alpine/Pioneer units are expensive and I too doubted a lot but in the end, I wanted Apple CarPlay because it is such a huge benefit. The standard UI / operating system on these units are rubbish, always have and always will + they don't get updated so after a few years the look is so outdated. But then you plug in the iPhone (or Android phone) and BAM, Apple Carply or Android Car, a modern UI that looks super nice and best feature of them all, if they want to add features to for example CarPlay, you just get an new iOS version for your iPhone and next time you plug in the phone in the car, you get the updated CarPlay, your head unit doesn't need an update, everything is 'streamed' from your phone.
I once tried to use the Alpine without Apple CarPlay and damn, like I said, the look and feel of the standard UI is just rubbish, it already felt like a head unit from 5 years ago! And the worst part was, it doesn't have navigation built-in! So you need Apple CarPlay or Android Car for navigation
So they already knew that no one would use the unit with those 2..
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I have the Mud UK sub locker with the Phoenix Gold 10" subwoofer, 3in1 speakers at the back, composet at the front, JBL amplifier and the Alpine ilx-f903d 🤤 Love that Alpine, 9", Apple Carplay, rear view camera on it. The front and back speakers are pretty cheap, they sound good but no decent low so the Phoenix Gold subwoofer supplies the low, it doesn't bang all the doors loose but it just fills the 'room' with the missing low frequencies. It's also very neat tucked away under the cubby box and the cubby box now has the correct height.
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3 minutes ago, kevin50 said:
Do you mean Cable end ! Did try the Drill on end of cable and rpm,s did move on dash
No, I mean on the shaft of the speed sensor, to find out if the sensor works or not. What engine do you have? My td4 has the sensor in attachment, I've pointed out the shaft in red, put power drill on that and test.
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First things first, take the sensor out of the transfer box, remove the drive gear thingy in your picture and attach a power drill to the shaft of the sensor, if you let it rotate, the rpm's should go up on the dash, if they don't, the problem is not the transfer box, if they do, the problem is in the transfer box.
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34 minutes ago, Snagger said:
200Tdi era vehicles such as this do. 300Tdi late 1994 I think, and later don’t.
Ow, my bad, wrong info from my part then..
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5 hours ago, wanjoe said:
hi koen110... it seem that i have same problems that you have. do you mind to share what is the solution of this white smoke only on start ignition phase. is a bit annoying for me to see the white smoke coming out when i start my lovely 110.
Hi,
The solution is in my previous posts in this topic, it was the 60amp fuse for the glow plugs that was blown because the glow plug rail in the engine bay came in contact with the steel fuel line. So yes the glow plug light in the dash comes on when you turn the ignition key, but the glow plugs don't get any juice because the fuse is blown! Hence the difficult start and smoke.. I've secured the glow plug rail in the engine bay with a strap so it cannot come in contact with the steel fuel line anymore and replaced the 60amp fuse, it started a lot better! Still had some smoke but after a few times that was gone as well. To be sure changed the glow plugs as well but didn't make any difference.
Info on where you can find the fuse: https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/84217-Puma-Glow-Plug-Error-Code
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You never need spacers, but if you're going to switch from steel to alloy, you also need to replace the steel nuts by alloys.
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10 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
Why lift for road use???
Same question, lift for road use!? You are going to regret that..
I looked for new suspension for my Puma last month, still had the original ones. I looked at Bilstein, Koni & Fox. After looking at reviews & talking with mechanics I bit the bullet and went for the, more expensive, Fox shock absorbers. I reused the original springs, nothing wrong with them.
Handling is better and the puma takes the bumps and pots much better now, certainly at a speed (> 30mph), but don't expect a range rover! It's still a Defender.
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I'm fitting the hawk central locking kit in my 110 Puma as we speak, 2 doors done, 3 to go
Good and cheap solution if you want to install it yourself. It's a 2008 Puma so can't really help with the integration of the alarm..
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His last post described his fix:
"I cracked open each of the injectors in turn with the engine running with the rattle present, 2 of them appeared to change the tone of the rattle. When I tightened them all back up the rattle seemed to mellow and then disappear!!!"
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Yes, contact him directly, you will get a better price, I did the same. Very happy about it but that's mostly about the reduction in noise, since you already applied sound deadening matting, I'm not sure if it will make a big difference and how much room will be left between your knees and the steering wheel
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Check the glow plugs fuse ->
It's a know problem that the glow plug wire shorts with the steel diesel line and blows the fuse.
I had the same, but it's hard to notice, the glow plug indicator comes on as normal and goes off per normal after a few seconds, it's just a 'dumb' light, it doesn't check if the glow plugs work, resulting in smoke on start-up for a few minutes. I checked the glow plugs fuse, it was blown, replaced it, secured the glow plug wire and it starts perfect now without smoke!
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Mine didn't line up either, I used SikaFlex 221 sealant between roof and windscreen, looks and works perfect. In the factory they also used some kind of sealant no?
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I don't think that a jubilee clip will do, this is a pressure line right? I went out and took a pic of my setup, it was a 2.5TD and converted it to a 200TDI but kept the original fuel filter and lines, so I had the same problem as you. Went to a 'piping' specialist and he made this connection for me:
3 years on it and still no leak or anything.
//and yes, I went playing in the mud .. will clean soon 😐
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There is no RAL code for every mixture, so you won't find a RAL code for LRC325, the color code is ... LRC325. Again, find yourself a decent car paint shop and they will prepare you some LRC325 spray cans. I did the same, with another LRC code.
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Why do you need the RAL code? A decent car shop has enough info with "LRC325" and can mix you the color.
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In my opinion and experience, tires make a big difference!
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I just ran a new wire under the seal, works like a charm and less likely to break
Like this: https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/mot-defender-high-level-3rd-brake-light.135488/
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Put the transfer box gear in neutral 😁
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4 hours ago, Yostumpy said:
Mine was doing this a month back. I decided to fit new Lucas switch, as old one had done 180k, and was very floppy and wobbly. Also when on main beam, on a bumpy road, it would move, so that both main and dipped came on. Basically it was worn out, bit of a revelation fitting a new one, solid, and precise, and a positive click.
Thanks I just ordered a new Lucas switch because mine is indeed floppy, on a bumpy road my main beam went out sometimes!
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It's that time again! Topic revival!
I think it depends on the looks of the car and paint color, I'm having General Grabber TR's at the moment but will be swapped next week for the BFGoodrich AT KO2, white lettering in or out!? I'm leaning towards lettering in like it sits now..
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It's surely a sound that isn't supposed to be there! You've checked the valve clearance, but did you double checked the valve caps? They tend to break or crack.
Like this: 
What year was Keswick green introduced?! PHOTOS!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Looking at the external state of the vehicle my guess is that everything has been resprayed, including roof, wheel arches, front grill and headlamp panels.