citizen kane
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Posts posted by citizen kane
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This is my 130 with a Quadtec box on the back. Conversion hasn't started yet, still trying to decide on a sensible layout.
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How much do you sell the Corsa rotary switch controller for?
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I've done the Corsa C mod on a Series. To give you and idea of the output I measured the torque required to move the steering wheel while stationary and the assistance turned off, with 7.50 tyres it was about 35Nm, with the power steering turned up to maximum that dropped to 6Nm so somewhere around 25Nm of assistance is available.
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I think the Jake Wright installation is over 3K fitted, not sure if you get a new steering box for that or they fit to your existing one.
On 2/14/2022 at 10:49 PM, FridgeFreezer said:Bet that costs more than the £50 for an old EPAS column off eBay
Unfortunately cost have gone through the roof for these.
This Corsa EPAS for my Series conversion cost three times that, forgot to mention, loads of garage time as well.
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I moved the pipe forward on mine.
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You could try these people, https://www.par-group.co.uk/rubber-and-polyurethane/silicone-extrusions/
If you are feeling entrepreneurial it may be worth getting a quote for a bespoke extrusion , I got a quote for an industrial application, cant remember if it was from PAR but I was very pleasantly surprise by the cost. You need to pay for the tooling costs but the subsequent price per meter wasn't that much.
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I use an M8 shoulder bolt and a stack of wavy washers, still not brilliant but it stops the rattles.
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9 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
For now I'm using the std none servo master cylinder but once the rear disc brake conversion is done I will see how it goes and if needed I will buy a a better master cylinder and servo
Wow, no servo on discs, that must take a firm push to get anything happening.
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32 minutes ago, Red90 said:
You misunderstood what he wrote. That was not his top speed. That was his speed after accelerating a fixed, known distance.
As far as the math. 78/70 = 1.11 ==> 11%. Power increase if this was actually top speed is (78/70)^3 = 1.38. 38% increase in power. If 70 had been his top speed, his engine would have been broken. A standard Defender 300TDI should happily make 85 which requires 80% more power than 70.
I've not misunderstood, I wouldn't have a clue about how to calculate the power increase due to the improved acceleration, the claim was a 5% increase in top speed and as you point out that's a cubic rule so it does equate to around 16%
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I figure you are getting around a 16% increase in power to get a 5% increase in top speed, if correct that's very cheap horsepower.
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I'm a fiddler. I made this ages ago, I was always a little concerned about how hot the overdrives run so I thought I would replace the tin cover with an extended alloy cover to help get rid of some of the heat. The intention was to measure the temperatures to see if it made a difference then machine in fins as a final operation. Never got around to any of that, just put it on and ran with it. The plate sounded a little tinny so I added a mass damper, just an isolastic mount with a lump of steel. Then I brought a Romerdrive. Don't know if it did any good but it can't hurt.
Free to collect from Fleet in Hampshire. If you want me to send it to you it will be probably be about £5 P&P and £5 to bribe one of the kids to take it to the post office.
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No longer available.
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Having a bit of a clear out, was going to throw this out https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/quicker-steering.350293/ but thought it might be of some use to someone. Not really suitable for a road going vehicle. You get the arms and adaptor, think I've already taken the ball joints off.
You need to be able to collect from Fleet, Hants. Not interested in packing it up or sending it, its much easier for me to throw it in the recycling bin rather than chase it around the garage with random bits or cardboard and sticky tape then wait in for a courier who always turn up late.
Advertised on other forums as well. -
Its difficult to know where to stop, I would like to make the rear reasonably durable so I thought pegging then of course the two pin diff becomes the weak link, I figured an Ashcroft ATB is no more expensive than a 4 pin diff but its 24 spline so then I need Ashcroft half shafts, who makes EN26 10 / 24 half shafts?
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I've been thinking about getting just the rear done and an Ashcroft ATB fitted but then I need half shafts as well and the price ramps up pretty quickly.
Its on the wish list but so are a lot of things.
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On 3/21/2020 at 9:07 PM, Gazzar said:
1) I presume you've two wheel cylinders per back plate?
The route is, for a standard post rationalisation model. I think. Single line from PWDA to tee piece just behind no2 crossmember (with the steering relay in it).
From the Tee under the chassis, plastic clip, back to the brake pipe bracket.
From there is via Flexi hose to the little bracket on top of the swivel.
Form this you go to into the top cylinder (hole 1), out (hole 2) and on to the bottom cylinder(hole 3), and finally the bleed nipple (hole 4).
So, bleed nipple at the bottom, which is contra best practice, but there you go.
The near side is identical, except the pipe from the Tee goes along no 2 crossmember.
Hope you don't mind me asking, who pegged your diff's?
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This is the same setup in an Series 3, type 50 servo, Series master cylinder with a standard wing cut. Also pics of the adaptor plate.
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There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about swapping to a coil sprung servo. I've recently been through the same process.
You can fit a type 50 Defender pedal box and servo to a Series but you will need some mods. The top of the servo tower may clash with the bonnet and it can easily be trimmed away for clearance. The pedal needs to be slightly shortened and reangled to match the Series but the biggest issue will be the need for a significant wing / mudshield cut, the Defender pedal box sits the master cylinder much further forward. I made all the mods then decided I didn't want the additional cuts.
You cant just bolt the type 50 servo to the Series tower, stud pattern dosnt match. I needed to made an adaptor plate about 15mm thick to place the Series pedal in the correct position and you will need to turn up an adaptor to link the Series pedal to the fork end of the type 50 servo and also slightly reduce the thickness of the existing bush in the Series pedal. Next problem is clearance around the steering box, its going to be tight and I cant say for sure if its going to fit, I did some steering mods at the same time so mine isn't standard, at the very least you will need to rotate the column on the steering box. Its worth noting that the larger servo that Haystee supply is designed for a left hand drive vehicle, it has a cutout on the servo flange presumably to clear the steering box, off course its on the wrong side for a right hand drive vehicle.
I can link you to another website where I compared the two pedal boxes.
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Series worm isn't that hard, picture shows one where I have taken a skim off the outside to get it running true to the bearing journals, spline wast overly difficult to cut with HSS.
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Not on a Series 3 gearbox. As you say, the length of the 2nd and 3rd gear bushes are adjusted to give the required end float for each gear. Once these bushes are assembled they are retained by the wretched C clip and the overall end float of the assembled bushes is adjusted via a combination of the 7 available sizes of thrust washers. The main shaft nut reacts on the 1st, 2nd syncro hub and the splined 1st gear bush locking that assembly in place, it dosnt influence the float on the 2nd and 3rd gear bushes.
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Just done my mainshaft, same thing occurred to me, nothing pegs the plain bush. Doing up the main shaft nut has no influence on the bushes as the end float is set by thrust washers, I couldn't see anything in the parts book to peg this bush so I assume its free to rotate.
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You could fit one of these
Unlike the Series tap it bypasses the matrix.
Nice camper, but .......
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks for the links and the ideas. I'm still undecided what I'm going to be using this thing for. Still trying to absorb as much information as possible, what seems likely is I'm unlikely to get it right first time.
Whichever way I go this is going to have to be very much a budget build so it's going to use the box as is, and I still can't make my mind up if I can tolerate sleeping in a box on springs.