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Chambo110

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Posts posted by Chambo110

  1. Boost controller fitted. 

    see what you mean Mo  .. how easy is that now.

    rod set back to standard, FIP not touched. Boost now is 14psi at approx 3000rpm in 3rd flooring it up the best hill I could find on this snooker table I live on.

    feels sooo much better. 

    thanks all for tips, pics and links

     

    • Like 2
  2. 1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:

    Not at all. The other chap's come with free rust. Nick really does know his stuff

    Something else to check.  It is possible for the boost pipe that runs to the diaphragm to suck up excess oil (if overfilled) and to dump it in the 'pot' under the diaphragm. It will give the same power issues as you are experiencing...

    ...it's also possible to get a blockage or accidental crimp in the pipe

    Just work through the whole system - check nothing is seized or blocked, before you move anything else

     

    Can’t remember what I paid now to be honest 

    quality was very good though.

    checked that pipe for kinks and blockages.. all seems good.

     

    Manual boost control just arrived . Rod set back to original position. Gonna leave it til tomorrow now.. weather permitting. 
    spent today reading through mo’s link and watching numerous vids

    cheers all 

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. 13 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

    Chambo,

    You need to be accelerating hard when you setting the max boost pressure as you are setting maximum boost. Most of the time driving you won't be anywhere near it.

    Stop mucking (with an F ) about with the control arm and get yourself a valve! It is soooooo much easier to adjust.

    Lastly in the nicest possible way, if you don't understand what you are doing then do some research. Understand what boost is and what it does and how the boost compensation system works THEN you can make informed decisions yourself on what adjustments to make rather than asking and hoping. It really is quite simple !

    Good luck with it 👍

    Mo

    Mo

    waiting for valve to arrive. 

    Played around with rod before your original input about the valve 

    It might be my wording,  I was accelerating hard. Got 2 about 2500rpm in 4th uphill albeit a very small incline, then floored it, Max boost each time was as mentioned 10. I just expected a little more from the rod adjustments

     

    Cheers 

  4. 2 minutes ago, reb78 said:

    Weird. So your fuelling is already set to more than standard. 
     

    what was your boost when u started fiddling? 

    I done 1 full twist of the rod and went for drive gauge was showing 9 I think 

    done another 2 full twists test drive showed 10

    2 more twists and still showing 10.

    if I Rev and accelerate hard it may go to 11 for a split second

    thats as far as I have gone coz I bottled it in case engine blew up 😂

  5. 24 minutes ago, Jon W said:

    Have you got the old pin still? Try putting that back in with it facing the front of the vehicle so the fuel pins gets most travel. Then see how it goes. If it solves your issues to will know it is the boost pin setup is what you need to play around with and the preload of that. 

     

     

    Jon .. eeerrr not sure.. I’ll check tomorrow 

     

    reb .. yep cut out facing forward 

  6. 24 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said:

    Christ, you paid his prices!!! 

     

    If I was you, pull the diaphragm out, the plastic collar (mines in long term storage in the hedge out the front of the house) and then move the throttle lever to the full loud position and see if the little pin shoots out in the hole. If it does then something is amiss somewhere. If it doesnt, that's why it's not going as well as you would like.

    Ooops ? Was I robbed then ?

     

    I took plastic spacer out and put in one of the lose mysterious safe places ??

    I know the little pin your on about. I pulled diaphragm out a couple days ago. Then took throttle linkage off to see if the baby pin moved by hand .. it did

    didnt think to try moving the throttle lever 🙈

    if it moves by hand I’m assuming it WILL move with the lever ?? Yay or nay ?

  7. 3 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said:

    It needs more fuel chucking though it, so as Richard has said pull the diaphragm and move the cone so the steepest bit faces forwards. 

     

    Dont worry about EGTs yet, you wont overly affect them until you mess with the max filling screw on the back of the pump.

    I’ve not got the cone shaped pin anymore, I have steggys pin and spacer ring 

     

    I do panic about blowing things up.. it’s been sat on drive long enough while I repair and tart it up.. I really don’t wanna be rebuilding an engine. 😂

  8. 41 minutes ago, reb78 said:

    Trouble is its also related to fuelling, so if yours is fuelled differently to Ralph then I dont think you can compare the wategate directly. 
     

    Personally I would look at rotating your boost pin in the pump to increase fuelling on boost. The deeper the conical part of the pin that points forward the more fuel you will add. Black smoke under boost is bad so back it off if that happens. 

    Good point.. need to confirm boost gauge working properly and giving correct readings first 

    will do that in morning 

    cheers 👍

  9. 38 minutes ago, western said:

    Just by adjusting the wastegate actuator rod, my FIP is at standard factory setting.

    Hmmmm?

    I done 5 full rotations of rod now no Fip adjustments from how I found it, and it’s barely showing over 10psi. Probably got approx 6-7mm of thread left from memory.

    i worry about going much further without an egt gauge.

    rpm now fitted and working but I need to get that synced properly. ( no timing light)

    got the throttle cable adjusted so ticking nice n slow without being too close to stall and set rpm gauge at 850ish

    2500rpm on dual carriageway in 4th foot to floor and boost shoes 10-11max ..

     

    do I just need to be brave and add a couple more turns to rod or be safe and get egt fitted and boost gauge checked to make sure it’s reading correct 

    I have checked for leaks with soapy water and nothing that I can see 

     

    thanks 

     

  10. Ok .. advice taken 2 for proflow 1 for blue bag

    proflow ordered 

     

    2 minutes ago, cackshifter said:

    If you buy Proflow don't be surprised if it comes in a britpart box.

    I hope not now I just ordered.. used Rebs link for lrdirect 

  11. So, for those that have replied to my boost adjustment post will now know I have a more urgent issue 

    water pump

    i have a dribble from the tell tale hole underneath 

    see pic

    question is where to get a replacement.

    prices vary massively.. blue bag stuff seems like a no no unless I fancy doing it again in a month

    anyone got any recommendations??

     

    thanks

     

    54142C12-BF61-4056-B26C-A3C65DD93B81.jpeg

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