Leclance

Ah , I see what you mean , so I don’t mean the high low diff selector I mean the front of the transfer box were the diff selector connects too . I’ll post some pictures tomorrow .

On the current positioning the transfer box is 2-4 inches further forward towards the front . The gearbox ends further forward than the old N/A manual gearbox . So the engine is further forward but I don’t know how the length of the v8 compares to the length of the N/A . There is a noticeable difference in the space between the bulkhead and the engine . However there still looks like plenty of space between the pulleys and the radiator . I‘lol get a new radiator as the old N/A one isn’t ok to use and see if any of the pipe work fits which will be my next challenge if the engine is to far forward .

Any advise is welcome

So I’m turns out if you adopt two little girls you don’t get time to go play building your defender for a couple of years. I have finally rebuilt the bulkhead and remounted it. Started putting components back on the bulk head and engine/gearbox/transfer box etc. Turns out i really should have checked the drive shafts still mount on teh hand brake and front of the transfer box before i welded the engine mounts in place. Looks like the brackets i have used moved the transfer box forward by 2-4 inches, the rear drive shaft is to short and the front one is now to long. I’m fooling myself and hoping there is a solution that doesn’t involve be taking the engine and gearbox out and finding the right brackets and re welding the engine mounts . Also tried to put the seat box on and the high low diff selector is too high and/or too far forward so it hits the seat box just below the handbrake handle. And some good news ……..I need to find some good news.

Yep , sJust got it sort and yes it’s a replacement . Now I just need one asap

Morning While camping my 5 yr old daughter managed to snap of the wiper controls arm on the steering column , does anyone know if it is designed to break under extreme pressure and if it can be refitted . I’m taking it all apart tomorrow to find out but thought I’d ask first . Will post a picture shortly .

Honestly , I don’t know I’m taking a punt as I have no reference to tell me the clearance I need . Definitely concerned but I guess I will find out soon enough when I finish the other 3000 jobs left to do .

Yep so it all fitted together fine , lesson learnt don’t by britpart bushes . The bearmach ones where just fine .

And here is the diameter of the new bush I have bought from bearmach before I have pressed it into the casing . as you can see the bush fits over the shaft nicely . Will be interesting to see if the bush inner diameter is affected by the process of pressing it into the casing .

Then I have measured the shaft outer diameter

So I have made some more progress on this (or am making ) . I have measured the new Brit part bushes internal diameter.

As they didn't come back out in one piece I have ordered some genuine ones and will try that. If not ill get someone with a lathe to open them up for me. let you know how that goes.

Bushes, Bearings, oil seals, gaskets and Rust , yes was all working. I will need to change the shaft (not the CV joints are the inner teeth are worn) but wanted to resolve this one first.

I am struggling finding the right part number for the bush I need to resolve the problem above. Does anyone know the part number i need. the one shown above is this part -- Stub Axle Inner Bronze Bush (Britpart) FRC4319 which has the small inside diameter.

Yes looks like you are spot on the inner diameter of the bush is less than the diameter of the cv joint so it doesn’t slide over it . Thanks for advice

I have replaced the brass bushes but they seem fully home .

Can any one help with this . When I fit the stub axle the pivot housing will only swivel about ten degrees each way , it’s as if the Uj and drive shaft are not going far enough into the centre diff .

Thought I’d drop in an update on progress as it’s been a while

Hope that helps ?

I recall the alternator goes up here on the same bracket as the aircon and tensioner Middle one is the water pump and fan and dizzy housing Power steering pump has a surrounding bracket , I skipped painting the steering pump , regret that now I think thats gonna have to come of.

This is where I think the aircon would mount , mine didn't have aircon it also mounts the tensioner

ok sound advice thanks

sorry just read this , ill get a picture later for you. Mine is an odd engine it seems to be oen of teh later intermediary engines that were only used for a short time in 1994.

I think it is this one that I am after but.i may be wrong, ill privately message you.

I have now replace the gearbox cross member, cut out the engine brackets and cleaned and painted. I did the second coat of red oxide and painted the chassis with a black chassis paint I have replaced the transfer/ gearbox brackets. Annoyingly I can't find the drivers side engine bracket, I can't believe I wouldn't have kept it that would have been madness , although strip down of the Discovery donor vehicle did involve a lot of alcohol. If anyone has one they don't want can you pm me and let me know how much you want for it. I was going to test mount the engine and tack on the engine mounts but without that bracket I'm stuck for now. I have turned my attention to the power steering which seems like a sensible next step. So I have both the discovery and defender units and associated pipework, both need the seals doing, so before I buy a repair kit is there any advice on which pump I should use. Obviously the pipe work from the discovery will be the best choice due to the pump position on the engine.