L90-v8
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Posts posted by L90-v8
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this is a 3.9 serp mount part no err4514
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this is a gems mount you might have a thor alternator mount
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as long as the sensor has the correct temperature settings on and off it don't matter where you put it I personally prefer the top but that's my preference
22 hours ago, L90-v8 said:ive only ever come across an used top hose fan switches if the x eng switch is designed as a bottom hose switch an comes on at a lower temp all should be good but if you fit a higher temp switch from say a fiesta an put that in the bottom hose its gonna cook
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4 hours ago, Snagger said:
Completely wrong. The fan switch goes in the bottom hose so that the fan is only triggered if the rad needs assistance. Having it in the top hose means the fan will run continuously as soon as the engine warms up, and will do so for some considerable time after shutting down, flattening the battery. Only thermostatic switches for aircon booster fans and compressor clutches go in the top line, usually in the themostat housing or elbow, and they are set at much, much higher temperatures looking at engine temperature, not incoming coolant temperature.
my sensor is in stat elbow an works perfectly fine it will get up to temperature without the fans coming on early an certainly don't keep going an flattening my battery it cuts in an out as necessary in traffic
I guess its each to there own where you put it I have put the sensor in the top for years an will carry on doing it this way as I have never had a issue most of the standard factory cars ive had have also been installed this way until they started controlling the fan via the ecu
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16 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
If the radiator is sub-spec it will still over heat even if you had no stat in it.
Just need Simon from X-eng to wade in on the fan switch as he produced them to fit in the bottom hose.
If you think about it, if the radiator is way over capacity, then there is no point switching a fan on because the engine is at 90C when the water coming out the radiator is at 40C.
I understand if the rads not upto the job its never going to keep cool
ive only ever come across an used top hose fan switches if the x eng switch is designed as a bottom hose switch an comes on at a lower temp all should be good but if you fit a higher temp switch from say a fiesta an put that in the bottom hose its gonna cook I would have thought a switch set to 88 should be in the top
from what I read his fan is not coming on till past 100 deg that indicates to me the switch is either faulty or set incorrectly or not designed to be in the bottom hose or the temperature gauge is not reading correctly
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2 hours ago, Jon W said:
I already have the standard expansion bottle setup from the series 3 which when pressure builds lets waters into the expansion bottle. so I don't see how the pipe indicated would work by putting that into the overflow pipe, as it will constantly overflow from the system surely as there will be a constant flow as the system is no longer sealed/pressurised.Or have I got the wrong idea about the pipe indicated.
Thanks
Jon
ahh soz I get what you mean theres a pipe blanked off on the inlet manifold i should have read correctly I think mine is piped up from the inlet manifold to the top o/s/f corner of the rad
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Just now, L90-v8 said:
fitting a lower degree stat wont change the capacity of a cooling system at all but fitting a cooler stat it will open sooner reducing the temperature the hoter stats are designed to keep the temps up reducing emmisions
fitting the fan temp sensor in the bottom cold hose is madness every vehicle I know of has the sensor in the top of the rad or in the stat housing
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fitting a lower degree stat wont change the capacity of a cooling system at all but fitting a cooler stat it will open sooner reducing the temperature the hoter stats are designed to keep the temps up reducing emmisions
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4 hours ago, Arjan said:
You better get an IR gun to test the temperature as the gauge could be wrong..
absolutely agree
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also you don't need to modify the rad you can use the overflow pipe by the rad cap an put it into a expansion bottle/ expansion tank
when the coolants hot it will expand into the bottle via the rad cap when the coolant cools down the coolant will go back into the radiator keeping the radiator full at all times
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your switch for the electric fan needs to be in the top hose or in the top of the manifold because the bottom hose is cold and the top hose is hot
also you can fit a 82 degree stat that will help keep her cool
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get a pic of the front end of the engine theres so many different serp front ends you never know if someones changed it from original
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i have them fitted on the disco an not fitted on the 90 had no issues either way both are used on and off road
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2017 plans were to finish the v8 conversion get the 90 on the road make it all one colour and enjoy it
it all started well mot'd early jan sorted out some teething troubles pas not working and suspension ridiculously stiff it now handles an drives like a dream just paint to sort I thought after a long laning trip I decided 3.5 wasn't enough and the lucas dizzy was letting me down so a 4.6 on megasquirt is on the 2017 to do list
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theres another option keep your na diesel transfer/gearbox mounts keep the original props the original floor pan and original seat box bolt the box in an weld the tdi engine mounts to suit its probably not the right way to do it but I did the v8 conversion that way an got away with it all my electrics an hoses reached and I even had enough room to fit a genuine round type air filter behind the engine
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in theory if you fit 300 tdi props and use 300 tdi transferbox/gearbox mounts the engine should be in the correct place if you go on Richards chassis website an click defender I'm sure there is pics of all the different types of mounts and where they are if you know someone with a late defender genuine workshop manual there should be chassis measurements in there
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ive never done it myself but it should fit as 300 tdi and td5 defenders used r380 gearboxs and they had a long bell housings like a discovery the 200 disco conversion is a bit more involved as the disco an defender use different parts its still a straight forward job if something don't fit get the welder out
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why don't you remove the rear 3 bolt diff an fit a 4bolt diff they are easy to get hold of and fit a set of defender 300 tdi props
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my 1999 disco is on a classic policy
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now you mention it I think I saw that too
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thanks for all the input so far
I'm leaning towards a ms2 if the 8 will run just that little sweeter I don't mind a little bit more agro/effort if the results are better will the ms2 run a 3 pin bosch thor type idle control
nige your input is welcome as I will be purchasing all this from you anyway it was your website that brought me here an join to find out the info I need im a complete efi novice any input is helpful
feel free to pm me with any suggestions even if its your opinion I'm willing to listen I will be making a call to you soon once I get my head round what I want
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I think there must be a cable missing to connect the magic eye to the ignition amp my amp was bolted directly to the side of the dizzy body with a tiny plug connecting it up plug my disco has a large waterproof plug on the side of the dizzy an the amp is located on the front panel with a loom joining the two together neither of my dizzys have that type of plug are the insides original?
the ignition amp wires go to the coil I think ones white and the other is white and black
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13 hours ago, Quagmire said:
Changing maps is not needed in reality, you just tune one for best power, which will usually also give you best economy if you can control your right foot
that's really hard to keep off the loud pedal when the eight sounds so nice
Serp v8 Alternator Differences...
in International Forum
Posted
just noticed your got thor rocker covers the jems filler cap is n/s the thor is o/s