CharlieB

I got a couple from this supplier https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143374333297 The plugs are on ebay as well

I don't have aircon, so as a quick fix, I will just put a feed on the aircon ecu input to up the revs a bit. I will be able to play with the revs as much as I want with the Speeduino installed.

Something to bear in mind, Using good quality non flammable loom tape, and binding the wires nice and tight, is more than just cosmetic. I used to run an Auto electrical company in Birmingham, and so got to see the results of loads of electrical shorts. If the wires are loose taped, or even worse, loose in plastic conduit, the burn will travel right through the loom making a right mess, as there is plenty of oxygen. If the loom is tight, you usually get just one burnt wire, and not too much mess.

FridgeFreezer, probably something else is causing this glitch, but I'm in the process of installing a Speeduino system now, so not really worth spending time on it!

That's the whole point of my post, it is causing me a problem.

I've checked and cleaned all the breathers. My query is that the ecu is requesting a lower rpm figure in drive than in park, which seems back to front. If I activate the aircon input, I get a revs increase as expected.

I think the exhaust manifolds are the decider for me. I'm going to go for a pair of the VW coil pack with the integral modules, as I won't be running an EDIS unit. They use the same plug cables as the later V8 engine with the 4mm terminals.

smallfry, they would be a bit close, would probably need a heatshield. I'm still looking around, the Mazda MX8 ones look interesting with drivers built in. I have a good bulkhead high up just under the bonnet, but the leads would be a bit long.

I will probably end up with pair of coil packs at the back of the engine, probably the least wet area! and some good quality plug leads.

My pickup has a very open engine compartment, no inner wings, so it gets rather wet in there. getting rid of the dizzi will make the biggest improvement, but it would be nice to remove the HT leads altogether.

Somebody has used these Ford DG508 units for a F150 4.6 lite V8 on a Datsun head. They look like they would fit with a support bracket. Also very cheap. They would need a drive module to power them.

Yes, normally on DOHC engines with plenty of room in the centre of the head. There are American V8's with coil on plugs, and one of the late BMW V8 Range Rover engine has them. I have found ones with cranked ends that might work.

Just starting a Speeduino install on a 3.9 engine. Has anyone tried coil on plug modules on this engine. I was thinking of the Bosch /Audi ones, but I think they will probably foul each other in the centre two plug positions. I will go for the VW style packs with built in igniters otherwise, but it would have been good to get rid of the HT leads altogether as the vehicle is an offroad pickup. Are there any short stubby units available? Regards Charles

Yes, I know, my query is that the ecu is calling for 700rpm idle in Park/Neutral, but it calls for 600rpm when I put it into drive/reverse. Surely it should try to increase the idle in drive to compensate for load?

Hi all, I have a query regarding the idle control on a 14CUX system I am having the age old problem of sometimes stalling when going into drive or reverse. i have carried out all the usual stuff like air leaks/blockages, idle valve clean, timing, base idle speed etc. But I have noticed something odd. If I use Rovergauge to monitor the system, in Park/neutral the target idle is 700rpm, and when I select drive or reverse, the target idle drops to 600rpm, that seems back to front to me. If I break the auto box wire to the ecu and ground it so it thinks its in neutral, it works better. Any ideas? Regards Charles