paul stage1v8
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Posts posted by paul stage1v8
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yes they are basically the same engine block so bolt patterns are the same
is your pump in the tank or on the chassis? an in tank pump is easiest, just use an early disco/ RR pump (tank as well if yours doesnt take a pump) and an efi filter.
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I think he is talking about the link which comes off the bottom of #14 onto the operating lever from the box, the u shaped piece?
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or cut the hole to match the vents and make some packing for the vents, I used some insertion rubber
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easiest way is bolt in a disco front axle
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You have checked all the bushes and the swivel bearings? Wheel alignment?
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is that for the 100" then Dave?
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longer wheelbase can be an advantage, especially with weight transfer going up or down hills, though not so good over crests, also often with a longer wheelbase the front axle may be through a softspot before the rear goes in so you dont lose traction on both axles.
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slightly off the rest of the topic but my battery box keeps on getting full of mud/carp and i was wondering how much breathing the box needs? there are a couple of holes that need plugging and some of it i think needs sealent on it. but will this make it over heat?
I dont think heat is the main problem but more to allow gasses to escape and acid if spilt.
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I would like to try an air pressurised dissy, some claim that to work well.
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I have disco seats, tried Rangies but they were too high.
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I find Keith Gotts very good for sending parts overseas to me, though they prefer not to use paypal but any credit card will do, google will find their website.
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mine whines or whirrs quite loudly, have been thinking how to insulate it more, was thinking maybe a tinny holder, those foam rubber jobbies for holding your drink can without warming it, or something like that, but wondered if it would overheat?
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the dome nuts would probably be available in stainless from a bolt supplier or marine store.
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The tombraider 110 had a tidy solution
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The salisbury is a heavier duty diff than the rover diff which is probably what he meant. There is a heavy duty salisbury also, which I believe has heavier axle tubes but internally is the same, very rare though, as far as I know only used on the armoured 110.
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Well, yes, big clunk! I just bought a truck, which has the clunk every time you switch gears, unless you're really careful.
I removed the propellor, and the flange that sits on the drive pinion. The pinion just dropped inside the casing - you can wobble it with two fingers, half inch, up-and-down. I haven't opened the whole thing, but it seems that the pinion bearings are gone.
I have no idea how the poor thing could even drive as it did. I would imagine that broken bearings would produce a lot of crushed metal that would inevitably jam the pinion/crownwheel and get the whole thing stuck. But it didn't happen.
I am wondering if the pinion & the crownwheel will have to be replaced now?
Another silly question: can you pull the diff from the casing while it's on the truck? It looks like it could be possible to remove the cover from the diff's back, pull the shafts from the hubs and take the diff out.
/Jaroslav
If you have removed the drive flange from the pinion, taken the big nut off the pinion will move as that has removed the preload from the bearings.
You may be able to get the diff carrier out when you have removed the rear cover but you will need a housing spreader to put it back in correctly.
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Technically it is not a defender, just a 90/110. If it is a 90 the diff from the disco is a straight swap, on a 110 it has a salisbury which has a shorter driveshaft than you would need with the disco diff, the disco diff is possibly also not strong enough for a 110, although they are all the same ratios.
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I am using the 94 disco front pipes and manifolds in my 110, but had to use the disco crossmember to get clearance for the front pipes, they tuck up nicely between the chassis rails
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Anybody know if its possible with the LSE motor? Is the front of the crank long enough? Is there a front cover available that will fit?
Any help/advise appreciated.
Cheers.
Steve.
The interim front cover from a 3.9 disco, 94, 95 will fit with the shorter crank nose, thats what my 3.9 is, the crank pulley is shorter than the vee belt type. The only problem is the interim motors which had the shorter length crank nose did have a longer keyway to drive the oil pump, so you will need to lengthen the keyway.
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If you remove the engine mounts from a V8 chassis, rangie, disco, 110, doesnt matter, they go in the same place on all the chassis, the bracing web up against the spring perch. I had to change mine when I found the 'V8' replacement chassis I bought had diesel mounts on it.
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Old tyres or new tyres, when it does let go completely you wont be going anywhere, hopefully you will be close to home not out on a track somewhere.
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Early rangerovers had a different drop arm for a manual box. 110 should be interchangeable, manual and PS. I am using a disco drop arm for my 110, will make something for moving the steering damper later, have the disco axle as well now.
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as you were informed on the previous thread, there is only one panhard rod length for all 90/110/ disco/ RRclassics, and yes it is about 82.2 cm c/c
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most likely time for gearbox bearings
3.5 carbs to 3.9 EFI
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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he could but it seems he wants EFI, I am using carbs on mine as my lpg setup is for carbs and I dont want the electronics.